• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

The iBeat Thread

I am also one who is fighting with connecting. I have been trying my OBLINK SX adapter. Works in every vehicle I have tried but not the Husky. I just ordered the VAG-COM unit. Identical, but I guess they are not exactly the same inside. Cam.
 
Bike is running again and I'm trying to figure out the best setup. (CO settings) now what I can't get away is the stalling when I pull in the clutch in first or even second gear.
Has anyone has any idea how to freaking fix this?
 
- Did you calibrate the TPS of the new throttle body?
- Try a range of 95 to 115 in the "low CO" setting and see if it helps.

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Epicaluptus said:
Bike is running again and I'm trying to figure out the best setup. (CO settings) now what I can't get away is the stalling when I pull in the clutch in first or even second gear.
Has anyone has any idea how to freaking fix this?
Click to expand...
it does not make sense to switch off when you put the gear.
the clutch does not work well?
 
Yup, calibrated the new TPS.
Mmm I'll try that, think it's now on 96. But my idle has dropped a bit to 1600 as well.
Rotax_655 said:
it does not make sense to switch off when you put the gear.
the clutch does not work well?
Click to expand...
Did you never had this problem? Clutch is used but not bad yet...
 
Hello.
How much kilometers on your bike ?
What is the oil? Is good oil ? With bad oil the clutch slides.
 
Please i have a question.
The last week end i have testing the smcr 690 ( stage 1 with akra) of my cousin. He have more more torque more than my sms !!!
Wheeling on 2 and 3 at multiple plages of rpm.
The mine wheeling on 2 lower 3000rpm, after 3500 rpm she is too heavy !
 
Rotax_655 said:
if you make a short video we understand your problem better
Click to expand...
Ill try to make a video, this morning it also just stalled when it was running in neutral, clutch not engaged.
When I pull the clutch to come to a stop in first or second, it stalls sometimes. Or when I put it in first at the traffic light. Really strange...

julienl said:
Hello.
How much kilometers on your bike ?
What is the oil? Is good oil ? With bad oil the clutch slides.
Click to expand...

I dont think it has to do with the clutch... Ill check kms and oil later (got my oil from the husqvarna dealer the last time)
 
julienl said:
Please i have a question.
The last week end i have testing the smcr 690 ( stage 1 with akra) of my cousin. He have more more torque more than my sms !!!
Wheeling on 2 and 3 at multiple plages of rpm.
The mine wheeling on 2 lower 3000rpm, after 3500 rpm she is too heavy !
Click to expand...

We should try to keep this thread about iBeat questions. :)

.
 
So added a bit more fuel, 109 setting. And a little higher idle. But I don't think it's really the right setting, is there a way to know when you are on the right setting?
Still having the problem that it sometimes stalls (mostly when the engine is still "cold")
Hard to make a video about it...
 
There is no way to know the best setting short of finding a dyno operator with a exhaust gas sniffer. They would look at the air/fuel ratio at idle. On a North America ecu bike 109 would be very rich, Dynojet is actually removing some fuel down low on their 630 map. I don't know how a Euro ecu would compare though.

If you have tried 95-109 with the idle set to 1600-1800 and it's still stalling I think there is another problem.

IBeat is showing no error codes?

.
 
Maybe I should indeed find a dyno...
Sometimes it almost stalls, the rpms drop low but then catch back up. Really weird.
No fault codes at all.
 
Epicaluptus said:
So added a bit more fuel, 109 setting. And a little higher idle. But I don't think it's really the right setting, is there a way to know when you are on the right setting?
Still having the problem that it sometimes stalls (mostly when the engine is still "cold")
Hard to make a video about it...
Click to expand...

the standard settings for a motorcycle with a European control unit are 100/100/100. if you have an additional unit dinojet take it off and put the bike back as a factory exit.
to start with a cold engine, use the starter on the clutch lever.
 
Rotax_655 said:
the standard settings for a motorcycle with a European control unit are 100/100/100.
Click to expand...

What information are you basing this statement on? Has someone verified with an exhaust gas analyzer on a dyno that the stock Euro ecu maps are not lean at high rpm/high load? I would recommend caution since the Euro ecu could be as bad as a USA ecu.

.
 
I have no precise data on the test bench as you did in the states but I'm sure that the basic settings when a motorcycle comes out of the factory in Europe are 100/100/100 with lambda probe mounted.
so by logic I say that if eucaliptus has to start to understand something about his bike after having changed the TPS he has to put the bike in standard conditions.
Certainly what you say is possible is correct but possibly to have a carburetion with more fuel to the other regimes "should" set the IBEAT with 100/105/110
But first it is necessary that at least the bike stays in motion at a low number of regimes and does not go out. and that's why 100 / ..... / .....
The races the high-speed travel for a long time relate to racing (but because some of you travel over 6000 rpm for a long time ?? with a TE ??).
This is the contribution I feel to give because I would do it this way
The changes with IBEAT ........ later on a European bike
 
Yes I agree that all bikes came from factory at 100/100/100 with the O2 sensor installed. For whatever reason though, almost everyone (in the US at least) installed the Power-Up kit to "improve" the fueling and get rid of the O2 sensor. Doing so left you with a bike that was dangerously lean on the big end. When I dyno'd my bike with the O2 sensor installed it was even leaner then the PU kit! Maybe in Europe the Power-Up kits were not recommended or used? I don't know. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te630-dyno-results-and-thoughts.24763/

Eucaliptus, do you have the O2 sensor still installed or the Power-Up kit?

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