• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Will rekluse make a clutch package for my 11 tc 449

My personal experience is that it required constant adjustment - that being said mine was on a RFS. I moved to Rekluse at that point and never looked back. With this current generation Rekluse (the EXP) I ran an entire season without popping off the clutch cover - then ran a second season and did the same. The guy I sold the bike to has had it for two years and mentioned that he hasn't yet touched it. Four+ years without a problem is pretty darn amazing.

The major downside of the EFM is that you lose the clutch. Even the squishy Rekluse clutch was a nice option. Now the Rekluse clutch feels almost perfectly stock. I simply would not ride a bike without a clutch override. I didnt know that when I bought the EFM and sold it after about 6 months.


I hear ya on that one.
Feel like being tricked by Garry actually who did not say that the te449 was one of few models where u can not keep your stock clutch lever.
Also got screwed to pay almost twice the price he asks for it, due to a mistake they did when shipping it to me. Impossible to fix after also,
so this EFM clutch has cost me +1100 bucks so far... :-(
Had he said that I would not be able to keep the stock clutch lever I would not have bought the bike from the start.
Now I just hope I can get the EFM clutch working fine without the clutch lever.
Anyone got any install pictures or hints on setup etc, please share.

I will take pictures and share my install once I have dynoed the bike so I can put the clutch on. Guessing in about 4-5 weeks, since we still have snow here.

Rob
 
Wow...what's the story on paying $1100? That really sucks.

I haven't looked in a while, but there was one on here in the classifieds for around $400 or so - I think it was a month back.

If Rekluse made an EXP for the 449/511 I would buy one in a heartbeat - heck I almost thought about getting 20 people here together with $100 deposits and that would cover Rekluse's need to crank out a 449/511 solution.

But, the clutch on my bike has been flawless and the bike hooks up so darn reliably, that I am enjoying the bike as-is. I have foudn that I can lug the 449 WAY lower than any other race bike I have owned - it lugs as well as my RFS motors would. I loved lugging the old KTMs so slow that the auto decompressor starting clanking - yet they kept on cranking. Husky/BMW did a fine job with my current setup IMO.
 
I think you could find 20 people no problem.

I agree with you on the clutch. When I think about what single aspect of these 449 511 bikes do I like the best, clutch is #1, hillclimbing traction is probably #2 and brakes are probably #3. Best clutch feel and engagement by far above anything I have ever felt. Unless you are riding nasty, 1st gear, ledgy enduro rock climbing etc (which I do), there really isn't a need for an autoclutch.
 
Some interesting reading here. I would love an auto clutch setup on my 511.

Any further updates on the EFM setup?
 
i test rode a Clake mark 2 setup and fell in love with it. Feels like a Auto clutch but with way more Control. Next thing i will install.

ps. who else got clutch drag and a hard time finding neutral. I am already running 5w40 oil 300v from Motul. Plus i do have the Midwest mountain Clutch lever installed . Which is a great add on for the bike.
 
ps. who else got clutch drag and a hard time finding neutral. I am already running 5w40 oil 300v from Motul. Plus i do have the Midwest mountain Clutch lever installed . Which is a great add on for the bike.

Mate, the clutch drag on my bike is shocking. A real pain to find neutral too. It almost always stalls when I select 1st gear after a cold start. I use whatever Motul oil my local dealer put in. I've ordered some Mobil 1 0W-40 from the States & hope this will make a slight improvement?
 
Mate, the clutch drag on my bike is shocking. A real pain to find neutral too. It almost always stalls when I select 1st gear after a cold start. I use whatever Motul oil my local dealer put in. I've ordered some Mobil 1 0W-40 from the States & hope this will make a slight improvement?

My drag was bad too. Cold really hard to find neutral. Plus it makes it hard to start the bike when you stalled it.
 
I love my 11 tc 449 I ride it on all different types of terrain. I find myself riding mostly tight single track trail riding and as much as I love clutching all day in the tight stuff my hand and wrist take a beating through out the day. (Doesn't help I broke my wrist 15 years ago and never healed properly.) Does anyone know if rekluse will make a clutch for the tc 449. I rode with an older guy on a ktm with rekluse and he made all the hill climbs and hard tight trails look easy. Ok what I'm trying to say is I'm a lazy rider and I would love a get rid of the massive arm pump I get on my left hand/arm, I can deal with it but if I didn't have to clutch every five seconds the ride would be much more enjoyable for me and my wrist.



http://www.clake.com.au/pricing.html .Try these guys I run one of there clutch levers on my bike and AWESOME one finger pull and super soft clutch even my 94yr old gran could use this clutch.
 
Ummm glad my stock clutch works fine. I'm sure the AUTO clutch is great, but I came up fanning and jamming on 2 strokes and content with mine. Luckily it doesn't drag, engages well, and doesn't seem to overheat.

And sorry, but $1100 to give up the clutch lever...that's a negative.
 
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I love my 11 tc 449 I ride it on all different types of terrain. I find myself riding mostly tight single track trail riding and as much as I love clutching all day in the tight stuff my hand and wrist take a beating through out the day. (Doesn't help I broke my wrist 15 years ago and never healed properly.) Does anyone know if rekluse will make a clutch for the tc 449. I rode with an older guy on a ktm with rekluse and he made all the hill climbs and hard tight trails look easy. Ok what I'm trying to say is I'm a lazy rider and I would love a get rid of the massive arm pump I get on my left hand/arm, I can deal with it but if I didn't have to clutch every five seconds the ride would be much more enjoyable for me and my wrist.


alarenzoTC449 I believe you have have your options and there are pro's and conds to both.

Con's would be price.
Pro's would be power to the ground would be more responsive and better throttle control , you would not loss power when gears are changed in your rpm's .
One way to look at this is to look at a drag car they are always Auto's why because they dont loss RPM AND POWER to the ground.
 
Ahh, but they still have a way to control that clutch with either foot or hands control. And they also adjust them to basically destroy themselves on each run trying to dance the line between max power and wheel spin.

Not bashing, I get the concept, but having never ridden a bike with one they just seem awful expensive, but I'm a cheap SOB.
 
I've got my EFM running nicely. It's not plug and play, so expect to spend some time on set up. The instructions are terrible and it's up to you to figure out how it works and the best way to adjust it.

Robster and I have been trading set up and installation tips and we will combine our experiences together to help future EFMers figure it out.
 
I will post mine and N4544D:s discussion and setup tips as soon as I have removed the unnessessary info in it. =)
 
Sorry. Been busy and just have not had the energy to sum it up.
The EFM clutch works superb when working. Took some time to set it up, since me and Garry got on the wrong foot. But got absolute class A help from N4544D that shipped me what Garry refused to ship. Got the thing running really well and was very happy with it. Then it broke down on me. To Garry and EFMs defence I will say that he/they have upgraded the design and so far I have not heard of anyone having any trouble with the new upgraded design. As of now I am waiting for Garry to ship a replacement clutch (lifetime warranty on material and workmanship). I have not received it yet (I do not know if he as sent me a replacement yet), but I will let you know about it as soon as I have received it. I will mount it asap and will let you know if it works as good as the one I had that broke down on me. IF you buy a EFM which I would recommend actually, just make sure u get a upgraded version. I am almost sure Garry will not ship any old ones, but just to be sure.
 
Mine is working great as well...I have the updated one. The difference is the length of screws used to hold the autoclutch body to the inner clutch hub. He has also increased the depth of the ball channels so they should be less susceptible to dirt and grime getting embedded in the channels. Use 4 balls, adjust to 050 inch (which takes 4-5 washers) and set up the wave washers in this manner working from bottom to top: |(((|((| This seems to be the consensus.
 
Got word from Garry that he posted my updated clutch yesterday. Gonna be interesting to mount it as soon as I get it.
Since I also will use my clutch with my Timbersled Mountain Horse track kit, I think I will have to go with 5 balls to get a real firm engagement
without any slipping after engagement. Or do you N4544D think 4 balls will be enough even for me? Running with track kit in snow is like
running in deep dirt/mud and one do not want any slipping after engagement point so to speak. When I hade a Rekluse z-start pro on my last bike
I switched out 3 balls to tungsten balls to get a firm engagement, so need a bit more than only for dirt riding.

Rob
 
5 balls would be unsymmetrical, so not sure if that would be an issue. When I used 6 balls, the engagement may have been too abrupt for the clutch and it would chatter at low RPM. You can certainly try it, but I would suspect it might overwhelm the clutch. I'd try 4 balls first and see if it works for you. You could always just go back to manual clutch during the winter as I am sure you have quite a bit of practice switching the clutch out like I do :)
 
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