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Widest valve clearance discovered during 1st valve adjustment?

withiam

withiam

Husqvarna
AA Class
I am seriously considering checking my valves at 300 miles instead of waiting to the 620 mile mark. It is a 2009 SM610.
Engine seems to be noisier since I started the break in process. I am at the 300 mile mark.
Anyone else do this based on what they felt was a noisy engine? I have read a few posts on the engine becoming considerably quieter after the valve adjustment. What were the clearances before the first valve check? Anything excessive?
 
From the shop manual:
Use a feeler gauge to make sure clearance is 0.10-0.15 mm on the INTAKE side
and 0.15-0.20 mm on the EXHAUST side.
Click to expand...

That's 0.004"-0.006" on the intake and 0.006"-0.008" on the exhaust.

Mine was still a bit clattery at ~1000 miles, so I checked and went up one size on one exhaust that was reading ~0.009" and it quieted down a bit. It would have probably seated eventually on it's own, but I was already in there anyway.
 
Hmmm? My owners manual states .002" for both intake and exhaust valves cold. Am I to assume you have a 630? Mine is a 610.
 
Your correct .002 on TE/SM610e models .They do tick a bit roller rockers just make a little noise.We noticed the 2006/7 bikes were spot on but almost all of 2008/9 610s were a bit loose and noisy until first service.It really hurts nothing you could run them at .006 forever and it would never hurt it.We always hand tension the cam chain at 600miles and grease the countershaft splines real good.
 
Loose valve clearance just means the valves won't open quite as far as they should. You might lose some power, but you won't damage the engine.

I can't recall how much out of tolerance mine were when I had to adjust them. I checked them at 600, 3000, 6000 and 9000 miles. I had to swap out 3 of the shims at 6000 miles (they were loose). That's all the adjustment I have done.

Now, if your valve clearances get too tight, you can do some damage. Valves may open too far, and not fully close. I bet you'd have to have them way out of spec for any real damage to occur, though.
 
I appreciate the feedback.
Would like to know more about this statement:
"We always hand tension the cam chain at 600 miles and grease the countershaft splines real good."

What is involved. I've been turning wrenches most of my life in one capacity or another.
Is this something I could tackle myself?
 
Yes, you can absolutely do it yourself.

1. Remove the tank. You don't need to drain the gas -- just be ready with some appropriately sized vacuum plugs to cap the quick disconnect fittings on the tank. You will also need to remove a breather hose or two and the oil line at the top of the engine (you do NOT need to drain the oil).
2. Remove the fasteners holding the radiators on -- you can choose to completely drain and remove the radiators if you like or you can simply pull them back and hold them with bungie cords. See the pics in this thread about 2/3 of the way down.

http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?47453-Be-Honest.....&highlight=610 valve adjustment

3. Remove the spark plug.
4. Remove the valve window covers. I use a 1/4 inch drive u-joint adapter socket to get to these bolts because the space is tight and you cannot get at them straight on.
5. Find TDC by looking at where both the exhaust and intake valves are closed. You can do this by putting the bike in 6th gear and rotating the rear wheel (you should have the bike on a stand). You can stick a long straw into the spark plug hole (do NOT use a piece of wood -- it can break and get stuck inside the cylinder) and watching for when the piston is rising and hits the highest point and the intake and exhaust valves are close. You don't have to be exact -- there is enough rotation at the top where both intake and exhaust are closed that you don't have to exact.
6. Use a Motion Pro feeler gauge http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0392/

You can see from this photo where to insert it.

001-5.jpg


Loosen the jam lock nut and adjust the valve with a small flat head screw driver. You should not need to make large adjustments at all. Doing a little math here, assume the pitch on the threads on the adjuster are 1mm. 10 degrees of rotation of the adjuster would give you about 0.001 inch. So you should not need to rotate any more than 10-20 degrees at most. The 0.002 should be snug and the 0.003 should not pass at all. Unfortunately the process of tightening the jam nut also changes the adjustment so check after you lock it down and you might have to iterate.
 
Circus,

I appreciate the play by play for the valve adjustment. I have a set of Motion Pro feeler gauges. Used them on my DR650. That was a relative easy bike to wrench on compared to the 610.
I need to dig further for the hand tensioning procedure of the cam chain.
 
withiam said:
Circus,

I appreciate the play by play for the valve adjustment. I have a set of Motion Pro feeler gauges. Used them on my DR650. That was a relative easy bike to wrench on compared to the 610.
I need to dig further for the hand tensioning procedure of the cam chain.
Click to expand...
I thought I read somewhere that the CCT from the DR was the one people used for a manual CCT on the 610. Maybe a bit of fabing had to happen, but I'm pretty sure it's the DR CCT you want.
 
withiam said:
Circus,

I appreciate the play by play for the valve adjustment. I have a set of Motion Pro feeler gauges. Used them on my DR650. That was a relative easy bike to wrench on compared to the 610.
I need to dig further for the hand tensioning procedure of the cam chain.
Click to expand...
I just saw you said you wanted the procedure. I've been told to put the auto CCT in and ride around, measure it and transfer that to the manual and back of a hair. It's something you have to get a feel for.
 
It is still all greek to me (the CCT not the valve adjustment). I'm learning more about this bike all the time. I have it apart just to see what I have to deal with. I've got to hand it to Husqvarna. They have engineered the shit out of this thing. There is a lot going on under the gas tank. A lot to learn but that is the whole idea. I'm going to hold off on the valve adjustment. She has only 300 miles on her. A few more thermal cycles can't hurt.
The replies are appreciated.
 
They call for checking the valves at 600 miles, so you have time. The CCT is not worth a thought at 300 miles unless you do plan on installing a MCCT.
 
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