• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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250-500cc Tricks to lighten up clutch pull?

firecrotch

firecrotch

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Love my WR300 but the clutch pull leaves alot to be desired. Last weekend I loosened it so much the thing actually came disconnected during a ride. Grr...any tricks on anything to do to lighten it up? and no I will never switch to autoclutch....
 
you can get levers with variable leverage ratios -Im sure there are more out there but "CRG" ones are too expensive
 
If your cable popped off of the arm by the engine. You need to bend that little metal tab so it is not possible for it to come out. I have had that thing come out on the line for a Hare Scramble. Be careful as the metal tab can break over time. I used a motion pro cable on my WR, get a little cable lube device that crimps on the top of the cable and forces fluid in. I always used Silkolene cable lube. Make sure there are no sharp bends in the cable. You can also use a Works Connection Clutch perch. I think Nathan Kanney told me he ran a Yamaha perch to get a better pull ratio. I have modified a Honda Works Connection perch to work but I am not sure the Honda one helped clutch pull. I have never modified the arm on the motor but I do hear it helps. You may also want to look into a hydraulic replacement. A buddy with a CRF 450 got one for his bike and you can pull it with one finger.
 
firecrotch;111505 said:
Love my WR300 but the clutch pull leaves alot to be desired. Last weekend I loosened it so much the thing actually came disconnected during a ride. Grr...any tricks on anything to do to lighten it up? and no I will never switch to autoclutch....
Click to expand...

The Zip Ty crew takes the original cable and shortens it about 2 to 3 inches .I had Tys dad who owns a company called Terry Cable make me a new cable and shorten it to what the Zip Ty crew does and i feel it is
now a easier pull The original cable is extra long . You could contact either Zip Ty racing or
Terry Davis at Terry Cable , both are in Hesperia Calif
 
btw, I've been there and tried several things for a softer clutch. I've tried the moose thing (I didnt like it at all), I've tried different levers. The best way to go is extending the actuator arm, I promise. That and lubing the cable with a quality cable lube often. I use Motion Pro cable lube. Also, mine came out and I safety wired it in. Look closely in this photo and you'll see how it's safety wired.

To make the arm extender I used a circular saw blade for my metal. It already has the center cut out in a circle and that works well as the fulcrum point. Just get a cheap saw blade, draw a "finger" extending from the center of the blade and cut it out with a dremel tool. You only need to extend it a little bit (as show in the photo) and pay attention to where the cable passes near the vent on top of the engine/transmission. You can see it in this photo, it's kinda blurry in the back and the cable passes real close to it. Just make sure you're not bumping it.

Invest a little time to do this and it will be one of the best mods you do. Especially if you race enduros. It's nice to have a lighter pull over a long race. And it's nice because it doesn't change the feel in the lever.

IMG_5106.jpg
 
ARod2000;111622 said:
To make the arm extender I used a circular saw blade for my metal. It already has the center cut out in a circle and that works well as the fulcrum point. Just get a cheap saw blade, draw a "finger" extending from the center of the blade and cut it out with a dremel tool. You only need to extend it a little bit (as show in the photo) and pay attention to where the cable passes near the vent on top of the engine/transmission. You can see it in this photo, it's kinda blurry in the back and the cable passes real close to it. Just make sure you're not bumping it.

Invest a little time to do this and it will be one of the best mods you do. Especially if you race enduros. It's nice to have a lighter pull over a long race. And it's nice because it doesn't change the feel in the lever.
Click to expand...


did you find this mod made any noticeable difference in the disengagement? seems like the 250/300's already have enough clutch drag with the lever pulled in to start to be an issue for some folks. Would this make it worse.

I'm thinking of doing something. After riding 35 hours or so last week in the idaho mountains, my left hand was wasted, and that was on my weak little 200. As i get older, i get wimpier.
 
motosapiens;111641 said:
did you find this mod made any noticeable difference in the disengagement?
Click to expand...

No, not at all. Actually, the mods you can do to the lever on your handle bar all affected the engagement/disengagement point. Which is why I didn't like any of them. Extending the actuator arm does not change the feel of the clutch, other than making it lighter. :thumbsup:

Edit: fyi, I've been racing the last two years with this mod and it hasn't caused the first issue. I'd guess I have 30 or more races with this mod. It works well.
 
this is odd to me, because my wr has what i consider to be a true one finger clutch. it's more buttery than any hydraulic i've felt and only needs a second finger for extended work. maybe it's because i've only been off of the relics for 8 months or so, so maybe anything short of a grip strengthener squeezy thing would be easier for me, idk but mine seems easy.
 
There are two ways to change the clutch levers leverage ratio;

One is extend the attachment point on the lower clutch arm away from the pivot point.

The second is to move the attachment point of the cable at the lever closer to the pivot point.

The latter yielding the higher increase in ratio per mm moved.

The stock lever has the cable drum further away from the pivot than a typical Honda ratio that is most commonly used. Such as the WORKS CONNECTION perch. Yamaha has some Quad levers that have a slightly higher ratio the the Honda, along with a much longer lever, which also increases the leverage ratio.

The last trick is to move the clutch perch as far in, or away from the grip as you can stand. Doing this with the long Yamaha lever gives some high returns.
 
I found that a ball bearing lever (I have an ASV C5) and fresh clutch cable make a world of difference and allow you to retain the same leverage ratio so you don't have to worry about inducing clutch drag or changing engagement feel. I don't have a WR300 though, but have had good luck with this on my older WXC250 and several other bikes (I have wrist issues that flame up when clutch pull is on the firm side).
 
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