All 2st I just ordered a Revloc Dyne Ring from Motosportz

After 3-4 years running a rekluse in my KTM and now an EFM in my wr125, I have had very little wear. Like Kelly says the slipping is done at low rpm and when ever there is a initial load, then it quickly hooks up. It is the slipping at high rpm that creates the heat and wear on a manual clutch. I really think the auto does a better job than most riders are able to do, not to offend anyone, because I know there are some really good riders that are great with a clutch. I think the back tire lasts longer also, because you have less spin everytime there is a load.
The worst part of an auto clutch is when you let a buddy try it out, and they are determined not to like it.
I wish the Dyna Ring had been available before I got the EFM, it is cheaper and seems simpler.
GP

Water Racer,

You hit it on the head. I do think the EFM is a quality piece that will last forever. It is $200 more than the dynaring though and you do have to add a case spacer. If there was ever a bike that would be hard on an auto clutch it is my WR 360. It makes its hay on the bottom end and early mid so you are always riding a couple of gears high. When you hit the tight stuff you end up just leaving it in 3rd or 4th and letting the motor and the auto clutch work. Other than two warped metal plates from when I ran the bike without coolant for numerous miles(ripped a hose and it dumped it all so fast I didn't know until it started to seaze) the clutch has been flawless and required NO upkeep after 3 years. I run 15 x 46 gearing with the auto and the bike is a true open trail and DS weapon, especially after some suspension tips from Kelly.

Walt

I'm beginning to understand why say these things are like cheating ... I really need that up & down hill action where I'm at now ... If these things were $50.00, I'd buy one right now! As it stands, I'm sold but gonna wait on this luxury item ...

Anthony,

I installed my dyna ring yesterday and can't really get it to idle without trying to hop a bit. I've fully adjusted my perch side and lever side all the way you can get it.

I'm wondering if you had to install the extra washer on the lifter plate as per the instructions. I may have to go back in and redo it and add it.

Also was not clear on the instructions but the new steel plates have a flat side and grove side. I understand that the ring in the middle should have both plates flat sides facing it but what about the others? I assumed it did not matter.

instructions say's based on the condition of the friction plates you may need to add this washer but the plates are nearly brand new with about 3 rides on them. I assume they meant more worn out plates.

You could try ajusting the cable ajuster by the head tube, I'll have to meet up with you at McNutt, I'd sure like to try your new bike with the Dyna Ring in it and the PWK carb

Hi

i did not use the extra washer or additional springs on my WR250 2009. i only needed to adjust the clutch cable from the frame mounted adjuster near the engine.

I assembled the clutch pack per the instructions supplied.
i hope that helps

*********************************************

just letting you know yesturday i let my friend have a ride on my bike then he crashed pretty hard. This normally wouldn't be a problem except for the Dynaring clutch system

when he crashed, the cluch perch and handle bent up and broke the adjuster on the cable, meaning the bike was almost un-ridable as the clutch was just slipping in gear, out of adjustment. we couldn't get enough tension on the distorted perch end of the cable so i had to back it off and run the bike in 'bump start mode'.

i had to ride for 2 hours of tight trails and hill climbs without any clutch and having to force it into gears i crashed heaps but got some good vids

i'm going to need a new clutch cable setup. any ideas?

not much to see but the lever is bent, twisted the perch and bent the threaded cable section of the clutch




with the dynaring, the spline on the perch is more vulnerable to damage

Intersting,looks like you need to carry a spare and make a guard extension on the barkbuster.Or go back to pre barkbuster mod of Plumbers tape under the purch so it spins in a crash

great idea's zim
i think the best thing would to get rid of the lever all together but you need tension on the cable for it to work. maybe a short cable fixed near the engine.



this is how my mate broke the bike
note the squeel from the back of the bike at the start was a loose rear rotor bolt from his crash a minute before.

Anthony @wombat forest WOW2.0 ride Husqvarna 250- i lent my bike to a mate - Part 7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f444z34SVes






i crashed pretty hard because i had no clutch for the rest of the day, as i tried to limp it home

Anthony @wombat forest WOW2.0 ride Husqvarna 250- stall and crash- Part 6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzrlK2Vi8go

You got one already you cheater!

had to take it out yesteday cause it was not working properly and I had a foul plug issue to deal with first. I'll put it back after a few rides cause I'm too cheap to waist fresh tranmission oil. I've changed the oil three times this week already.

I'll try with the washer at the lifter plate and see if that resolves it.

If you're going to keep running that system maybe you can find a clutch cable with an integrated cable play adjuster (haven't looked at my WR125, I know my CR500 has one) that way you can take the play out mid-cable instead of threading that adjuster so far out of the perch.

Hi speedkills, the Husky WR have two adjusters on the clutch cable, one at the perch and another near the engine.

To use the Dynaring, both adjusters need to be extended to get the right tension required. its just that as i have found, a crash where the clutch perch is damaged, will mean game over. after the minor accident, the clutch just slipped, i took the perch off and adjusted as much as i could from the engine adjuster and got it going but the damaged cable meant i was unable to disengage the clutch by pulling the lever, this is basically the dynaring 'bump start mode'

i'm thinking i should have brought a rekluse pro now...

i've brought a new cable/ perch and lever @$140Aus and will give it another go. I'll keep you updated

Keep your eyes open, a third adjustment mid-cable could mean you don't need to thread out the adjuster on the perch. If nothing else Motion Pro would make you a cable like that.

What about fully closed handguards...?

i have ego barkbusters at the moment, what are you suggesting?

Personally, I like the cycra, but regardless to brand (protection wise they are all the same), whats important is the mounting method. I have great experience with the cycra tripleclamp mount, so the guard doesn't rotate or twist, even with a relatively massive crash. Problem is the upper tripleclamp on our huskies only has one bolt. I fabricated another one below the tripleclamp, but I heard somewhere that a CRF tripleclamp might fit with the 10 bikes with the 48mm kayabas.

WR250/Revloc

I did most of mine with the internal adjustment then just fine tuned it with the cable adjuster. It works great.

Cycra seems to have the best mounts, I have the bar clamp mounts and they work great and use the threaded insert in the bar, BRP I think.
Have some hard crashes and guards haven't moved

You don't necessarily have to change the trans oil every time you work on the clutch. Just lay the bike on the side opposite the clutch and the trans oil won't leak out when you remove the cover. Just be careful not to drop any pieces into the trans!