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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
TE630 new to me - build thoughts?
- Thread starter SimpleOne
- Start date
Well, looks like I'm joining the club of TE630's with worn countershafts 
Now, I'm no mechanic, but I'm guessing this isn't desirable:
And yes, yes I know, that was the most exciting 40 seconds you've had in your life, but no, no you cannot have them back!
Here's some pictures of the actual splines:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/u3kvwtws7a2g388/VZ2qgz6F2U
Any idea how complex the process is to replace the countershaft yourself?
Looking at how worn the shaft is its got me thinking that I should open up the gearbox and check the internal gears. The wear on this shaft might have accounted for the jolt I felt in the driveline whilst going for my quick test ride. I've got new clutch cup washers on the way from Dan (Indy Unlimited on ADVRider) so it looks like everything is going to be coming apart!
Now, I'm no mechanic, but I'm guessing this isn't desirable:
And yes, yes I know, that was the most exciting 40 seconds you've had in your life, but no, no you cannot have them back!
Here's some pictures of the actual splines:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/u3kvwtws7a2g388/VZ2qgz6F2U
Any idea how complex the process is to replace the countershaft yourself?
Looking at how worn the shaft is its got me thinking that I should open up the gearbox and check the internal gears. The wear on this shaft might have accounted for the jolt I felt in the driveline whilst going for my quick test ride. I've got new clutch cup washers on the way from Dan (Indy Unlimited on ADVRider) so it looks like everything is going to be coming apart!
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
That sucks. How many miles are on that bike, for the record?
This is not a problem isolated to Huskies, it can (and does) happen to lots of bikes. It's still a huge bummer that you have to deal with this on a bike you just bought, though.
How many miles are on that bike, for the record?This is not a problem isolated to Huskies, it can (and does) happen to lots of bikes. It's still a huge bummer that you have to deal with this on a bike you just bought, though.
Yeah, I totally agree. I'm not blaming Husqvarna particularly, more the lack of a cush hub or sprocket from the get go when dual sport riding is the likely cause so far as I can see. I don't know a great deal about the bikes background, but my understanding is this:
15428 km's
Mostly dual sport use (big trip from Melbourne up to the top of Cape York in Australia, via the deserts - probably a 4 to 4.5 thousand mile round trip and I know he went via the old Telegraph Track, which has it's moments...)
Weekend use as a big bore trail bike.
No real commuting kilometers etc.
Most of it's use has been in pretty hostile environments with minor loading (apart from from the rider).
I can't say it was totally unexpected, I read enough before buying the bike to know it was a risk. You win some, you lose some. I'm hoping the engine compression and gearbox internals check out alright, if they do, then I can live with replacing the driveshaft. I'll build it back up around a Kush Sprocket (45t) and probably a Rad Mfg Signature cush hub (http://www.radmfg.com/Signature-Series-HUB-SET-125-up-p/radh-ec-1.htm) as I'm building it for dual sport use and pavement is an unfortunate reality...
15428 km's
Mostly dual sport use (big trip from Melbourne up to the top of Cape York in Australia, via the deserts - probably a 4 to 4.5 thousand mile round trip and I know he went via the old Telegraph Track, which has it's moments...)
Weekend use as a big bore trail bike.
No real commuting kilometers etc.
Most of it's use has been in pretty hostile environments with minor loading (apart from from the rider).
I can't say it was totally unexpected, I read enough before buying the bike to know it was a risk. You win some, you lose some. I'm hoping the engine compression and gearbox internals check out alright, if they do, then I can live with replacing the driveshaft. I'll build it back up around a Kush Sprocket (45t) and probably a Rad Mfg Signature cush hub (http://www.radmfg.com/Signature-Series-HUB-SET-125-up-p/radh-ec-1.htm) as I'm building it for dual sport use and pavement is an unfortunate reality...
SilverBullet
Husqvarna
AA Class
Are you sure that your play is not due to a worn out CS sprocket? I can't get the photos large enough to tell for sure but it looks like your shaft splines are fairly uniform from inside to outside edge. The sprocket/spline wear if any should only be on the inner area of shaft where contact is made.
_
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Here you go, some better photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/00p0fxnrsou9895/Lx8taBeBJj
The wear definitely looks like it is on the countershaft to me, and basically the whole way along the splines as well. Given how loose the CS Sprocket was, it makes sense that it would be moving back and forth along those splines and wearing them everywhere, though there is a very slight bias towards the outside where the circlip goes on.
Splines on the CS Sprocket look fine, as do the teeth.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/00p0fxnrsou9895/Lx8taBeBJj
The wear definitely looks like it is on the countershaft to me, and basically the whole way along the splines as well. Given how loose the CS Sprocket was, it makes sense that it would be moving back and forth along those splines and wearing them everywhere, though there is a very slight bias towards the outside where the circlip goes on.
Splines on the CS Sprocket look fine, as do the teeth.
Here's a link to the whole album of pictures:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/3yhki4labtpbte4/rh25T2acnI
Today's post though is just some pics of the clutch stuff. Looks like some things have been gone mildly astray, it looks to me like the back of the clutch basket has been rubbing on other gears, but probably not to badly I suppose, but I'm not sure if it's normal. Some questions based on these photos though....
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ytbsb6oikbrzteq/NDK5PQ0aOU
Any idea why the springs would have mis-aligned/popped out from the basket they way have?
Clutch cup washers don't look too bad, though some are very thin. I have Dan's washers on the way, so I'll mod them no matter what since I have it all out. Is the wear on the 'spring retaining flange' (no idea what it's really called) of the clutch basket from the springs actually an issue?
Similarly, is the wear on the arms that align and hold the clutch plates an issue?
I assume it would make the clutch notchy as the plates aren't free to slide apart/together as easily, but; how much can be taken off the side of the arms when smoothing them out?
(i.e. is there an issue of potentially introducing to much play in the system by shaving too much off).
Engine with clutch cover removed and clutch basket taken off:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/hsyj69iho84jwbg/AnXSWYulaU
Engine with ignition cover removed and the stator out:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/oya1mbr2xiljujr/iQT7U87rjI
I'm going to grab some other pictures of other bits as I progress through cleaning and rebuilding stuff. Sorry this is going to be a slow and not very structured thread as I don't have particularly clear or specific goals (or knowledge) to do some detailed write up or how-to's.
My really basic thoughts on removing the engine covers are:
Note that not all the bolts are the same length, so make sure you know where to put them back into. The longer ones go through the bushing sleeves, and on the ignition cover, the shortest on goes in on the top edge, at corner of the narrowest part of the cover.
You might be able to avoid destroying the gasket when removing the cover, but frankly if you're going to the trouble of pulling all this apart, I'd be prepared to replace the gaskets as well.
I separated the cover from the flange by gently tapping upwards and inwards on the base of the gasket (the clutch cover though wasn't as resistant and could actually just be pulled off by hand, but the ignition cover needed some coercing). That is to say, I was trying to tap the cover away from the flange as perpendicularly as possible, but in reality there is some inwards angle as well. Make sure you do this in a few spots around the cover until it is loose enough to be wobbled off, don't just whale away on part of the cover, try and keep it as square to the flange as possible as you remove it. Be careful about trying to lever/pry it apart by jamming something into the gap between the cover and the flange, you run the risk of either cracking the cover or marring the mating surface on the flange.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/3yhki4labtpbte4/rh25T2acnI
Today's post though is just some pics of the clutch stuff. Looks like some things have been gone mildly astray, it looks to me like the back of the clutch basket has been rubbing on other gears, but probably not to badly I suppose, but I'm not sure if it's normal. Some questions based on these photos though....
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ytbsb6oikbrzteq/NDK5PQ0aOU
Any idea why the springs would have mis-aligned/popped out from the basket they way have?
Clutch cup washers don't look too bad, though some are very thin. I have Dan's washers on the way, so I'll mod them no matter what since I have it all out. Is the wear on the 'spring retaining flange' (no idea what it's really called) of the clutch basket from the springs actually an issue?
Similarly, is the wear on the arms that align and hold the clutch plates an issue?
I assume it would make the clutch notchy as the plates aren't free to slide apart/together as easily, but; how much can be taken off the side of the arms when smoothing them out?
(i.e. is there an issue of potentially introducing to much play in the system by shaving too much off).
Engine with clutch cover removed and clutch basket taken off:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/hsyj69iho84jwbg/AnXSWYulaU
Engine with ignition cover removed and the stator out:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/oya1mbr2xiljujr/iQT7U87rjI
I'm going to grab some other pictures of other bits as I progress through cleaning and rebuilding stuff. Sorry this is going to be a slow and not very structured thread as I don't have particularly clear or specific goals (or knowledge) to do some detailed write up or how-to's.
My really basic thoughts on removing the engine covers are:
Note that not all the bolts are the same length, so make sure you know where to put them back into. The longer ones go through the bushing sleeves, and on the ignition cover, the shortest on goes in on the top edge, at corner of the narrowest part of the cover.
You might be able to avoid destroying the gasket when removing the cover, but frankly if you're going to the trouble of pulling all this apart, I'd be prepared to replace the gaskets as well.
I separated the cover from the flange by gently tapping upwards and inwards on the base of the gasket (the clutch cover though wasn't as resistant and could actually just be pulled off by hand, but the ignition cover needed some coercing). That is to say, I was trying to tap the cover away from the flange as perpendicularly as possible, but in reality there is some inwards angle as well. Make sure you do this in a few spots around the cover until it is loose enough to be wobbled off, don't just whale away on part of the cover, try and keep it as square to the flange as possible as you remove it. Be careful about trying to lever/pry it apart by jamming something into the gap between the cover and the flange, you run the risk of either cracking the cover or marring the mating surface on the flange.
Any recommendations on that clutch basket wear?
The mechanic reckoned it was shot, order a new clutch basket basically. I'm just wondering if exactly the same thing is going to happen to a new one....
Edit: Nevermind, $750 for a new clutch basket, so I'll be resolving whatever issues the old one has come hell or high water!
The mechanic reckoned it was shot, order a new clutch basket basically. I'm just wondering if exactly the same thing is going to happen to a new one....
Edit: Nevermind, $750 for a new clutch basket, so I'll be resolving whatever issues the old one has come hell or high water!
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Find out what the heck "shot" means.
If it's grooved, you can machine or file it flat again.
If it's grooved, you can machine or file it flat again.
I think the assessment was based on what you can see in the photos, namely that the springs have been partly escaping from the basket and chewing into the retaining tabs that are meant to keep them captive. They've moved out far enough to catch on and wear against the gear behind the basket.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ytbsb6oikbrzteq/NDK5PQ0aOU
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ytbsb6oikbrzteq/NDK5PQ0aOU
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I'd clean up that slight grooving and keep running that basket. I'd have a lot of trouble justifying $750 to replace that.
Your thoughts are the same as mine. When you refer to the slight grooving, do you just mean on the spring retaining tabs?
I was wondering whether or not I should smooth out the dimples on the clutch basket arms (caused by the locating tabs on the clutch plates) or if that would just be asking for trouble, by allowing the clutch plates too much movement and/or letting them mis-align and causing accelerated wear...
I was wondering whether or not I should smooth out the dimples on the clutch basket arms (caused by the locating tabs on the clutch plates) or if that would just be asking for trouble, by allowing the clutch plates too much movement and/or letting them mis-align and causing accelerated wear...
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I mean the wear on the fingers where the plates touch. Filing that down is common maintenance, every once in a while. Just be careful, if you change the angle they will wear much faster. That isn't too bad yet anyway, you might be able to just run it and pay attention to the clutch engagement, for when it starts to get worse. I would probably not worry about the spring tabs, clean them up a bit if you wish.
If your mechanic calls that "shot," beware other arguably fixable wear items you will be paying to replace.
If your mechanic calls that "shot," beware other arguably fixable wear items you will be paying to replace.
Xcuvator
Husqvarna
Pro Class
You most likely already know this Kyle but I thought I'd mention it for those that might not, there is a max spec for plate tab to basket finger in the shop manual. FWIW.
This basket wear is just one more reason to use at least a Kush sprocket when much hard service service is anticipated. IMO