• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Triple clamp help

migz

Husqvarna
C Class
New to the forum….. I recently picked up an early 80's 250CR to restore. I am in the process of disassembling the bike and need some guidance. I am taking the triple clamp apart to have it re-powder coated and I am running into problems with the bottom of the clamp and stem. What is the best way to remove the stem and lower bearings from the bottom clamp. I have had it in a 20 ton press and have not been able to budge the stem from the clamp, I have removed the circlip. I haven’t gotten too aggressive with it as not to bend the bottom of the clamp. Suggestions, thoughts ?

Thanks,
Mike
 
It should come out pretty easily with a press. Remember to push down on the top of the stem so that it exits out the bottom of the lower clamp. The bearing will slide off as this is being done. Put some support under the clamp next to the stem area to prevent flexing.
 
migz,
Just my $.02 worth.

If your just powdering the stock clamp, leave the stem attached. Bust the old lower bearing off and let the sandblaster/powdercoater tape the stem assembly up before they do their work. Put new race and bearing set in once they are done and you'd be good to go.

I needed just the stem for my project and the dang thing had to be cut out the lower clamp. Thats after heat, a big ball peen and subsequent press.

Rick
 
I had the same problem and did the same fix. I just let the Powdercoater Tape it off after removing the Circlip and washer. Mine didn't want to move either.
 
Long Range;84799 said:
Remember to push down on the top of the stem so that it exits out the bottom of the lower clamp.QUOTE]

Ya, it looks like you're supposed to remove the circlip then press it out the short way. Nope, works better the way Long Range described. Don't even have to remove the snap ring.
 
+1 above, just leave the stem in.
I was able to drive the lower bearing off with a long tapered punch and hammer by holding the punch at a 60 deg. angle to the stem centerline. Hit one side then the other.
There is a slpit puller adaptor for this type of bearing. It has a knife edge on the ID. You tighten the halves of this device under the bearing then attach a puller to it.
The bearings for an 86 are Timken L44600LA and race L44610. The bearing has the grease seal on it. Very common as it fits a trailer axle as well.
Don't forget to put the spacer washer under the new lower bearing. You can easely drive the new bearing on with a pc of pipe. Be sure it is seated by tapping on inner race with long punch and hammer.
 
Back
Top