+1 I'm intrigued. I tried replacing the broken piece with a short bit of fibreglass tent pole but couldn't get it the right length/shape to stop it from losing it's position.
Hi Glitch I'm just new to being Terrarized but as far as pro help is concerned I hope the Dudes in Queanbeyan stay in business for a while longer. Give Greg a call at Dahlitz Motorcycles a call 02 62978818. The young fella that is the operator even figured they could "unbrick" an ecu if its not totally fried, apparently it takes a special code from BMW to do it. Please see below from another thread. Love your work Cheers Hi Sprinter Haven't looked at your bikes you posted but I recently bought a 2nd hand Terra that had what seemed to be an "Eruption" style temp spoofer installed. It went alright but not any better than any other 650 single which was a little disappointing. Didn't have any stalling issues due to the temp spoofer which richens up the open loop part of the fueling. Yesterday I finally tracked down an old Husky shop in the ACT that had the BMW interface gizmo and a dude that could that could drive it. They dialed up BMW Motorad in Germany and 2 1/2 hrs later I had Terra with a new brain. Today I went for a ride in the Watagans up the back of my place and man what a weapon. Definitely the most powerful big single i have ridden (650gs KLR dr650 but no 690's) and no stalling infact just the opposite you have to be careful with the right hand. If you are resourceful and don't mind marrying an orphan you'll have a ball. Dont worry about the PC until you've sorted out the ECU update. I'm selling my 800gsa now. Cheers Mate
Lookin forward to Monday when I can give Greg a call and discuss my running issues with my stock TR I don't think the government will respond quick enough to the safety of the issue with stalling /having to give it a gut full at the lights while letting the clutch out to prevent stalling with a recall moss update I'm thinking spoofing but this is the most positive post I have read regarding a true recent upgrade straight from the manufacturer I'm in Albury and a ride up there would save me the cost and effort of installing a power commander Thanks terrable for sharing your experience
They're just as unlikely to hook up to "BMW Motorrad Germany" as the Canberra mob. It's sort of hard when the computers in Munich were switched off 2+ years ago and no dealer/ service folks around the globe has had access to any BMW data ever since. Hmmmm... BECAUSE of that fact, Dave at First Class took THREE! months of trail and error (rather than electronic diagnostics) to find what had stranded my Strada. Yup, the good, old-fashioned piecemeal way, no fancy online-sessions possible. Apart from the days I spent on the phone trying to find some way and/ or people to get this turd running again (it has, ever since...but who knows what's next? And when/ where?) But hey, Lilydale is not a bad place, it's a launching pad for some great roads/ tracks in the nearby hills and it's got a couple of decent motels for an extended stay If anyone still decides on the place, I'm always up for a cuppa/ beer/vino...and only 15 mins away.
That's a bummer. I tend not to use dealers but I haven't been struck with a catastrophic failure yet. My brother recently picked up a used Terra and as he also has a BMW and has it serviced by a dealer, he has been given the wink wink from them that they can "look after" the Husky.
Correct, there is no dealer with a MOSS who has any form of online support from BMW for these bikes. BMW dealerships have a new system in place and it does not support the Husqvarnas. There are some options on electronic diagnostics that do work, one of them being the GS-911 tool, but its use is quite limited as the manufacturer HexCode have never been able to crack the BMS-E on the Magnetti Marelli ECU. Their work was done on the earlier GS650s which used a different ECU. Fortunately the GS-911 is able to read error codes and perform basic resets on the TR650, and for some of us that is good enough to justify the price. I am very fortunate to have a 2104 version of the Rheingold BMW Motorrad Workshop Service System running on an old laptop and I can do pretty much anything to both my TR650 and my Nuda except of course go online for updates and ECU flash etc. (Hacked copy - Dont ask :-) but it was offered on here) Recently a friend with a Terra had some issues with the bike not starting intermittently. It was doing strange things and at first we thought the fault was the side-stand switch causing the problem. When we hooked the bike up to the computer the fault log display showed multiple instances of a 'Crankshaft Position Sensor fault' which was obviously causing the starting issue. Having pulled apart the CPS connectors and checked them, the fault disappeared and the bike has been normal ever since. A simple dodgy electrical connection was the real culprit and without the ability to electronically diagnose the fault I am sure we would still be looking for it now. I have to say I was pretty pleased that day.
Sorry guys been busy on other stuff.. here is a pic i took, Its cut on my cnc then i polished it in my lathe so its smooth against the rubber on top, dont want it tearing through lol... been working great for several weeks now.
Now that is neat. Nice to know that a decent repair is possible and looks pretty simple too. Your picture clearly shows the crap design of the 'Button Posts' and you can see that your 'M' button alignment is equally poor. Obviously the 'S' button is used the most and therefore suffers more failures, but by using your method it may not be possible to do the 'M' button unless we could add a small support loop at the base.
Looking good...what's the material? CNC invokes the thought of metal of some sort... ...and just thinking aloud: what's the weight of the part? Is it solid or hollow? Round or profiled at the bottom? Does it sit/ rest right on the actual switch-button? I think the remaining original M-button post could well be "on the money" as it'll have a curved trajectory considering its fixing point.
Yeah the designer of the original needs to be shot, i could design better in my sleep I made it from delrin, its great to machine and withstands high temps it might get subjected to in the sun, flat bottom and rests on the button, the hole in the panel isnt round so needed to be shaped to suit.. weight would be no more than 10grams. The M button dont get the use the S one does, i did look at replacing it but though ive used it once since buying the bike so did see the point in wasting time/effort on it lol
Thanks for the info. Using Delrin/POM in my workshop everyday, so I'm familiar with its properties. True about the M-button...should (maybe) last the life of the bike. Weight could become a concern as even 10g multiplied by the thumping on gravel/ dirt could conceivably become a stress over a period of time to destroy the actual switch-button (as there must be a spring in that to return the button to its "disengaged" position). Some sort of "suspended" arrangement wouldn't apply permanent stress/ strain on the switch-button (similar to the original set-up). Again, just thinking aloud...as I've been mulling over this issue for a couple of years now, trying to see all angles, valid or not.
Just knitting onto some old posts here... Issue: Crappy, leaky airbox + filter-holder required surgery. PodMod done and original air filter holder modded to act as a frame for a pre-filter. Used a pool sock/skimmer sock sprayed with air filter oil as a disposable filter. Results: Perfect !! So good in fact, that if the pre-filter sock is changed frequently, the actual air-filter inside the airbox doesn't even have to be checked...re-oil once a year/ 12.000k? Remaining issue: The air-filter door with attached frame at the back is a VERY tight and an awkward fit, the 3 access bolts and washers in idiotic positions and requiring multiple tools. Also: the plastic threads of the self-tapping screws that hold the door + frame together are already starting to wear, already using over-sized self-tappers. Attempted Fix: For fast at-the-side-of-the-road changes of the skimmer-sock those 3 door-bolts need replacing with something better and easier. The door/filter frame connection has to become more durable in the long term. Preference: Have everything at a state where NO TOOLS AT ALL are required and a prepared/ oiled skimmer sock can be installed within a minute. Original Mod: The modded OEM-filter frame....door and frame screwed together... ...oiled skimmer sock draped and tucked under frame edges to hold it in place. Current state: the left thread shows a bigger self-tapper Fix: Drill through door and filter frame with 5mm drill Using some s/s wing-bolts M5 x 40mm off Ebay which need to be shortened. Some matching s/s wingnuts are on their way. Bolts shortened Next...more wing-bolts for the air-filter door with its recessed bolt-locations. Shortening the bolts to suit and leave the wing-handles just proud of the door-plastics, using some thickwall rubber tubing as a compressible spacer. A little epoxy glues the parts together to prevent losing any small bits out there on the road when swapping the filter sock. Curing... A little wipe down with some acetone and we're ready to go. All the bits in their places....bar the 2 required wingnuts Neat fit !!...the place of the OEM filter...now occupied by the pool-sock pre filter and the crankcase breather pod filter. New year, new price...5 skimmer sox = $7.50....still damn good value considering the alternatives.... All lined up for an oiling....3 of the skimmer socks. Plastic bag as a "glove" ...and under the seat they go for some rapid filter changes along the way.... Now just waiting for those S/S wingnuts to finish things off. Think, we're onto another winner.... Cost: ~ A$12
I repaired my S button for the 3rd time today (glued the original part back in place) each repair is lasting about 12months/7000km. I wonder if a solution like the 10g part which Hulksta made, which had a couple of mm of sponge on the bottom (to spread the load and keep the weight of the part off the switch might do the trick.
It's certainly one way to go about it....never heard any more about it, though. With quite a few reported failures I'd have thought that the Hunsta-solution would've gone into production by now... I still prefer Greg's idea of bypassing the dash-buttons altogether and going to external, waterproof buttons mounted somewhere near the switchblocks. I just cant seem to lay my hands on some old, busted dash to play with and either make a little tool to attach/ epoxy/superglue etc the super-fine wires somehow or make something like a clip/ clasp sitting over the top of the actual switch body to tap the 2 outgoing connections. The latter is my preferred idea as it leaves the OEM buttons as a backup and/ or for occasional use. I just need a busted dash (or at least the left half) for a few weeks to come up with something easy and practical. If you know the guys at Evolution M/C well enough to coax an old ex-warranty leftover out of them, they might have a TR/ Nuda unit laying around....I know First Class in Lilydale have 2 Nuda units on the shelf from years back but won't let me have one of them.
