I'd agree with that too. But it is an SM and not a TE. I picked the bike that will do what I want which is be a hooligan machine and not very many intentional water crossings or enduro runs are in my future. The PCV and the AT make concerns about mapping the ECU a thing of the past.
PCV/Autotune sounds great on paper, but does the Autotune ever call a mapping "good enough" and quit updating? If it's a continuous thing, isn't there the possibility of it making the wrong decision? I write software for a living; I know nobody's perfect. In every PowerCommander thread that pops up on every riding forum, there are always several people that are having trouble with it. I'm not a big fan of creating more work for myself. I want to install something and forget about it. I don't have time for headaches.
So far mine has been running flawlessly. Its true that it is always "tweaking" and if you write code for a living I'm sure you've heard of the ID10T error? Most of the time it's not the code or the hardware its the nut playing with the hardware and thinks they know the software thats causing the problems. The AT is as if its constantly on a dyno and Mr. Man is constantly tweaking your AFR. You just tell the AT that you want a target AFR of 12.8 and it makes and stores the changes you need to get there in a trim table based on your correction level criteria. At the end of the day you can either accept the trim table data and apply it to your AFR map or if you're not happy with it you can clear the table adjust your target AFR and try again. At first I set my target AFR to 12.8 and my correction level to 50% and it made some very serious changes which made some huge improvements. Then I dialed it back to only 20% and now I'm down to 10% and looking at opening my airbox and having to bump back up to 20% or more and starting the process over again but you get the idea. The end result is a map that is as good or better than a full dyno from a shop. My goal is to make two maps and not run the AT all the time. I want at the flip of a switch one map for performance and one for cruising down the freeway. I'm using it as a tool to get my bike running the way I want it and so far has been fantastic. The power commander is a pretty solid product and doesn't typically go bad. If I were you once maps become available from DynoJet for the 630 I'd get just the PCV and not an AT. A PCV alone makes a world of difference. The worst that could happen is that you hate it and sell it on the forum and take a couple bucks in the shorts. But I bet you'll love what it does to your bike and you never look back
I like my TE 630 Better than a DRZ400. Especially SM-type guys complain that it is not responsive. What it is, it is geared rediculous high. I bought a front sprocket but never changed it, and now I kind of like the tall gears. Alot of over-sensitive throttle can be uncomfortable. There is alot of power there, it is simply not geared for jumpy responsiveness. Honestly it has more potential than I can make use of. Any fool can open it up on a strait stretch. I decided to not bother with power commander. Also, at about 2K miles, it is broke in, and the stuttery surging has disappeared and I enjoy the bottom of those long tall gears.
Except that mine´s got the p/u kit and Arrow slip-ons, I agree totally. Was a bit of a cow when I got it. But `tis perfect now.
One thing to keep in mind is that damn near all modifications will NOT provide the huge power increase when done by themselves. For you to truly experience an exhaust system, you need to support that freely exiting air with a lot more intake/fuel. You've got the fuel part, all you need is to give it more breathing space. Remember, you will probably need to adjust EFI mapping again once you open the airbox so it can get the right ratio of fuel/air to the engine. An engine is a balance system. 3 things of the top of my head: Air in, Fuel in, and Air out. Keep those balanced as you modify and increase the performance of your bike
I kmow opening up the intake on a caburated engine requires rejeting but on a fuel injected engine wouldn't the mass air flow sensor detect the increased flow and correct the fuel accordingly ?
That is what I was thinking. My 630 runs better now with more air, and I don't notice the heat on my leg from the exhaust anymore. I want to give it even more air. I'll work on that.
I have a similar issue but with the 610's. I have owned an 06 sm610 and now I have an 09 610. The 06 has a Barrett slip on and been rejetted. The 09 has had the same (not jetted obviously!) and the annoying bit is the 06 whoops the 09. With exception of throttle response. The mid range and top end of the 06 is far and away better. Any idea's? I thought they were the same bike but with injection!
Quick question regarding the aribox mod on the 630: Is it ok to do it with out adjusting the ecu to compensate for the additional flow of air?
I removed the labyrinth (well, the dealer removed it before I even got the bike) with no ill effects. I'm pretty certain the bike was built to run without it, and it was thrown in there to pass EPA restrictions to make it legal to sell. The same goes for the power up kit. The bikes were tuned to run without all that garbage at the factory. I can't speak for cutting big holes in the airbox cover that some folks have done, though. In my experience, it's not a good idea. Coming from the sportbike world, the air pressure inside the airbox is important (as they have ram-air type systems). Messing with that is usually not recommended. The most people typically do is throw in a higher flowing air filter. Even that typically requires ECU adjustment.
