• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st WHY CHANGE FROM MIKUNI TMX38

john01 said:
Great advice. I read that: If you are less than 1 turn out on the PJ to go down on PJ size and more than 3 turns out go up on PJ size. Is this info correct?
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WRONG you have that backwards. The PWK has a AIR SCREW not FUEL MIXURE SCREW. So the further out you get on air screw the leaner the mixture. The more in you go the richer the mixture.
 
If you had the old 125 with a TMX and not the TMXX Id say switch to the PWK with a 250 Id say if you want more bottom end and maybe lose a little top end then go with a PWK .
If you are a trail rider or do more technical riding then the PWK - if you do motocross - Mikuni.

I am not a big fan of the JD needles and maybe you could try original specs - and start from scratch . Ive never seen anyone with JD needle in a Mikuni.
 
Vinduro said:
WRONG you have that backwards. The PWK has a AIR SCREW not FUEL MIXURE SCREW. So the further out you get on air screw the leaner the mixture. The more in you go the richer the mixture.
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Isn't that what John just said without saying richer or leaner?
 
My 2008 cr 144 with tmx works great on motocross track now. Just took a little jetting might need a little ajustment if there is a big temp change.
 
Thanks Vinduro I didn't know the two carbs were different in that way. I just wrote down what I read on the jetting section in TT.
 
john01 said:
Thanks Vinduro I didn't know the two carbs were different in that way. I just wrote down what I read on the jetting section in TT.
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It was part my fault. I wrote that my airscrew was unresponsive clear out to 2 3/4 turns and I changed the pilot and it fell in the middle without specifying wether it was rich or lean so I think I misled you, sorry about that. Backing out the air screw gives the mixture more air, going to a larger pilot# gives it more fuel.
 
lankydoug said:
It was part my fault. I wrote that my airscrew was unresponsive clear out to 2 3/4 turns and I changed the pilot and it fell in the middle without specifying wether it was rich or lean so I think I misled you, sorry about that. Backing out the air screw gives the mixture more air, going to a larger pilot# gives it more fuel.
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On BOTH carbs. A 4 stroke carb usually has a fuel mixture screw instead of a air mixture screw. The way to tell which it is is position of the screw. Air mixture screws are always on the back side of the carb, usually on the side. Fuel mixture screws are toward the front . Usually underneath.
 
Humm... thanks learn something everyday. Now I need to go out to the garage and look at the CR144 and 2010 Husky TC250 to put it all together. Good info.
 
lankydoug said:
Is your air screw responsive when you make small adjustments? With a 30 pilot mine was not (all the way out to 2 3/4) so I went to a 35 pilot and the sweet spot was around 1 1/2 turns out. Now it is very responsive to even 1/8th of a turn and a lot more crisp on the low end. I'm using the stock needle so it may be a little different than the JD components that you are using but it seems that 2 1/4 turns out is on the edge of telling you that a pilot change might be an improvement.
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My Bike was tuned by a mate who is a pro superbike racer, he also owns a 2010 WR300. My bike is a 2008 WR250 which produced more power on the dyno, than my mates 2010 WR300. However, my bike rides like an MX 250 being a real difficult bike to ride on tight slow tracks.

Bike will run all day WOT, but on the tight stuff it will foul plugs. The slide I am currently running is for the polution gear, and the bike has no polution gear fitted. I am about to retune the bike with the carb TMX38 from a 2010 WR300.

The carb on the 2008 model has different internals. Well, I'm sure I will be on the money, with a new carb and #5, #7 slides to play with.

I will post an up date once bike has been retuned

Regards
 
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