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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Oil Change Drama
- Thread starter DirtyOldMan
- Start date
Thought I'd reference this page. It would be much easier to check with the oil drained. Mine was loose and leaked oil down the frame and over the rad.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oil-leak.34157/
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oil-leak.34157/
RidingDonkeys
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Some chatter over on ADV has me wanting to revive this thread, particularly this post. BigDog mentioned that he wanted to put replace the in-line drain with a true t-valve. I'd been thinking the same thing. However, something like Kjack posted, or even better, a Fumoto would be even better.
Does anyone know the thread details on the plug? If we could find a Fumoto to screw right in there, then suddenly oil changes become easy. Just hook up a short piece of hose and drain right into the pan with no funnels or mess.
drzcharlie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I've been involved it trying to find a solution for this. I sent Fumoto an email regarding an inline drain. I will post up once they answer.
RidingDonkeys
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I found a 1/8 NPT mini valve on Amazon for $8. I ordered it and it should be here later this week. If all goes well, I'll be installing it next weekend.
http://www.amazon.com/PneumaticPlus...ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A158LRHTFH4QLV
http://www.amazon.com/PneumaticPlus...ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A158LRHTFH4QLV
drzcharlie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I found a 1/8 NPT mini valve on Amazon for $8. I ordered it and it should be here later this week. If all goes well, I'll be installing it next weekend.
http://www.amazon.com/PneumaticPlus...ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A158LRHTFH4QLV
I got an email back from Fumoto this afternoon. They do NOT make an inline valve. That would have been sweet. RD your idea looks like it will work just fine. Waiting to see what you come up with.
AUS_TR650
Husqvarna
AA Class
Pretty good chance the thread in the tee-fitting will be metric. If it has a copper washer to seal the existing plug, it will be a fine pitch, parallel thread.
RidingDonkeys
Husqvarna
Pro Class
We have confirmed that it is indeed 1/8th NPT. I just came home from the hospital to drop off the Ural and found a package on my doorstep with the valve. Depending on how things go this afternoon, and how well the baby sleeps tonight, I might get this installed in the morning.
kjackbrown
Keep on keepin on.
So, you are going to screw that right into the factory "T" right? I might do it this way too.
Just thinking out loud....
In my garage I already have an 1/8" nipple that has a 30" clear tube on it. I could remove the 1/8" plug currently in the factory "T" and use it to cap off the female side of that valve (just to keep stuff out). On oil change day I would just grab my tube adapter...unscrew the 1/8" plug from the valve...screw in the tube...and open the valve and let it all just drain into an oil bottle. When done just unscrew the tube adapter and put the 1/8" plug back in.
Heck, so all I need is a 1/8" valve! I still have a while before my next oil change (and it is flippin cold right now) so that gives me plenty of time to find a nice valve (maybe stainless?).
Just thinking out loud....
In my garage I already have an 1/8" nipple that has a 30" clear tube on it. I could remove the 1/8" plug currently in the factory "T" and use it to cap off the female side of that valve (just to keep stuff out). On oil change day I would just grab my tube adapter...unscrew the 1/8" plug from the valve...screw in the tube...and open the valve and let it all just drain into an oil bottle. When done just unscrew the tube adapter and put the 1/8" plug back in.
Heck, so all I need is a 1/8" valve! I still have a while before my next oil change (and it is flippin cold right now) so that gives me plenty of time to find a nice valve (maybe stainless?).
RidingDonkeys
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Yep, I'm screwing right into it. Hopefully I'll get to it today and show pictures of how it works.
kjackbrown
Keep on keepin on.
Coolio
RidingDonkeys
Husqvarna
Pro Class
OK, at last, my approach to the oil plug.
Grab a set of Vise grips and clamp your oil line. Make sure you go far enough to the left to avoid the T and have room to turn the valve.
Throw a rag down to catch any drip. There should be some when you remove the plug.
Go grab this stuff from your tool box. A tube of Yamalube 4 and a long H5 bit or something in its likeness to reach that plug. If you have trouble pulling the plug, a set of channel locks will work to hold the T fitting in place while you put pressure on the plug. Rest easy, this is the last time you'll have to do this.
These are the parts I used. You'll see the original plug in the middle for reference. The valve is getting installed. The elbow I already had, and will be using that for draining. I can hand tighten it in in, and just hook up a hose.
Give your valve threads a good coat of Yamalube 4. It is a petroleum resistant semi-drying compound that is perfect for oil fittings and drain plugs.
Screw it in and here you have it.
The valve screw landed on bottom. It must be top or bottom to open fully if you are keeping the red t-handle on it.
But what if you hit that thing accidentally and it leaks enough to drain your oil. That would be a bad day. I want a plug there.
I found this in my stash of air fittings. It came in one of those air hose kits from Northern Tool. It is open though, not a plug.
Well, no oil will be hitting this on the regular since the valve will be shut. So a little of this will do.
Squirt it through the outside...
So that it fills up the inside almost to the top of the threads to make your plug.
And give it an hour to dry before putting it on your valve.
But wait, there's more! Why not eliminate the chance of hitting that valve by accident?
Get yourself a 10mm wrench and remove this handle.
And save that handle. It is your church key now. This shaves some weight off the valve too, so there is less weight bouncing around and being supported by the hose.
And you are done! This project took one hour. 32 minutes of that was spent consoling a crying baby.14 minutes was spent explaining to my wife that if she'd just take the baby, it would only take me 5 minutes to finish. 2 minutes of that was spent listening to her rant about changing the oil on a motorcycle less than 24hrs after bringing home a newborn from the hospital. 12 minutes was actual work.
The actual oil change will have to wait until tomorrow. I think I've used up my kitchen pass for the day.
Grab a set of Vise grips and clamp your oil line. Make sure you go far enough to the left to avoid the T and have room to turn the valve.
Throw a rag down to catch any drip. There should be some when you remove the plug.
Go grab this stuff from your tool box. A tube of Yamalube 4 and a long H5 bit or something in its likeness to reach that plug. If you have trouble pulling the plug, a set of channel locks will work to hold the T fitting in place while you put pressure on the plug. Rest easy, this is the last time you'll have to do this.
These are the parts I used. You'll see the original plug in the middle for reference. The valve is getting installed. The elbow I already had, and will be using that for draining. I can hand tighten it in in, and just hook up a hose.
Give your valve threads a good coat of Yamalube 4. It is a petroleum resistant semi-drying compound that is perfect for oil fittings and drain plugs.
Screw it in and here you have it.
The valve screw landed on bottom. It must be top or bottom to open fully if you are keeping the red t-handle on it.
But what if you hit that thing accidentally and it leaks enough to drain your oil. That would be a bad day. I want a plug there.
I found this in my stash of air fittings. It came in one of those air hose kits from Northern Tool. It is open though, not a plug.
Well, no oil will be hitting this on the regular since the valve will be shut. So a little of this will do.
Squirt it through the outside...
So that it fills up the inside almost to the top of the threads to make your plug.
And give it an hour to dry before putting it on your valve.
But wait, there's more! Why not eliminate the chance of hitting that valve by accident?
Get yourself a 10mm wrench and remove this handle.
And save that handle. It is your church key now. This shaves some weight off the valve too, so there is less weight bouncing around and being supported by the hose.
And you are done! This project took one hour. 32 minutes of that was spent consoling a crying baby.14 minutes was spent explaining to my wife that if she'd just take the baby, it would only take me 5 minutes to finish. 2 minutes of that was spent listening to her rant about changing the oil on a motorcycle less than 24hrs after bringing home a newborn from the hospital. 12 minutes was actual work.
The actual oil change will have to wait until tomorrow. I think I've used up my kitchen pass for the day.
kjackbrown
Keep on keepin on.
Are you going to leave it in that position or are you planning on loosening the hose clamps and spinning it so it points downward (handle to the rear)?
Heck...even if yoy lost your church key, you could just use something like a 1/4" open ended wrench to turn the valve.
Heck...even if yoy lost your church key, you could just use something like a 1/4" open ended wrench to turn the valve.
RidingDonkeys
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Now that you mention it, yes, I'm probably going to rotate it so the valve points down. Hopefully I have time tomorrow to get at it.
RidingDonkeys
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Dont forget the time it took, to take pics, while consoling crying baby.
Congrats on the little one! If it's your first kid, your going to love it.
My 19mo.old loves wrenching on my bike
Oh ya, nice write up. Thanks.
Thanks! Yep, this is numero uno for us. I know this is the oil thread, but I have to brag a little. MrsDonkeys was pretty insistent on taking her Ural to the Hospital. My only condition was that I pilot it. I didn't want to be in the sidecar when she had a contraction and jerked the handlebars.
drzcharlie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Congrats Mr. & Mrs. Donkey! I have three, but they are a little older. All boys, 36, 30, and 20. Yeesh time flies, have fun with your kid because they will never forget it.
chris1261
Husqvarna
AA Class
If you're going to rotate it so the valve turns downwards, i'd think the best move would be to take the whole thing out, and reverse which nipple goes in which hose. that would orient the handle part outwards, making it easier to operate. just my $0.02
--Chris
P.S. 'grats on the newborn!
kjackbrown
Keep on keepin on.
Awesome dude******************************************************************************** Congrats to the RD family****************************************!!!