Updated TPS/EFI Reset 449/511

[godfingerzzz]

Hi Guys, just wondering if any one has had to replace their TPS sensor switch??

Mine had the cables broken off by a stick in the bush, I replaced the sensor and now the dash doesn't have FAIL showing but wont run correctly.
I did a TPS reset as shown on page 1, both methods of leaving disconnected for 20 mins and turning throttle full on and off while ignition on only.
However the bike won't run correctly, it will rev hard but low revs is just popping and reving unevenly and carrying on. Do I need to connect it to a scan tool and have it set up? (thats what the local dealer is saying)
Any info is appreciated. Would like to ride tomorrow otherwise will need to take it to the dealer and have it looked at in a weeks time.
Thanks

Yeah, I took off and replaced my TPS sensor, and now it doesn't run right. The reset did not work. I'm thinking it might need a scan tool, as I can't find anything about it in the big service manual. Let me know if you get it fixed, thanks!

 

[bigmo]

Yeah, I took off and replaced my TPS sensor, and now it doesn't run right. The reset did not work. I'm thinking it might need a scan tool, as I can't find anything about it in the big service manual. Let me know if you get it fixed, thanks!

Is yours a MY 13?

I followed the TPS reset instructions to the T MANY times and could not get a reset. I had to take mine to my dealer and they did it for me in a few seconds for a 6 pack He actualyl told me I was the second guy that week that had problems resetting the MY 13.

We of course have to improvise not having a key switch, but I am confident I did it right (and I did it like 10 times). Nada. One reset at the shop and everything was back to normal. This happened after a massive flameout lock at about 20 miles on the odo - we had to break it by dragging the wheel and bump starting it. Once we did that the TPS had reset itself somehow. Weird grelin, but since that time never had an issue and I have put many miles on since then.

 

[Tinken]

Hi Guys, just wondering if any one has had to replace their TPS sensor switch??

Mine had the cables broken off by a stick in the bush, I replaced the sensor and now the dash doesn't have FAIL showing but wont run correctly.
I did a TPS reset as shown on page 1, both methods of leaving disconnected for 20 mins and turning throttle full on and off while ignition on only.
However the bike won't run correctly, it will rev hard but low revs is just popping and reving unevenly and carrying on. Do I need to connect it to a scan tool and have it set up? (thats what the local dealer is saying)
Any info is appreciated. Would like to ride tomorrow otherwise will need to take it to the dealer and have it looked at in a weeks time.
Thanks

Yeah, I took off and replaced my TPS sensor, and now it doesn't run right. The reset did not work. I'm thinking it might need a scan tool, as I can't find anything about it in the big service manual. Let me know if you get it fixed, thanks!

When you put your throttle position sensor back on, it must be adjusted by ohmic value. It should be in the workshop manual.

 

[SDPUTTER]

Yeah, I took off and replaced my TPS sensor, and now it doesn't run right. The reset did not work. I'm thinking it might need a scan tool, as I can't find anything about it in the big service manual. Let me know if you get it fixed, thanks!

Here is a little more info;
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te-511-efi-adjustable-sensors.29357/

 

[Perljam]

Hey Tinken, I had you race map III my 2012 SMR511 ECU last year. Ran well all last summer, but now after fully warmed up and riden, flame outs have returned big time. Finally wouldnt even start until completely cold. (runs great above low RPM) Have Titanium Akro. Never tried resetting TPS and will do so now. But i suspect PCV might be the answer. ?? Valves, which might be out slightly out of spec, wouldn't have anything to do with flame outs, right?

As always, appreciate your help.

 

[Huskynoobee]

Temp sensor?

 

[Tinken]

If you turn the air screw out, will it idle?

 

[Perljam]

Sorry guys, haven't had to chance to make any adjustments yet. Will try resetting TPS this week. Tinken, it starts right up and idles fine, are you suggesting turning the air screw out all the way while it's idling to see what happens?
Thanks

 

[Tinken]

Sorry guys, haven't had to chance to make any adjustments yet. Will try resetting TPS this week. Tinken, it starts right up and idles fine, are you suggesting turning the air screw out all the way while it's idling to see what happens?
Thanks

Yes, maybe you could clarify where it doesn't run correctly. Is it when you first turn the throttle open, but runs on top? Please explain further.

 

[Perljam]

OK. It flames out, stalls...whatever you want to call it...when easing on the throttle from idle. You gotta goose it, (rev, rev) get rpm up a bit, then let out clutch. Then underway, you can shift aggressively (normally) through all the gears and she runs like a charm. But, once you start taking it easy..for example on last ride I was up on pegs, in 2nd or 3rd, not at idle but low rpm, flamed out, stupid me wasn't covering clutch, dumped me like a ragdoll...splat! Armor works as do sliders!

But last year after getting ECU ZipTy mapped, the flame outs all but disappeared. Whereas my last ride, it flamed out all day long (only one splat, thankfully). Unless there's something else that I need to do, I'm thinking just buy the power commander V and be done with it, and of course increase performance. But I don't want to be naive and assume the PCV is be the all and end all to this problem, if more needs to be addressed.

Thanks again!

 

[daddyrat]

Hi Tinken. I followed your advice on the air settings. I turned in the screw until it would not go in any further and backed it out by 2 1/4 turns. The bike would not start. I backed out the screw another 1/4 turn without any luck. I then reset the screw to the 3 turns out it was initially set at and the bike started. I have the Australian version of a 2013 te449 with map2 and Acrop muffler installed. I have reset the TPS as per instructions hoping for fewer flame outs. Will go for a test ride today.

 

[Huskyte449-13]

I boys how do you know if the TPS reset has worked? ?

 

[Dangermouse449]

I boys how do you know if the TPS reset has worked? ?

Never made a scrap of difference to my 2011 TE449.
Lost count of the number of times I tried it (even out on the trails) hoping to assist with flameouts etc....
Physically setting up the primary TPS voltage at idle is what made the difference.

 

[Huskyte449-13]

Got a sticking throttle problem thought i would try the tps reset first to no evail. Any suggestions.
Doesnt happen all time mainly whilst the bike is warm. Checked all mechanical. Thinking maybe a faulty Sensor?just bought the bike its done 2500kms.

Never made a scrap of difference to my 2011 TE449.
Lost count of the number of times I tried it (even out on the trails) hoping to assist with flameouts etc....
Physically setting up the primary TPS voltage at idle is what made the difference.

 

[Huskyte449-13]

Looks like after reviewing many threads that removing second butterfly will solve the problem. Whats your thoughts danger?

 

[Dangermouse449]

Hanging idle.
It fault is with the ecu controlled secondary butterfly system.
The end of the second butterfly shaft has a cam on it, this acts on a roller on an arm attached to the primary throttle.
The hope was it should control idle speed.
Some bikes it does, others like yours and mine, it is erratic.
Grind the pin for the roller off the arm with a dremel and remove the roller.
Set the idle using the brass air bypass screw and never look back.
In addition, if you want good throttle response, pull out the secondary butterfly plate.
You will be amazed at the change in throttle response.

 

[Huskyte449-13]

Hanging idle.
It fault is with the ecu controlled secondary butterfly system.
The end of the second butterfly shaft has a cam on it, this acts on a roller on an arm attached to the primary throttle.
The hope was it should control idle speed.
Some bikes it does, others like yours and mine, it is erratic.
Grind the pin for the roller off the arm with a dremel and remove the roller.
Set the idle using the brass air bypass screw and never look back.
In addition, if you want good throttle response, pull out the secondary butterfly plate.
You will be amazed at the change in throttle response.

Thanks mate done riding sat to c hopefully improvement and will advise. Appreciate your time and effort to the site

 

[norma stitz]

I buggered my secondary plate system by trying to start the bike with a rubber cap jammed into the throttle body while I was doing engine work, . Then I removed plate, but now dash just says "fail" but the bike runs fine it seems. Should I remove the cam on the shaft as you suggest?

 

[Trenchcoat85]

I buggered my secondary plate system by trying to start the bike with a rubber cap jammed into the throttle body while I was doing engine work, . Then I removed plate, but now dash just says "fail" but the bike runs fine it seems. Should I remove the cam on the shaft as you suggest?

you might try disconnecting the battery for a bit and seeing if the "fail" goes away. DM?

I'd get rid of the cam just on general principals; but you might get a hair bit more compression braking and backfiring (neither is a bad thing) when rolling off the throttle.

 

[Dangermouse449]

I buggered my secondary plate system by trying to start the bike with a rubber cap jammed into the throttle body while I was doing engine work, . Then I removed plate, but now dash just says "fail" but the bike runs fine it seems. Should I remove the cam on the shaft as you suggest?

Does the secondary butterfly motor still cycle to park when you turn the ignition off?
If not, likely the motor is damaged.
If yes, would be worth trying the battery reset.