Read this and become informed...it will help protect you from sketchy internet advice: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ Both types of oil lubricate just fine. Synth lubricates a cold engine better...that's the main benefit. It also has the potential to last a little longer, but our bikes spec a short oil change interval anyway. If you use synthetic, it MUST have the JASO-MA certification for wet clutch use. Do NOT use synth oils that have the "Energy Conserving" logo on the API circle. Your clutch will slip. BTW -- I switched to Rotella 5W-40 after I read that primer and talked with my uncle, who is a retired engine design engineer who specialized in lubrication. If some engine rebuild guys measured something different...then they weren't controlling the test parameters properly. While the Rotella is marketed as a heavy-truck diesel oil, it has the JASO-MA certification, which means that Shell took the trouble to get it certified and they know something about this stuff. My uncle did research and wrote papers about engine design and oil for 40 years (mostly at Cummins). He said...don't screw around. Just buy the synthetic.
Like i said i would love to use rotella but the bike calls for a 10w-50 oil and Rotella only comes in 15w-40 or 5w-40. Will it hurt to run a 15w-40 when the bike calls for a 10w-50 regardless of the brand of oil?
But...as I said, read the link and learn what the differences are between those designations. There are other resources out there as well. You can then make sense of the choices and be informed. What is the actual viscosity difference between xW-40 and xW-50, at 212 degrees? What is the viscosity difference between 10w-x dino oil and 5w-x synth oil, at cold start? If you can't answer those questions, you're not in a position to make a choice. I would never make an uninformed choice like that, based on what some random person told me on the internet.
just saw the rotella 5w-40 synth at canadian tire. price is actually pretty good. at least it isn't double the price of rotella dino oil.
supposed to use distilled water from any grocery store. and as far i know all modern antifreeze is compatable with aluminium, but i'm sure the dealership will tell you otherwise.
Right now, 7th Gear. I have a bottle of Engine Ice sitting in my garage when it's time to flush the system. As said above, the automotive stuff is compatible.
For oil: I have run both Rotella T 5w40 syn and Rotella 15w40 dino in motorbikes for the last 10 years, never had a problem. Mostly now use the 5w40 syn cause its not much more expensive then dino and it's not to thick at start-up in cold weather. for coolant: buy a jug of distilled water (has all minerals removed) and a jug of standard automotive antifreeze. Mix 50/50 and pour in radiator. I've been doing this in my bikes for years as well. Or go spend $14 a liter for motorex "motorcycle-specific" coolant.
Did the first oil change tonight at 480 miles, stuff looks pretty dirty, not sure if this is typical or if service could have been done sooner: Filter Magnet Oil Filled it with 10-40 Castrol Is your bike a TE630 my small drain plug is a 12 mil socket and the large one is a 10 mil allen Torque specs don't seem consistent in the literature, in the shop manual the torque specs for the 2 plugs are 18 ftlbs & 44 ftlbs but when you go to the torque spec charts it shows the plugs being tightened to 18 ftlbs & 22 ftlbs. When the oil filter cover was removed the screws were snug at best...no leaks tho.
That´s what my magnetic plug looked like after my last oil change (7000 kms). The filter looked ok but I didn´t do the third filter under the casing. The finger size filter on the side had a few specks of carbon on it. I put quite a bit more than the 2.5 litres of oil in and it still only comes up to the minimum in the show glass.
You shouldn't have done that. Overfill and you will have oil puking out of your airbox, all down the brake pedal and swingarm. Ask me how I know... It takes a while for the oil level to equalize once you stand the bike up straight, but 2qt is the max...
Even at my mileage, I still get some metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug and in the oil filter (but not as bad as I did early on). The screens stay pretty clean.
I just enabled your account, sorry. I've been away from the internet for far too long. Click on name or avatar and click on 'Start Conversation' to send a PM.
Passed the road test today, feels good to be legal btw Great site Coffee, good cup of Joe is second only to riding the Husky.
I did an oil/filter change last week and thought I'd try Rotella T6 5w-40. So far I'm happy with it, bike shifts smoothly and it runs quieter than normal. I've read the "Bobstheoilguy" articles and the more I read the more confused I get... So here's the question I know you all are gonna hate, but is there really much difference in protection between a full synth 5w-40 or the recommended 10w-60? Is there anyone that's been running this oil grade for an extended period on this particular bike?
