• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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TR650 Engine Immobiliser - EWS

I think that the capabilitie is there...but not activated on the TR. the 800 and 1200 BMW have it but I don't think the terra does. Now the Nuda may have it? Which I believe it uses the same instrument cluster as the TR...I may be wrong. Some speculate that that's why we see "Map II" at start up...the Nuda has a reduced power map.

I do know my bike won't start when the EWS message shows up...which is almost every time I turn the key to on with the LEDs powered up or high beam selected. Easy enough to overcome...you can get tripped up with the high beam though as I proved Saturday! ..lol
 
Kawagumby said:
I use a std metal blank-made key in my Terra - no key authentication from that - never have a problem starting. Mebbe USA models are different?
Click to expand...

Could be a difference between country models.

Cut paste from page 5 of the TR650 Strada/Terra Owners Manual

Electronic immobiliser
By means of a loop antenna on the ignition switch, the motorcycle electronics read the data recorded in the vehicle key. The control unit only allows starting the engine if the key has been recognised.
- Always keep the spare key separate from the ignition key.
- The spare key and the ignition key are available only from HUSQVARNA dealers. The dealer must determine the legitimacy of the purchase because the keys are part of a security system.
 
Hey Trapperj... wondering if you could move the dimmer switch first to see if that helps before adding a 10k capacitor (my guess that is what it will take to clear this up).

You're running two AVD Monstor 60 right??
 
Nev,
Hmmm, my manual says the same thing...yet my non-chip key works. I'd rather not have the chip key in any vehicle I own, if for no other reason than the hassle and cost to get them replaced. I keep my stuff dirty enough so no one wants them anyhow :-)
 
Kawagumby said:
I use a std metal blank-made key in my Terra - no key authentication from that - never have a problem starting. Mebbe USA models are different?
Click to expand...

I just got back from the locksmith who made me an unchipped key from a standard blank for my Terra. When I turn the key, the panel lights up, does its check-out thing, then the RED Warning/Hazard light goes ON and EWS is displayed. The starter will not operate when I press the start button. My bike is "Immobilized". I have a US Terra.

Interesting article here: http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.nvxszdkebklxuaer&pageId=347943
 
TE250Guy said:
I just got back from the locksmith who made me an unchipped key from a standard blank for my Terra. When I turn the key, the panel lights up, does its check-out thing, then the RED Warning/Hazard light goes ON and EWS is displayed. The starter will not operate when I press the start button. My bike is "Immobilized". I have a US Terra.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Well that is one thing Husqvarna has kept consistent - some do, and some do not.

I've got a hunch one batch worked differently than another batch... and it is possible things like that might change if connected to the MOSS tool.
 
The "chip" is just a resistor in the key. It has a value specific to your bike that the ecu looks for.

I once put a remote start alarm on my car and to get around the factory "chipped key" safety feature I just bought a module that learns the resistance value of the key and stores it. When I would remote start the car the ecu would look for the key value, the module would provide it and the alarm would take over the ignition system until I entered the car, inserted the key and then stepped on the brake pedal.
 
kjackbrown said:
The "chip" is just a resistor in the key. It has a value specific to your bike that the ecu looks for.

I once put a remote start alarm on my car and to get around the factory "chipped key" safety feature I just bought a module that learns the resistance value of the key and stores it. When I would remote start the car the ecu would look for the key value, the module would provide it and the alarm would take over the ignition system until I entered the car, inserted the key and then stepped on the brake pedal.
Click to expand...
Do you mean there is a resistance value transmitted via RFID?

Link for reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radio-frequency_identification
 
kjackbrown said:
The "chip" is just a resistor in the key. It has a value specific to your bike that the ecu looks for.
Click to expand...

The immobilizer system that BMW use on their bikes (I presume the TR650 uses the same system) is that the key has an unpowered transmitter in it. The antenna ring around the key hole creates an induction circuit which "powers up" they key and it transmits it's code. The antenna receives the code and then the ECU or some other module authorises it. This can be confirmed by putting one key in the ignition and holding the spare key close to the antenna. Both keys will power up and transmit their codes and this confusion will cause the authentication to fail. I have also owned several Honda bikes which had the same type of immobilizer.

Here is an excellent BMW bulletin explaining how it works
https://www.bmwmc.net/catalog/61 008 04 (065) EWS Electronic Immobiliser.pdf
I can confirm that when my bike had the faulty ECU and displayed the EWS error (as per the posts at the top of this thread) the new ECU had to be programmed with the vehicle VIN at the factory to be compatible with the other immobilizer components in the bike.
 
Well..I have a 2012 R1200 GS with the same lights as I have on the Husqvarna TR. the dimmer however is different. The TR I use the rotary style dimmer..(just as BigDog does) and have the issue with the EWS almost 100% of the time if the lights on left on full power at start up. The GS has the remote Key fob style that Adventure Monster sells & has never failed to start or given the EWS ..maybe the difference is in the dimmer. Someone mentioned that LED lights create no electrical noise themselves to cause a problem. I'd switch to the other style dimmer if I knew it'd fix the problem. Although as long as its only I that ride the bike there shouldn't be a problem....all I have to do is turn he rotary knob to off and make sure my high beam is off. Not too hard really...for as much extra light as I have. Totally worth it IMHO.
 
Trapperj said:
Well..I have a 2012 R1200 GS with the same lights as I have on the Husqvarna TR. the dimmer however is different. The TR I use the rotary style dimmer..(just as BigDog does) and have the issue with the EWS almost 100% of the time if the lights on left on full power at start up. The GS has the remote Key fob style that Adventure Monster sells & has never failed to start or given the EWS ..maybe the difference is in the dimmer. Someone mentioned that LED lights create no electrical noise themselves to cause a problem. I'd switch to the other style dimmer if I knew it'd fix the problem. Although as long as its only I that ride the bike there shouldn't be a problem....all I have to do is turn he rotary knob to off and make sure my high beam is off. Not too hard really...for as much extra light as I have. Totally worth it IMHO.
Click to expand...
Are you using a standard house light switch dimmer? The kind found at a Home Depot/Lowes that can be installed in a wall to dim an incandescent light?
 
No...I am using a rotary dimmer switch sold by Adventure Monster that he sells to control his brand of LEDs. There's a bunch of his lights out there...and work well for most. They are Chinese and some say by default there of lesser quality. I know they were priced right and as Bigdog says."turns night into day"

John @ Adv. Monster suggested what might be a fix...1. Move the dimmer switch further away from the key/ instrument cluster. 2. Install a 10k capacitor across the +\- off the dimmer. I haven't had a chance to try either yet.
 
Trapperj said:
No...I am using a rotary dimmer switch sold by Adventure Monster that he sells to control his brand of LEDs. There's a bunch of his lights out there...and work well for most. They are Chinese and some say by default there of lesser quality. I know they were priced right and as Bigdog says."turns night into day"

John @ Adv. Monster suggested what might be a fix...1. Move the dimmer switch further away from the key/ instrument cluster. 2. Install a 10k capacitor across the +\- off the dimmer. I haven't had a chance to try either yet.
Click to expand...
Could you, or anyone else, post a link to these LEDs?
Thread on advrider for instance?

I'm curious from an electrical view point...
 
I put a HID kit on my Terra this weekend before I drove 200 miles upstate. On the way up I noticed my Speed and Temp indication on my gauges was faint, and then it disappeared. Then the next day I turned the bike back on with the HID off and the cluster worked perfect. Turned on the HID and went on my way. Around 30 mins later stopped at a gas station and tried to start the bike and the EWS came up, Gave it a min and found this thread. Turned off the HID the bike ran mint and I drove away. Do you think the 10K cap will help me?
 
Try undoing everything you added electrically and then unhook the battery for at least fifteen minutes. When you restart, should issue be solved, let the bike idle for 10 minutes to calibrate the ecu again. Do not hit the throttle at all.
 
fastkx125 said:
I tried the Caps, Not only did it not work. Now my bike is stuck in EWS!!! How do I reset this?
Click to expand...


Make sure there's no current draw when you're hitting the start button. Sometimes I get the EWS when trying to start the bike with the heated grips turned on. Try charging the battery while you have it unhooked.
 
hi guys,cant help with the ews,but can confirm that the adv monster led,s 60s have interference,just put some on my 630 & when turned on the uhf goes berserk{no dimmer just on & off,i was told by a led manufacturer that most are pwm}
 
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