• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

What Oil do you use?

Puckerbush

Husqvarna
AA Class
I just got my '08 510TE and want to change the oil. I know the specs call for AGIP 10-60w, but I'm having a hard time finding it. What do you recommend?
 
If u can afford it run the motul fully synthetic, dont get too stressed about the numbers though, i have always run 10w40. My motor is very happy. The brand doesnt matter, as long as it is a reputable synthetic motor oil designed for motorcycles that share common oil between engine clutch and gearbox. Change your oil often, change and clean the filters when u do the oil.
 
I run George's brand in 20-50 with my txc. I was very impressed at how much residual oil was still coating the top end after sitting for a week when I removed the valve cover for an adjustment. Kinda like syrup. Didn't see that when I ran rotella 5-40. Not scientific or factual proof of being a better oil but it made me feel all warm inside:DIMG_0267.JPG
 
I just got my '08 510TE and want to change the oil. I know the specs call for AGIP 10-60w, but I'm having a hard time finding it. What do you recommend?
While I agree that the numbers on the front of an oil bottle mean little to nothing, you should still run an oil that has an equivalent or just under the viscosity to what the original manufacture specified for your engine. You could pour baby oil in your engine and it would run, maybe even for hundreds of miles, but it would wear much faster. I have posted a link below which has an oil analysis for AGIP 10-60w and shows what the viscosity should be and what he has.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/agip-10w60.14945/
 
Motul 5100 semi syn-10/50. Run it over 5 Huskies a great mid priced oil. Most of us change oils every 300 to 500 kms. This means the expesive addatives for the top shelf oils have not really been tapped into meaning it is a premium price for no benefit. I will qualify that from a trail riding perspective only.
 
TE511 manual says to use Castrol GPS 10w-40, so that's what I used for break-in oil.
Now that's over, I will use Motul 5100 10w-40.
Have been using the Motul for 10 or 12 years in a bunch of different bikes.
My local Husky dealer had it on sale 1/2 price last summer, think I bought 10 gallons of the stuff.
Even with 5 bikes in the garage, that should last me a while.

But really, any good quality oil that is not" energy conserving " should be fine.
My buddy, a Honda mechanic, uses Rotella T in everything he owns.
 
Motul, Moterex, Maxima, Spectro... any good Synthetic is what I would recommend if you don't mind splurging on oil for your Bad Moto Scooter.
Given the fact that you only need a liter in most cases, two at most it's well worth it. Not everyone is of this mindset and as much as I like to save
money (not rich) I just can't see myself buying oil for my bike at Walmart. Not discounting anyone else's view on oil or looking to spark a debate so
I'll just kindly shut my piehole and just say change it often.:D
 
Here is the performance data sheet for the above Motul 7100 10w60. It's even Husky red.

Colour Visual Red
Viscosity grade SAE J 300 10W-60
Density at 20°C (68°F) ASTM D1298 0.860
Viscosity at 40°C (104°F) ASTM D445 156.1 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) ASTM D445 24.0 mm²/s

http://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/2677/7100_10W-60_4T_(GB).pdf?1302119030

My buddy, a Honda mechanic, uses Rotella T in everything he owns.
On a side note, I was at the races last weekend and I watched a pro pour Walmart Rotella into his race bike and then later hand out his sponsor's name brand oil to passing fans. Haha
 
I use Motorex in all my bikes but then again, I work for Lube-Tech and Motorex USA.

There is plenty of misconception out there about oil and the additives they use, etc. You should always run synthetic for motor oil. Castor oil (from the castor bean) is actually a very good, if not the best two stroke oil. I ran exclusively Castor oil in my son's racing kart that revved at 14.5K RPM. Did a top end after each season and everything was always within spec.
 
The stuff I work on runs at 60K plus RPM and rums as high as 800C, synthetic is our only choice ;) .
 
Mobil1 15w50, changed every 1000 miles (2 quart sump), this oil kept my bike from seizing up when the rads were dry and I rode 50 miles home at 65 mph, the high heat incident damaged some rubber parts, but the engine has been running great for almost 5000 miles since that high heat incident.
 
I currently use Amsoil 20-50 in both of our txc's. When I run out of it I plan to check into Mobil 15-50. Is that the bottle with the silver cap? I used to run the red cap for years before they changed it.
 
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