• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

The collective Knowledge...

Motosportz said:
Had one, for soaking wet boots (as in washed out with a garden hose) you really need the forced air ones if you want to ride anytime soon. I greatly prefer the one with the fan. plus I don't like leaving electronics and water together for that long unattended. Usually i can put them on the dryer and by the time i wash my bike, clean stuff up and futz around some they are pretty well done. While the quick dry is not good for leather I abuse my stuff so much and so often it doe not last long anyway. I go through several sets of gear a year.
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I can not beleive the replys and interest this has raised already in 24 hours.
I certainly have never heard of boot driers.
Good stuff !
 
Having 2 pars of boots helps also... Just buy your next pair before the current ones are totally trashed.. Now you have 2 ridable pairs of boots. Use mink oil on them to help waterproof them and keep them pliable...
 
ray_ray said:
Having 2 pars of boots helps also... Just buy your next pair before the current ones are totally trashed.. Now you have 2 ridable pairs of boots. Use mink oil on them to help waterproof them and keep them pliable...
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I have 4 :D Welcome to the NW.

DSCN0676-S.jpg
 
Put master link clips on the inside of the chain so if/when it fails the master link falls out and away from your cases instead of smashing a hole in it. Learned that the hard way....
 
BILLF said:
Almost all oil seals have a spring that can be unwound and cut a few coils with a sharp pair of dykes to be screwed back together to make a tighter fitting seal,works great on worn wipers,learned this years ago on BMW shift shaft seals that leaked new.Pop the spring off a seal find the end and unwind it and see what I mean.billf
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Don't trim the wrong end though.

As for boot driers, stuff your wet boots with shredded newspaper over night to act as an absorbent

As a maintenance fitter of 20 years and now a trade teacher, this is the greatest piece of knowledge I can contribute, keep it clean, keep it tight, keep it lubricated, amen. I challenge anyone who resolves a problem to its root cause that it didn't come back to one of those 3
 
Kreza said:
Don't trim the wrong end though.

As for boot driers, stuff your wet boots with shredded newspaper over night to act as an absorbent

As a maintenance fitter of 20 years and now a trade teacher, this is the greatest piece of knowledge I can contribute, keep it clean, keep it tight, keep it lubricated, amen. I challenge anyone who resolves a problem to its root cause that it didn't come back to one of those 3
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Amen to this! ('Clean, Tight, Lubed')
 
What kind of small electric impact wrench? Like a small drill type with attachments? Battery operated?
 
I like the idea of a modified vise grip for squeezing the master link. I usually have to get into my tool bag to get my actual chain press tool. [Too cheap to buy two:D] This idea should be more convienient.
 
Bagman said:
Could this be used for our clutches also? What about air pockets in brake line or clutch line?
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I've never bled a hydro clutch but I do not think you can use it for that. I think the proper way to bleed a hydro clutch is from the bottom up and maybe the correct tool to use is a syringe.
 
add this one: find a good plastic funnel that has an end o.d. about the size of the fill hole i.d. on the motor. I just screw my funnel into the fill hole and pour in the oil, with it "threaded" there is enough support to hold the oil container upside down unattended for a good drain out of all the oil from the conatiner. Also it fees up your hands as you pour in the oil. The funnel I found is one of the longer smaller diameter cone type so it doesnt interfere with the bike when I screw it in.
I even scribed the proper oil amounts on it for the bikes I use it with, to keep my confused mind OK, (1.6L, 1.8L etc etc what bike??? I forget.)
 
ARod2000 said:
I've never bled a hydro clutch but I do not think you can use it for that. I think the proper way to bleed a hydro clutch is from the bottom up and maybe the correct tool to use is a syringe.
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Magura actually makes a bleed kit that is well worth the couple of bucks it costs, I think KTM aftermarket catalog has them.
This is what I use for my Magura clutch bleeding, it even has the screw in fitting that goes in the place of the valve. The thing works great and is super easy to use.
here it is in rocky mountains catalog
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...&navType=type&prodFamilyId=8804&stockId=31792
 
ARod2000 said:
I've never bled a hydro clutch but I do not think you can use it for that. I think the proper way to bleed a hydro clutch is from the bottom up and maybe the correct tool to use is a syringe.
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AROD - you are right!!!

This is exactly what I use... don't be fooled with the picture of a MT Bike on the box. Uses the same exact process and syringe on my MT bike Magura Brakes . I reccomend buying a piece of clear flex carburetor drain line to easily see the fluid. The white plastic tubing in this kit is somewhat stiff . Kit includes all teh fitting you need.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magura-Bleed-Service-Kit-Magura-Brakes-Rim-Disc-/230481575281

Most MC shops carry them. Bought mine for $27 at malcolm Smith....

One important tip... when rebuilding the clutch slave cylinder fill a small cup or bowl with Maguara Blood/fluid and rebuild it under the surface of the fluid in teh bowl. Helps immensley with bleeding. Push from bottom slave cylinder to top bowl. Don't run out of fluid in your syringe.

Learned this tip from our very own Robertaccio. It works very well and is easy.

T
 
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