TXC449 overheating?

[husq449]

The 449/511's run hot no matter what, but there are two coolants in your engine, radiator coolant and oil. Our solution is to not use water in the radiators. XF never boils nor does it have cavitation.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ziptys-xf-radiator-coolant.31244/#post-288126

Oil also makes a huge difference in the 449, what weight and brand are you using? How much oil do you have in your crankcase? If your answer is "whatever the dealer put in", it is typically incorrect.

Well my answer is exactly that, what oil do you recommend and how much? Have you guys heard of ZX1?
I will be putting that in with the next oil change as it is impeccable.
It eliminates friction and stops engine wear on warm up.
Anyway I will swap out whatever is in there if the bike keeps on overheating after the dealer has had it back, this XF sounds very good! Would ready mixed anti freeze work as well? I know it sounds bad but john deere cool guard I've ran in all my previous bikes and it has been brilliant.

 

[Tinken]

Mobil1 0W40, 1150cc. If you run that, you will need no additives, besides, you have to be careful what you add due to the torque limiter friction plates. We sell an additive for racing which does what you claim and does not harm the TL. But M1 0W40 will work well and you won't see any wear.

XF is a waterless coolant that does not boil at engine temperatures. Anytime you add water to a cooling system, you are adding corrosion, cavitation, foaming, hotspots, etc. XF keeps the cooling system looking brand new and saves you from expensive repair bills later on.

 

[husq449]

And is that 1150cc with a breather and catch tank? Just wondering as I don't have those, worried of overfilling, I guess john deere coolant will be fine then as you use it straight from the bottle, I will have to email someone over at ZX1 about using with the TL, are the friction plates a similar material to clutch plates? I say this because it says on the bottle it's safe for wet clutches

 

[Dangermouse449]

I run 1150 ml of Castrol Power1 Racing, 5w40 full synthetic also.
Don't have any tanks or breathers, fine on most rides, occasional oil the air filter housing, like a teaspoon full every now & then.
Looking a getting the breather.

 

[Tinken]

And is that 1150cc with a breather and catch tank? Just wondering as I don't have those, worried of overfilling, I guess john deere coolant will be fine then as you use it straight from the bottle, I will have to email someone over at ZX1 about using with the TL, are the friction plates a similar material to clutch plates? I say this because it says on the bottle it's safe for wet clutches

Torque limiter plates are metal.

 

[Mr Ford40]

Mobil1 0W40, 1150cc. If you run that, you will need no additives, besides, you have to be careful what you add due to the torque limiter friction plates. We sell an additive for racing which does what you claim and does not harm the TL. But M1 0W40 will work well and you won't see any wear.

XF is a waterless coolant that does not boil at engine temperatures. Anytime you add water to a cooling system, you are adding corrosion, cavitation, foaming, hotspots, etc. XF keeps the cooling system looking brand new and saves you from expensive repair bills later on.

Tinken G'day I have to agree to Corrosion on Tap water but boiled water takes all the impurities out of the naties in the water, and it's ashame motor manufacturers use water pump propellar's that are designed poorly that sometimes corse cavitation (cars , trucks and bike) and I did have big problems with this on my drag car , that was on a 351 stroker cleveland 607BHP Street car any way I had a water pump custom made to stop this and the idea come from the SNOWY MOUNTAIN HYDRO SCHEME they had big issues with the turbines over heating they changed the pump like my set up and resolved there issue's what did they do think of a paddle wheel on a steam boat but with a full size plate on one end and the other on the shaft and the amount of water pressure it produces then requires a restrictor .

 

[Super5onic88]

These bikes run lean and hot with a full exhaust. map 3 or a pcv would unlock more potential and also keep the bike a little less hot.

 

[Tinken]

Tinken G'day I have to agree to Corrosion on Tap water but boiled water takes all the impurities out of the naties in the water

Unfortunately it's not the impurities which cause the corrosion, but the water itself.

For example let's look at how water, H2O, corrodes iron. When metal atoms are exposed to an environment containing water molecules they can give up electrons, becoming themselves positively charged ions, provided an electrical circuit can be completed. This effect can be concentrated locally to form a pit or, sometimes a crack, or it can extend across a wide area to produce general cracked and pitted wastage. The corrosion process (anodic reaction) of the metal dissolving as ions generates some electrons, as shown in the image I posted below, that are consumed by a secondary process (cathodic reaction). These two processes have to balance their charges. The sites hosting these two processes can be located close to each other on the metal's surface, or far apart depending on the circumstances. When this happens in your radiator, it cracks, leaks and over heating issues occur.

Skip to 0:40 seconds to see an example of this on aluminum.