• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

The iBeat Thread

I ran into this exact thing on HisPistolship's '08 610. We crossed paths in the Keys last March and I had the stuff with me on the Wing so we hooked it up. In hindsight I think we didn't have the right sequence of things.

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Ok desktop is doing the same,no CO box highlighted.I have a flashing fail box .O2 sensor high value.Haven't noticed it before with PU resistor in place.Does the O2 sensor normal present as a fail with a resistor in place?

IBEAT DESKTOP.JPG
 
How much does your Spark Advance change while running?

I have the Arrow ECU and finally got iBeat. When cold it is at ~13.x - 14.x, once warmed up it seems to hover around 10.x deg.
 
WickedWill

I may be wrong here, but I thought the consensus was to not have a tuner installed and set the CO's to 100. Then hook up the efi tuner, PC, JD etc.

Also, when we only had iBeat v2 I recall it was not 100% compatible with my friends 2010 TE 450, could only adj. CO's down and not up I think. I don't recall any 630 issues with v2 though. v2.1 is the one to have. Is the iBeat version you are running v2.1?
 
DYNOBOB said:
You can see spark advance on my dyno pull vid on first page.

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Click to expand...
Yeah, that was interesting how much of a range it goes through. But on idle yours seems to sit at 8.4? The picture above was at 17.9 (which I assume is a cold engine). Trying to see what the effects of the Arrow ECU is. Currently with just an FMF pipe I had to adjust the iBeat way down (everyone else seems to be going up) to get it to run right.
 
You do not need the semco connector, one from amazon works every bit as good, without the slick semco packaging, but it's only $8.00. I own an Aprilia Futura, ultra cool modern and exciting sport tourer circa 2001. It has a Sagem computer that is quite tune-able with the freeware tuning software Tune ECU . Following the forum instructions, I modified my OBD2 adapter to work with my Futura and had very good results. My amazon adapter has the output capabilities required for the iBeat software. Looking at the output for ISO9141, the K Link (post 7 on the OBD2 connector) is the very one we need for the iBeat software and Mikuni EFI. On the TXCi 250, the diagnostic plug has five wires attached to it, however I used only three of them. Pins 1,5 & 6 are the ones needed. 1 is for the computer interface, 5 & 6 are for the power coming from the bike. On the OBD2 connector, pins 5, 7 & 16 are the ones required. 7 is the interface wire, it connects to 1 on the bike. 5 & 16 are for the positive and negative from the bike (5&6)


Here is a link for the OBD2 connector pinout:
http://www.mbcluster.com/Media_Diagnostics/ODBII Master Pinout.jpg

I tried it today and it works!
 
XLEnduroMan said:
WickedWill

I may be wrong here, but I thought the consensus was to not have a tuner installed and set the CO's to 100. Then hook up the efi tuner, PC, JD etc.

Also, when we only had iBeat v2 I recall it was not 100% compatible with my friends 2010 TE 450, could only adj. CO's down and not up I think. I don't recall any 630 issues with v2 though. v2.1 is the one to have. Is the iBeat version you are running v2.1?
Click to expand...

Yes both computers 2.01.I have had ibeat hooked up in the past and it worked.I run a bazzaz zfi and originally set all my co to 100 no problems no fails etc,this was sometime ago.What i am trying to do is set my second map up to 0 and play with co settings and see what results i get.I am thinking i might have a issue with my o2 eliminator plug.I guess i will grab a resistor and test again with ibeat.
Something interesting while playing around with the bazzaz i found was with the low setting at 100 my idle up to 5% throttle into the 2500rpm range was lean.I built my map with autotune but the program doesn't tune below 3000rpm.
Adding at 0% throttle 1500rpm+8 ,2000+10,2500+10
5% 20000+6,2500+6
Gets me into the 14's afr
Prior to that at just off idle it would have a slight surge and mild erractic idle ,nothing major.
Looking at the dynojet maps they take fuel out down low at a couple of points. I guess their is no one map fits all.
 
I checked my 2008 610.
So what im seeing as white/brown must be pin 1 ?
 

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What you see as white is actually W/V white/violet, that is pin 1. Pin 5, B or blue, is ground and pin 6, Br/W Brown/White, is positive (you call it white and brown). Here is the url of the manual and the wiring diagram is on page 367. Look at item 2 in a circle, that is the diagnostic plug.
 
I picked up the USB OBDII cable suggested by eddychecker a few posts back. Hoping to test it out this weekend. Does anyone know if the data connector in the Mikuni huskies is a standardized connector? Id like to convert the cable with a nice clean plug instead of having to connect the wires to the pins individually. If someone knows where I could source the correct plug please share.
 
Don't be afraid to open the OBD2 adapter and solder directly to the pins inside instead of buying the OBD2 plug. I have two separate plugs wired to my adapter and do not use the OBD2 plug at all. I'm also quite thrifty and didn't want to spend the extra money.
 
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