2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

Just a quick Description from the Side... and most of us are not even aware of.

The red line is the Ecu controlled (FBW) Butterfly. Opens after Engine Start just a little bit.
The Green line is the Cable controlled MAIN Butterfly which also Controls fuel injection.

When u twist the throttle , the red one reacts delayed ..... and slower then your twist action. Through that setup limit of Airflow , the smooth Power delivery is achieved .
But when twist the throttle svereal times, every now and then , the upper one is just about to close when u open up the Main Butterfly . Thats the moment when u get the Dead Throttle.

So just Remove the Butterfly marked RED without touching the Shaft.

Then when you look at the Yellow CAM like part, this is the shaft which is ECU Controlled and turns very delayed and not really accurate in regards of quick response.
But this Cam also holds your MAIN Butterfly open when going Downhill or releasing throttle. Means less Engine Braking.
Other Bike Brands don't use the Double Flap Throttle Body.
Single Butterfly controlled by Cable.
Better Engine Braking and snappier response.

DANGERMOUSSE is talking about removing the BANANA Shape link, which is in direct Contact to your CAble controlled flap...

i hope this Picture helps by identifying the flap you have to remove.

Looks like a button cell holder like what would be used in a PC might do the trick. Depending on what voltage is required for the memory backup. At a guess, I wouldn't expect more than a 3v cell. might have to do some googling

I would imagine it'll be 12v, the same as system voltage. It would not be able to be'charged' by the system or it will fail...part of the reason I left it alone.
that, and as I said, my new bike battery fixed mine anyhow.

Yes - Correct. (Watching the 2 throttle shafts was how I first decided the FBW throttle was the problem)

I have a (bad) habit of blipping the throttle before opening it up sometimes, that's when it stalls......

The top butterfly is the FBW one & the only one to remove. The bent link as 9880STS noted has stopped my ecu having any idle control & so fixed my hanging idle faults -

All for free

Ok.. to make things easy..
I just removed the STUD with Roller which is triggered by the CAM . Thats the CAM from the Shaft with the FBW Butterfly.

Now with the Stud removed you have full Engine braking..

Just as a TC Model.

and the Response from the Engine to come back to idle speed is amazing...

I will posy a small Video , were you can see how the Cam would move the Throttle when idling up. Or just like going downhill.

I was out afterwards for 15 min and i am stoked with the Engine braking.

With removing just the little Roller stud, you dont have to measure anything. If you don't feel Comfortable with it, just put it back in place and put a little spot weld on it.

here a short video after the modification...


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNsV112yCeA&feature=youtu.be

Do you have to remove the stud or just the FBW Butterfly? and should i do this mod if im going to hook up a PCV?

How hard was it removing the roller stud thing? Filed off the head? Only asking because I have limited tools.

12mm spanner to open the Nut and remove the Lever assembly.
behind the assembly you find he throttle spring. There is only one position when u put it back... so no worries .
i used a cordless angle grinder to grind away the rivet part. Then i took a Pin Punch to knock it out. Just find a spot with a 8mm socket to hold against it... wasnt to hard. Split a chain link apart is much harder.

You could use any small Grinder. And if u have someone to give you a hand, u might could even do it without removing the Lever itself...

i've asked about the 2nd butterfly for long time and finally someone did it :-) I had a FZ1 as some stage and there the butterfly was just made smaller insted of fullt remove them. That was for same reason, better throttle response.

I just did this mod, it wasn't that hard. The hardest part was getting the intake boot back into the airbox.
I also removed the little nub that controls the primary throttle. Started up the bike and rode around the yard, no problems, seems good so far.

Nice work!

I will do this to mine too now that I'm convinced I won't be going back to the original set-up.

I removed my one as a unit in case I had to restore it to factory, that won't be happening for sure, so I will re-install it as above.

Good mod. as the original throttle spring cup is on that plate, so no problems with sticking/jammed throttles.


(The back of the arm showing spring cup)

I couldn't find any other bikes with this crazy setup, but there you go, FZ1 Yamis had them too. (See pic)

I still can't think why, other than emissions.... a horrid idea Keihin!

If you are going to run two throttle plates, do them in parallel at least, in series is just stupid.

Why allow manual control & then put FBW in as well, one or the other!!

I would first get the software updated in the ECU (Husky race pipe map) & see how it is for you then.

Then if you're going to fit a PCV anyway, maybe try it first standard as I imagine the delivered mapping would have been set up on a bike that was unmodified.




My other mods were done for a bike that didn't respond to all the resets, map changes etc. & still had idle problems.

I would only modify the throttle arm/stud if the idle is hanging on your bike.

For my bike I removed the butterfly plate from the FBW throttle to stop the flame-outs on cracked throttle.



Crisper response was a great by-product!!

I never noticed the lack of engine breaking until taking off the stud. Much nicer now

Mine would run on, maybe 3 or 4 times a ride usually after a flame-out, so bad that I crashed the bike several times!!

It would hold roughly 4000 rpm, several times in a row, then return to normal again, then come back later in the day.

Very dangerous where we ride, steep hills with rocks & erosion channels in them, lined with trees.

You would approach flat out along a fast trail at the top, cut the throttle & get NO engine braking!!

Scary Sh#t man!!

same me.... and this is about the only one beside a Te 449 and 511.

Please to all who did or going to do the modification... please leave a feedback how you go.
Especially with the battery replacement.

cheers

Replaced my battery with a lithium cell one, months ago. Definitely starts better in all scenarios.

I got my FBW butterfly out over the weekend, and lucky my neighbour has a small grinder, so the "stud" will be machined off this coming weekend.

I have an earthx battery and it does start better, but not always. The odometer still resets.