• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

True drive chain tension 630

shoolsema

shoolsema

Husqvarna
AA Class
Has anyone actually removed their rear shock, lowered the bike so that the swing-arm is parallel to the ground (where the chain is the tightest), and then set the chain so that it is tought (no deflection). Then raise the bike completely off the ground, push the chain upward and measure distance from swing arm. In my mind that is the only way to get perfect chain tension without removing your rear shock every time. Also, this procedure would be accurate no matter what sag or rear spring tension each person had, because your not setting the chain with the bike weight on the suspension. (As its been said before) the procedure in the manual seem to tight. I don't trust the manual on this one...

I was hoping someone would have a true spec on this...save me an hour of pissing around.
 
little over three fingers at the rear of the chain slider has always worked for me. I always run mine slightly on the loose side. Tight kills stuff.
 
so that's 3 fingers between the chain and the swing arm measured where the chain slider ends? Ok, thanx. i would still like to hear from someone who has actually pulled the shock out, lowered the bike, set the chain at its tightest point, and then measured with bike fully off the ground? .....Anyone???
 
shoolsema said:
Has anyone actually removed their rear shock, lowered the bike so that the swing-arm is parallel to the ground (where the chain is the tightest), and then set the chain so that it is tought (no deflection). Then raise the bike completely off the ground, push the chain upward and measure distance from swing arm. In my mind that is the only way to get perfect chain tension without removing your rear shock every time. Also, this procedure would be accurate no matter what sag or rear spring tension each person had, because your not setting the chain with the bike weight on the suspension. (As its been said before) the procedure in the manual seem to tight. I don't trust the manual on this one...

I was hoping someone would have a true spec on this...save me an hour of pissing around.
Click to expand...
This will only work if eveyone has the same sprocket setup. No need to remove the shock! I check mine every few days by leaning over the right side of the bike with the bike leaned my way with my mid section resting on the seat. I grab the end of the swing arm with my left hand and pull. This pulling combined with my weight pushing on the seat lines up the swingarm so I can check the chain tension with my free hand. Takes about 10 seconds. If you are not as strong as me you can just as easily pull the suspension straight with a ratchet ty-down or a piece of rope. I guess if you do this once you can then measure the chain deflection and use this method.
 
willie said:
.... I grab the end of the swing arm with my left hand and pull. This pulling combined with my weight pushing on the seat lines up the swingarm so I can check the chain tension with my free hand. .
Click to expand...

I just adopted this method. Works perfect.
 
You Guys are RIPPED!! I got arms like a tooth pick! :D

I will have to set my sag properly for my 155lb A$$ (back off my spring). I did exaclty what you suggested when i 1st set my chain and that's when i realized to book seems wrong. I leaned over and grabbed the swing and pulled. I could not get the swingarm straight and the chain was already taut. Thank you. I will try this method again.
 
shoolsema said:
You Guys are RIPPED!! I got arms like a tooth pick! :D

I will have to set my sag properly for my 155lb A$$ (back off my spring). I did exaclty what you suggested when i 1st set my chain and that's when i realized to book seems wrong. I leaned over and grabbed the swing and pulled. I could not get the swingarm straight and the chain was already taut. Thank you. I will try this method again.
Click to expand...
Unless you plan on riding two-up, the stock spring will be much too stiff for a 155lb rider. I am 190lb and went from the stock 6.4kg/mm to a 5.4kg/mm to get the required race sag.
 
I weigh 178 and put on a 5.8 spring that came with my used 610. It still doesn't get me enough sag. I'm going to get a 5.4, especially since my "fighting weight" is around 160 and I've started running again.

After that (if my tax return isn't too painful) are softer fork springs and the comp adjusters from a pre-08 610...

You 155lb fit dudes just can't ride this thing stock. It's sprung for a 200+ pounder, plus his girlfriend.

Basic rule: Any bike that comes with passenger footpegs is likely over-sprung.
 
Son Of A B*#ch! More stuff i gotta buy! New rear spring and front springs. Probably cheaper to go the cheeseburger route.

Where? how much? for springs....
 
I'm going to ratchet my bike down and check the chain that way, hopefully tonight. I have a feeling that mine is too tight and I don't want to break something.
 
willie said:
Unless you plan on riding two-up, the stock spring will be much too stiff for a 155lb rider. I am 190lb and went from the stock 6.4kg/mm to a 5.4kg/mm to get the required race sag.
Click to expand...

where did you purchase the 5.4 kg/mm spring? I'm about 180lb and have backed off the pre-load considerably especially after removing the twin boat anchors in favor of a single TI Leo. I'd also like to purchase a softer spring for my girlfriend that rides the SM630 since she is only 125lb with full gear.
 
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