• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Uptite 167

dfeckel,
Thanks for the info! I looked at part numbers and saw that the stator for an '08 vs. '09 CR125's have different part numbers. Being that you have a '08 CR and I have a '09 WR I am wondering that if I buy the same parts as you did......will it fit on my '09? The cranks are both the same so I cant see it not fitting. What year CR250 harness did you end up buying? I looked for the part number listed but couldnt locate it. Basically you just have to switch out the wiring harness right? I need to swap my coil and stator as well. I just want to make sure all my parts work together before purchasing. Any insight would be awesome. And by the way.....Im on the list for Walts 165 kit as well! Thanks - Matt
 
The CDI is in a different location 09 and up so the wires are longer. That is probably why the part numbers are different. I used older parts on my 09 but I had to cut and extend the wires.
 
Cool,
thanks for the info NWRider. My local dealers are closed today so I will make some calls to get prices tomorrow.
 
I put on my UPTITE 167 kit tonight. I was shocked on how clean my pipe and exhaust port and power valves were. Just a touch of carbon on piston crown. NONE at all on head. That is with my stock 144cc topend on my 2011 WR150. I have been running 1 gallon of Sunoco 110 race gas to 4 gallons of 100LL AvGas. Maxima K2 oil mixed at 40:1. My crank was soaked in oil when I pulled the top end. Clean burning oil ! I also use an ounce of StarTron Enzyme treatment to 5 gallons of fuel also. Stabilizes the fuel for up to 2 years and seems to make it burn more efficiently. I will crank it tomorrow. I was going to put on a 14T front sprocket but the one that was sent me was a 8 spline instead of a 12 spline sprocket. I plan on breaking the bike in next weekend working the Perry Mtn. Tri Sanctioned Shootout Hare Scrambles.
 
I would really like to hear your opinion and settings. I tried it and could not get it where I liked it. It runs good down low and it runs real good up top. I just could not get it to transition fast enough (from low to high) I didn't have enough time to play with different settings. I had a CR ignition with a 38 kehin carb. My guess is it needs a different pipe to really run right. Again interested in your report. I went back to the WR 125.
 
Runs OK, Just not what I expected. I can tell more after I put on the 14T sprocket. Idles good. Seems good power but I had my 150 (144cc) running great. I am also running a 36mm Keihin. Bike idles good and jetting seems good. I think Walts kit keeps the crank compression up which will help develop more power. Walt also likes a different pipe. ANYWAY, Not making my judgement untill after I regear and do more riding.
 
I rode Walt's bike with the 167 kit and it was good for him but not for me. Huge power on the bottom and midrange and then nothing. I love my 144 with Walt's powervalve spring kit! :banana:
 
I'm running the large white spring with the small green one. Very smooth transition into a kick butt top end. Very fun to ride. I think the RB Designs carb mod makes it possible to run any spring combo you like.
 
You would be amazed at the memory detail George has on jetting 2st bikes. Some guy came in that had an 82 500 and thought it had a Bing. George set him straight on how to jet his Mikuni (no, not a Bing) and coached him on tricks to starting it with all the relevant reasoning (and experience) behind the techniques and modifications done to the needles. Of course when you can make a ring out of barb wire, you probably are some sort of shaman already.
 
Uptite bored my 02 to a 195 back in 03.....

That would require a 67.5 mm bore which is into the head o-ring. Did he sleeve it to get it that big or did you stroke it too? With the 62.5mm bore it would require a 9mm increase in stroke. Just curious how he got it that big.
 
I have to put a spacer under the cylinder...dont remember what piston I was running...seems like a YZ but cant remember...

but he did sleeve it and it was not a Chrome bore...

boy it ran good too....
 
Rode the 167cc some this weekend. Had to drop the main down from a 175 in my 36mm Keihin down to a 170. It would blubber on the main just before cleaning out otherwise. It definely needs taller gearing. I put on a worn 14T just to test with and couldn't tell a difference until I got into the upper gears. Halls was out of front sprockets , I ordered a 13T and a 14T from Kelly at Motosportz. I am putting a Moose 50T on the rear. I was running 13/52 on my 144cc top end.
 
Why taller gears ? Makes that much more torque. I changed from a 13t to a worn 14T and couldn't even tell difference until I got into the upper gears. And still felt it needed taller gearing. Not a lot of difference in power on top but pulls a bit harder on bottom and mid. Just like you would expect with a 175 over a 125.​

Year & Bike Model = 2011 WR150 with Uptite Husqvarna 167cc kit.​
Carb = 36mm Keihin PWK A/S from 2011 KTM 150XC​
Pipe & Silencer = FMF Fatty WR125 pipe / FMF S/A silencer (going to try a modified FMF KTM 2003-04 SX200 pipe)​
Other engine mods = Exhaust spirngs Stock / silver.​
Premix ratio & fuel type = Maxima K2 @ 40:1, 100LL AvGas / 110 Sunoco race gas mixed 4 gal AvGas to1 gal Race Gas.​
Temperature range (deg F) = 65​
Elevation (feet) = 300ft. to 1,700ft ASL​
Main jet = 170 (144cc = 175)​
Pilot jet = 35​
Needle = NOZH (NOZI stock) (slightly richer needle so I could run on #3 position and keep more needle in needle jet.​
Clip position = #3 NOZH richer than stock NOZI #3​
Air screw setting = 3 (144cc = 2 3/4)​
Slide = 6.0 (stock 7.0)​
CHECK YOUR FLOAT SETTINGS. Mine was too high and overflowing when you hit bumps or slightly leaned the bike over. Set Keihin at 14mm​
No bogs now gone. 21mpg.​
Gearing 14T / 50T Parts Unlimited Xring Chain.​
 
Back
Top