• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR clutch fade

MOTORHEAD said:
Somebody turned me on to a trick that works pretty well. It's doesn't totally elimentate the problem, but makes the clutch pull a little easier and somewhat less prone to the fade issue.

Take the cable loose so that the arm on the case is free. Open the clutch cover and adjust all but 3mm of slack from the arm with the rod adjuster. You want 3mm for free play at the arm before you feel it touch the pressure plate. Then reinstall the cable, but you will have to loosen the adjust way up to get it to fit again.

This works by changing the leverage ration on the flat of the arm that pushes the rod. You're taking advantage of the maximum amount of leverage the arm has on the push rod.

There's still a huge amount of draw up in the cable before you really get good action, so you can run the cable a lot tighter than you would on a Jap bike. Basically zero free play at the lever, because you have so much draw up in the stock cable and a much longer arm.
Click to expand...

That's what l did when l installed my MSR raptor lever, three test rides up and down the street to get the correct amount of free play from both the lever and push rod 1) Clutch slippage because l had 1mm of pushrod freeplay, 2) Readjust pushrod again becuase l had zero play at the clutch lever end when l adjusted the lever to the correct position and 3) Exactly as you described adjusted the lever to the position I like it to be (lever closer to the grip), three turns out on the clutch lever adjuster and then take up the slack at the pushrod end.

The clutch pull feel's like a hydraulic clutch now and 1000x better response than the old setup (e.g feathering) .. so long as l lube the cable with silicone spray (CRC, Inox and WD attracts too much dust)...whooohooo!!
 
Thanks for posting that motorhead. I'm going to adjust mine and see if it improves.... which I think it will.
Sounds similar to how Banshee clutches get adjusted.
 
6 months later......

Thanks for posting this!
I finally got tired of the sloppy shifting on my wr and adjusted it as you described and it feels mucho better. I dont have to drag the lever all the way to the bars to get to the engagement point anymore and it makes things feel more lively. I like it :thumbsup:

It's still dropping out of 2ng gear once in a while and the 1-2 shift feels funky, so I assume that's the star shifter mechanism behind the clutch working loose. But that's no fault of the clutch. Thanks again.
 
I am still running my stock plates in my 07 and have ridden tight stuff since new and never had a problem, I would say I have over 200 hours on the bike. I would say I abuse the clutch too as far as set up goes I just run my adjustment how I like the feel, guide lines are only guide lines.
I also run 2.5 weight oil in my forks:eek:
 
1. I was hanging around the red bull tent at a Budd’s Creek race about 8 years ago and one of the mechanics told me that a little trick they use. They mix the recommended oil with automobile automatic transmission fluid at a 50/50 mix..I did this with my 2000 KTM 300 for years and never replaced the clutch or experienced any fade at all.
 
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