I have a 08 SMR510 that sputters pops backfires etc while cruising. It starts and idles fine and when it starts acting up ill punch it and it seems fine wide open, slow back down to cruising and it acts up again. Any ideas? I'm afraid to ride it far because I don't want it to break down. This is a real bummer as I just got it and haven't been able to really enjoy it. It has pu kit arrow pipe filter but other then that its stock with 2320 miles.
http://www.powercommander.com/power...01&yr=2009&pc=23-009&mk-n=Husqvarna&mdl-n=510 models&pc-ver=PCV&add-mdlyrid=23-009&add-mdlyrid2=23-004&fullstr=23-00423-009&prod-type=Powercommander VPowercommander V (Fuel and Ignition)
Tepco is gonna start with changing out the fuel filter, and go from there, his sputtering and backfiring at cruising speed with clearing out on big throttle matched my symptoms almost exactly. If that bike was manufactured in Sep of 2007, the original OEM filter could be 5 years old, with only 500 miles a year, that's alot of goopy gas.
Just to give an update, the fuel filter didn't help the problem, but testing it led me to a repeatable step that causes the missing popping. It seems that when I turn it off and restart it, it reverts to running like crap. Any ideas?
Check the coil connections- mainly that the coil bolts are cleanly grounded to the frame and not loosening up.
So ride it, get it running really good, and then stop, turn it off, and then turn it right back on and take off. Does it run bad or run good? I am trying to see if the key off/key on is what is making it run bad, or is it the stopping and and starting up again is making it run bad. Another test, get it running good, stop but dont turn it off, let it idle until the fan comes on, then take off again, does it run good or run bad?
I will do both and report back. I rode it around until the fan went on and have stopped at lights and it didn't change. Ill do that again then the key off then on to see if either triggers it. Ill report back, this evening if the weather cooperates.
If it is running good, and stopping and idling doesn't cause the gas tank/fuel pump to heat up and seize, then it's probably not the fuel pump. When you ride it, and it's running good, stop off to the side, and kill the bike with the kill button, and leave the key switch alone. Wait 2 minutes and set the kill button to RUN (pump should prime strongly) and take off, does it run bad then? (trying to see if the key switch is shorting out when switched back and forth) You can also wiggle the key switch while riding at steady RPM, don't turn it off, just wiggle it a bit.
Ok, finally got a break in the weather to take it out. Here are my findings. All restarts were done at my house with cables hooked up to eliminate a weak battery, except last start as noted. 1. Rode 7 miles ran great, stopped and let it idle until the fan came on, took off all good. 2. Rode 2 miles back to the house, turned it off by the button and left key on. Waited 3 minutes and started it back up again, rode it, a minor pop but nothing significant. 3. Rode it back home turned it off by the key waited a minute and restarted it, hard to start, cranked a bunch to start but fired up it started twice and cut off, then ran ok some popping but very minor. 4. Stopped again tried to start it under its own power and had to kick it, but started after a few kicks (never kicked a big 4 I'm an old school 2 stroke guy. I did notice before starting it on #3 I checked battery voltage with key and bike off and it was 14.3 volts. It peaked my curiosity so when I got back home and checked charging voltage at 4k rpm it was 13.8? I then checked the voltage after i shut it off and it was 13.1. These seem like odd numbers to me. I'm going to pull the tank and check all connections as advised. EDIT: I also wiggled the key while riding with no issue.
There was a thread somewhere else about a guy with a funny voltage problem, like it was good at idle and good at high RPM but bad in the middle. I will look for it.
I found it, it was MikeB and it was the battery. I know my battery is on its way out so I'm in the market for one to fix that. Here is a link to his thread LINK
This is stumping me. I got a reading of 1.400k ohms resistance from the coolant sensor. That may be it, I also got a reading of 20.9k ohms from the Secondary winding resistance of the coil. (The coil is still mounted to the bike with the plug wire removed for testing.)
Just an update, fuel pressure is good never dropping below 40-45psi when problem is occurring. Stator, coil, and pick up coil all test good. Fan comes on normally, new fuel filter.
I got a fuel pump pressure gauge and some 5/16 fuel injection line and hooked it up between the tank and throttle body. Got the gauge from harbor freight.
Yep the gauge came with a T I just clamped the hose on to the quick connects, there is a lip for the quick connect to click on to, make sure you get the hose over that and clamp it there or it will slide off. Don't break the L connection at the tank in the process.
Hopefully you figure this out soon because my bike is the same year and model and is doing EXACTLY the same thing. Hurry up and figure it out man I need to ride. LOL.
I'm working on it. Although I dont think its the problem, I put in a new coolant sensor because of the known problems. Mine seems to test in the range of good when cold, but I didn't test it when it was hot. Halls said they had problems with the black ones and the new ones are white, just something to think about it was $14. Ill ride it this evening when I get home and post progress.
I know you said you tested the coil- but did you ever check/clean the coil connections? Once upon a time my bike acted simular (like it had a revlimiter at 6000 rpm and would stall alot but intermittant)- it was due to loose and dirty coil ground (bolts to frame)
