• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Wheel Bearing Question ?

I was checking out an exploded view of a hub in the parts list and forgot about the distance spacer thats between the bearings inside the hub. It makes it pretty much impossible to press out the first wheel bearing via the outside race. I was picturing case bearings when thinking of removing a bearing by pressing the outside race.
the distance spacer isnt the problem, after sliding out the spacer and foam, the hub itself is in the way of the viewing the outer race. the bearing must sit against the hub and be located somehow. the distance spacer is only to keep the inner races where they should be in relation to the outer races when the axle is tightened.
 
all you can do and its what I do is slide a punch in through the spacer and slightly off set it so you can tap on the inner race and by swapping sides work the bearing out.?
 
I only ever need to remove them when they are stuffed so its not really an issue to "knock them out" via the inner race.
 
you can remove them without damage
not that you need to,, as you can remove the outer seal
but to remove a bearing the spacer has a foam ring, from the opposite side push it off center and use a puller, if you use a puller instead of impact you can pull it from the center race with no damage
just FYI
 
I've got an inexpensive blind bearing puller set with a slide hammer (from Harbor Freight). Using it as designed is a royal PITA. I leave the slide hammer in the case, insert and tighten the puller/plug, heat it for a bit with a propane plumbing torch, flip over the wheel, set it on a bucket, grab my longest socket extension, put the small end through the center of the wheel, and then whack it with a 24 oz framing hammer. I've gotten 30+ year-old bearings out with a single whack (on my Kawasaki w/ alloy wheels, I wouldn't suggest going for a one-whack extraction with spokes). By far the easiest way I've found for removing wheel bearings. The wide side of the socket extension is wide enough to span the inner race, so you just flip the wheel insert the socket extension wide side down and hammer it to remove the second bearing. If the wide end isn't too wrecked, you can use a second/shorter socket extension through the center race of the second bearing to keep it centered.

The slide hammer and one of the larger plugs can be useful for removing seals quickly and easily.

It does do a little bit of damage to the socket extension and bearing puller/plug thing. The socket extension is cheap enough that it has only one job. The puller/plug can be cleaned up every once in a while with a file or cutting wheel on a dremel tool.

Definitely replace the bearings and seals afterwards.
 
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