I never followed through with this job last summer and rode through the woods hunched over while standing all year. I am 6'2". I have the "Seat Concepts" seat but really need the extra 2" bar rise to allow standing up straight in the technical areas. As it was, I felt like a "hunch back" riding a bike too small for my legs and arms. One event was 500 miles in 3 days. I could barely straighten the old back out at the end of each day. Some less taller guys can stand all day because the seat and bars distance fit them like a glove and made it look like they were actually "sitting" but they were up on the pegs. To sit; they only had to lower a couple inches. The goal for me was to have as little distance from the seat to ass & hands to bars as possible so the repeated transition of sitting/standing doesn't beat my ass before the race does. In stock form for me, this transition was almost 6 inches or more. After a few hours of riding, it was like getting out of a chair every time I had to stand on the pegs. Otherwise, the bike is a KTM/BMW Adventure killer with its powerful motor and light chassis. To raise the bars this season would be a blessing to my aging back. I'm going on a jaunt through the Allegheny Mountains in PA as part of the Beta / Yamaha - Dual Sports series via AMA and the Durty Dabber's MC. I already have the 2" risers (in black) like Donkey but never installed them because of the dreaded short brake line on most TR650 ABS models. I could find no extension for this set-up, no matter how hard I looked. They just don't make a male banjo connector with a cap and the correct threading to fit the master cylinder and the PERMANENT banjo bolt. If that female banjo to M/S was a "straight universal fitting", things might be different. So this is what I did without an extension...... I re-routed the clutch cable by disconnecting it at the clutch cover on the motor. Very easily done by using a long adjustable wrench on the spring actuated cable guide. I just pushed it through the opening on the left side of the rear of the radiator which seems to work like a factory position. Then I disconnected the braided steel to metal tubing junction from the steering neck and pulled the brake line up in FRONT of the steering stem (across the oil filler hole) and up to the M/S. Its original position wraps in front of the steering neck across the serial number sticker. No other lines (electrical or throttle) needed extending. It seems like everybody has a different length of brake line as that would explain why Donkey didn't need to extend anything. My new set-up is tight, but it works. At full left or right lock, there is no more tension then what was already on the line from the way the factory twisted the line before they permanently crimped it to the tubing. I like the bracket made in the above post but I was able to achieve similar results buy just using heavy zip ties to secure everything to the oil line tubing parts of the frame. Bottom line: ITS FINALLY DONE!!! I can stand on the pegs and keep my back straight. Thank you for all the input.
