• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

The iBeat Thread

Power up kit is installed, with aftermarket exhaust, hand made and airbox opened up. Ill check the number of the ECU asap.
 
Heres the recommended settings that came with my JD power surge instructions. Just for extra information for people trying to tune their own bikes.
It would be good to understand how ibeat FB % setting changes compare to JD power surge setting changes
001.jpg002.jpg
 
Hello Rotax,
Please have you the picture of the other side of ECU.
I ll want test this ecu on my sms
TE has a supply of power other than SM
more 'nervous and snapping the SM more' quiet and regular TE
Front of 8000H1642 european version TE
 

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i always heard that the Te Ecu is more nervous than the sms ecu, correct?
And that the arrow ecu is the same as TE 630 EUROP ecu, true ?
 
i always heard that the Te Ecu is more nervous than the sms ecu, correct?
And that the arrow ecu is the same as TE 630 EUROP ecu, true ?
it's the exact opposite of what you say.
the supply of TE power with its 8000H1642 control unit is smooth and regular (made for enduro / off-road driving)
the SM has the most abrupt power to speed up the "supermotard" style.
the control unit of the SM has code 8000H1643
all this in europe.
I hope I was clear without messing up the IBEAT post .....
 
Heres the recommended settings that came with my JD power surge instructions. Just for extra information for people trying to tune their own bikes.
It would be good to understand how ibeat FB % setting changes compare to JD power surge setting changes
View attachment 88463View attachment 88464

I think the JD is an OK way to add fuel where the 630 is lean if you don't have access to iBeat or a PC-V. My criticism is they suggest the same settings for the 450/510/630, those are totally different bikes with unique maps in their ecu's. It would be like Dynojet using the same PC-V map for 3 completely different models. It hurts the products credibility in my mind.

i always heard that the Te Ecu is more nervous than the sms ecu, correct?
And that the arrow ecu is the same as TE 630 EUROP ecu, true ?
it's the exact opposite of what you say.
the supply of TE power with its 8000H1642 control unit is smooth and regular (made for enduro / off-road driving)
the SM has the most abrupt power to speed up the "supermotard" style.
the control unit of the SM has code 8000H1643
all this in europe.
I hope I was clear without messing up the IBEAT post .....

I have never tested this personally, but the consensus when these bikes came out was the SMS ecu was weaker/less responsive then the TE ecu. Many SMS owners ordered the TE ecu for their bike and used SMS ecu's could be bought pretty cheap. I got one for $100 just to have a backup. Never have tried it on my bike - should probably throw it on the dyno and see if there is a difference...

More info: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/gearing-recommendations-for-630-sms.19335/page-3#post-171149


question, is it possible to make a reprog on the oem 630 ECU ???

In six years on the forum I have never heard of anyone reflashing a 630 ecu.

.
 
question, is it possible to make a reprog on the oem 630 ECU ???

Already with the ibeat you can change the amount of petrol.
I do not think it is possible to change the ignition advance unfortunately.
however, as standard there are six different ignition advances based on the gear engaged
 
try the SM unit and you will see that you will find a bike not suitable for turning at low revs as is well done for the TE.
it is obvious that many are looking for the TE control unit not because it is more "performance" but because it is more regular and uniform in operation
 
Thanks dyno and Rotax for the answers, its cool.
I have ibeat with sttings 101/109/121, but why the arrow ecu is better if we can adjust the carb settings, with the setting spark advance ??
On the forum ad driver, a man talk about flashing swm 650
Ecu with the arrow map !
Swm and 630 husky have the same ecu, correct?
Look:
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/the-swm-rs650r-its-finally-here-owners-thread.1120172/page-17
ecu swm is not mikuni like you
ecu swm is athena.
completely reprogrammable with Athena software

http://www.getdata.it/prodotti.php?idcategoria=35&idprodotto=384&lang=eng&idfamiglia=1
 
Top reading.
Athena ecu is not compatible on the husky 630.
Is not the same throtle injection ?

compared to the rs650r it changes the electrical wiring to the electronic control unit. in the end it is not worth replacing the mikuni controller with that Athena.
already with ibeat it is possible to do many things
 
Guys, i have the PU plug and ibeat set to 100-107-115, but the fuel consumption is terible, about 10l per 100km. Also, on cold start i have to turn the on/off button 2-3 times and pull the enrichment lever so that it start ok; otherwise i have to turn the engine for about 10secs before it starts. I'm considering installing the lambda o2 sensor back :(. My fuel pump was replaced with an ebay one because it kept stalling when trying to start it with a hot engine and now it works fine.
 
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