As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
you ensure your chain is at the correct tension, you need to compress the suspension so the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle are in line with each other. this is when your chain is at its tightest. here is where you set your tension, ensuring its not too tight or too loose.
when i get a new chain, im going to check the bike manual to make sure i do it right.
I'm off road only on the 610 and I leave my chain on the loose side. I can make it touch the swing arm where the plastic chain guide ends at the bottom. I also had a 50 t rear sprocket, with a smaller one ( 45 t ) it would touch easy. If your pulling the chain tight, that's no good!
I dont pull it tight. i always make sure that there is the amount of slack that the manual says to have. i just find i have to keep adjusting it all the time.
thats weird that the manual says to do it that way...
its weird it tells you to check it unloaded..all my manuals for the bikes in my signature say to check it when the chain is at its tightest, that way you know if its too tight or not...i just thought it was odd it tells you to maintain a certain clearance when the bike is unloaded, which is something the bike doesnt experience when its actually ridden...but hey, if the manual states that, there must be a reason
no offense to you dirty kid, its good you are asking about it, instead of ignoring it like many seem to do...
when and if you replace your chain, buy good quality and you will have a better experience. imho, a chain is not the place to skimp. my oem chain on my 88 xc250 stretched every good ride..i put a good tsubaki om it and never regretted the 120 dollars
It's likely a OEM CZ chain and they aren't that good. Get a Renthal, D.I.D or the like 520 chain and you'll be all set. Make sure to put the clip on the right way if you use a clip master link.
MCSS has an extra 10% off sale going on right now for DID, good 'till EOM.
MCSS has an extra 10% off sale going on right now for DID, good 'till EOM.
MCSS has an extra 10% off sale going on right now for DID, good 'till EOM.
its weird it tells you to check it unloaded..all my manuals for the bikes in my signature say to check it when the chain is at its tightest, that way you know if its too tight or not...
i just thought it was odd it tells you to maintain a certain clearance when the bike is unloaded, which is something the bike doesnt experience when its actually ridden...