• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

The iBeat Thread

Adjusted the fueling for my bike today. Since my laptop runs on Windows 7 Professional, I used Windows Virtual PC to run Windows XP mode to run the diagnostic program. I got the cable, dongle, and USB software driver CD from SEMCO Designs.

When I bought it last year it had the "Power Up" work done to it and the single exhaust conversion (FMF muffler). As far as I can tell the air box looks stock. When I initially checked the fueling, low-mid-high were all set at 100. Based on DynoBob's advice in the first post of this thread, I set low-mid-high to 102-108-120 and took it out for a short ride. Fueling feels so much smoother now when accelerating and minimal popping when decelerating. Bike has better acceleration up to freeway speeds now too, feels more like my former TR650 (which was running a custom tune using a Power Commander V).
 
I'd say it's a long shot that a TE250 wants the same mapping as a 630. My advise would be to research what Dynojet's PCV map for your bike looks like and approximate it with the iBeat settings.

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It has finally arrived the cable eobd
Now I have a problem
which of these software should I use ?
 

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Hey, I'm struggling with the same thing, sort of. It looks like your cable came with a host of vehicle specific software packages. You should only need the drivers for the cable so your pc can recognize it as a comm port, and iBeat. I have no idea which folder contains the drivers, but it's likely not one of the obvious vehicle specific folders. Mine came with a file specifically named USB Driver.exe
Maybe try searching the folder for "driver" and see if something comes up.
 
contact huskyfly on this forum. I gave him an old 32 bit laptop with ibeat software loaded and a cable that I used many times to tune my huskys
 
first steps for a New cable
 

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It is not difficult to realize the connection cable .
it is complicated to create a dialogue with the computer installed iBeat and mikuni unit
 
We require a 3-wire cable attached to the motorcycle connector and to a diagnostic connection eobd 1260 as told by " millenium7 "
We need pliers to connectors and a tester for measuring ohms to make this
 

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Finished my "eBay" cable and got ibeat working today. Did a idle tps set, and set the co to 100-105-117. Quick test ride seems to pull harder. Lofts the front wheel easier in first. Monday I'll find out if it still acts up at low speed/throttle openings. Seemed a little better today, but it was a short ride. Thanks to those who contributed to this thread!
Update: Runs much smoother at cruise, didn't stall at all on my commute today, and on/off throttle transitions at low speed are much improved, and pulls harder/smoother through the revs. nice!
 
I followed the pin out and general directions in this post:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/the-ibeat-thread.44621/page-9#post-535522
Didn't have to change any settings other than the com port. Check device manager to see which com your USB cable device is assigned to. I am using a netbook with a fresh install of Windows XP. Where do you think your problem lies?
The problem is just with my rotten luck. The friend i asked to help is very good with computers and we tried a USB OBD2 and a bluetooth OBD2. We tried a laptop running XP and i tried WOW64. We double checked we had things set up like instructed here and all we ever got was connection error. Gave up in the end, sucks because i have an intermittent flashing neutral and my solution was to cover it with tape.
 
I can't speak for others but the ODB2 cable I ordered was the same one in the amazon link above (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271803567443?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT for Au customers)
If the links become unavailable then what you are looking for is a 'Vagcom' OBD2 to USB cable. On one side it is marked with "VAG KKL" and has a red LED. The other side says "KKL VAG-COM for 409.1"
I believe other cables will work if they support the ISO9141 protocol

The iBeat software only seems to work on 32 bit systems. If you have a 64bit system you can use a virtual machine to install a 32 bit copy of windows without having to reformat the computer. Instructions are in my post above

- Connect the OBD2 cable to the computer (and mount it to the virtual machine if thats what you are using)
- Drivers should be installed automatically, otherwise use the disc that comes with the OBD2 cable (NOT the iBeat drivers)
- Once instlaled, check what COM port has been assigned to the adapter by opening device manager.
In XP click start-run and then type 'devmgmt.msc' and hit ok
In Vista/7 click start, right click 'computer' select 'properties' then click 'device manager' at the top left
Then expand 'Ports (COM & LPT)

IMG_20150628_225743.jpg


Note mine is COM4, double note that if you plug it into a different USB port it'll be assigned a different COM port. So if you do disconnect the cable just recheck the COM assignment
I also checked the port settings as shown above, these are the defaults and shouldn't need to be set. However if they differ, set them to that

- Start the iBeat software (install it if you havn't got to that stage) and then double check that its assigned to the correct COM port in the options menu

IMG_20150628_225759.jpg


IMG_20150628_225816.jpg


Note that sometimes I got a communication port error, even though the cable was plugged in and the COM port was correct. If this happens try replugging the cable and restarting iBeat

- Once the COM port is set click 'OK'

- Now over to the bike side... first thing to note is this black thingy should be removed
DSC03017.jpg~original


I went full retard on this one and got it completely wrong, I removed the 6 little black plugs that fit into the cap and then inserted wires, thats NOT the way to do it. The cap itself can be completely removed as one piece, and will expose a yellow connector like so

DSC03019.jpg~original


- Connect the bike & OBD2 cable as follows

IMG_20150628_225657.jpg



Note that as helpful as 'eddychecker' has been with his posts and we should be grateful he worked out the OBD2 cable in the first place. His OBD2 pinout diagram is reversed since we are NOT looking at a vehicles female plug. So here is what it should be. This was the cause of 2 days swearing at it without much result

IMG_20150628_225633.jpg


- Once thats all hooked up then turn the key on the bike to the on position, make sure the kill-switch is at the 'RUN' position (you'll hear the fuel pump prime). Starting the engine is completely optional, i'd advise leaving it OFF for now
- Either restart iBeat, or click on the orange 'OFFLINE' button at the top right to retry the connection. You should now be online and working

Few things to note
- The red LED on the vagcom cable is ALWAYS on when connected to the USB port, it does not signal anything is right/wrong/connected/disconnected in this instance, so completely ignore it
- Note that i'm using pin '4' not pin '5' for my ground. Try either one if its not working for you
- If things aren't working then yes you can check pins 5 & 6 for voltage, 5 is positive and 6 is negative. You should get 12 volts when the key is set to the ON position. If no voltage is present then there's a problem elsewhere
- It doesn't seem to matter what order you do things in. Feel free to start iBeat first and hook it all up last if you want, just make sure you click the orange 'OFFLINE' button at the top right to retry the connection once its all connected and key is turned on

I hope this helps anyone having issues



great job ! thanks a lot
 
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