• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Uptite Oil Filler Cap

Pretty sure it's $35-40. I pay cash a lot so I don't have a record of that item. The stainless front wheel bolt was $32.33 incl. tax (Pretty sure, don't want to put the wrong price on George's stuff) so this item should be a little more given the artwork on the top.
 
gandalf;10400 said:
Any harm in asking how much from a few people that have already bought one though? I haven't had a few minutes to call during reasonable phone hours.:cheers:
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Nope, no hram at all...I reposted it as I only posted the P# the first time w/o any text etc :doh:...my bad.

:)
 
pvduke;10571 said:
Nope, no hram at all...I reposted it as I only posted the P# the first time w/o any text etc :doh:...my bad.

:)
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No worries here:thumbsup: I just don't want to bother George with something until I am ready to act.
 
Just got off the phone with George. I ordered my oil filler cap and a HiFlo filter. I tried to get the total from him so I could send a money order out to him today and he said, "Nahh...just write me a check when the UPS guy gets there."

That's some old school jazz right there, baby. I felt like I was back in the 70s :thumbsup: .
 
I used a bigger o-ring and it fixed mine up. This new one sound good but the pictures on here are not working for me. Anyone else?
 
dubbs;27270 said:
...the pictures on here are not working for me. Anyone else?
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Apparently glangston deleted the pics that were being hosted somewhere else, which makes this thread a bit confusing.
 
Not an exact answer but...

I ordered an oil filler cap & a Hi-Flo filter and the bill was $51.25 which including the shipping to Colorado. Shipping was $14 something.
 
So how do I find out about these non leaking oil caps being in oz?
Mine leaks like a sive and I have tried sooo many different o rings its not funny!
 
Put a picture up again (actually a gallery of products). My old site at Road Runner was lost in a make-over.

Uptite
1 714 540-2920
George Erl
 
oilfillcap.jpg
 
The oil filler caps sure are nice. My factory cap didn't leak but I was hanging out at Georges shop a few weeks ago and while we were shooting the breeze he started bolting things on bike.:lol: :lol:
They really are a work of art, just like anything that George make.:thumbsup:
 
What's the percentage rate of always snugging up at the right place so the gunsight is always in the right position?
 
Thorton98;30224 said:
What's the percentage rate of always snugging up at the right place so the gunsight is always in the right position?
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The o-ring is fairly thick with about a 50% compression possibility so if I take the peak to peak thread pitch and divide it by the compressibility factor of the o-ring, no wait a minute I think I have to divide it by the original thickness of the o-ring and factor in the compressibility:confused:. Oh I got it, first I have to establish the initial metal to metal contact point, :thinking: no that probably wont work either unless I can confirm that the leading edge of the first thread is the same on all engine cases.
Oh never mind trying to figure out percentages is just to tough, take my word for it, there isn't going to be an issue until the o-ring becomes hard, squashed and loses it's resiliency. By that time you should replace the o-ring any way.:D
 
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