Round II - '72 450 Restoration

The bike was missing a chain guard, so picked up a new one....
The forks cleaned, repainted, rebuilt...but I think I need "clamps" on the wipers...anyone else agree?
New Progressive shocks...
hi rise bars.... Not sure I like the magura black - perch (levers) also new whirlpull throttle.....not sure about that ... I like the trap door magura throttle look... we'll see how it all comes together.. Bing is rebuilt ..cleaned & is going to sit in the plastic bag till I assemble

the shocks have zip ties to keep all the bushings intact....this may sound like a dumb question.. the shocks have one side of the bushing that protrudes further..does that 'protruding' side go towards or away from the wheel?

I had the engine rebuilt by John at Vintage Husky & its been sitting in the shipping box..wrapped in plastic wrap & decided to put it in the frame. Get it all set and remove the plastic wrapping..only to find the fins on the right side of the head broken, bent and cracked...

I was totally bummed..John packed the engine very well ..but the fins were still damaged during the shipping. I had friend help me get the engine in & set the bolts.. an he too was like "geesh".
Well I called John ..told him what happened and he said he will send me out another head..no problem!!... THAT is GREAT customer service.. plus he said he will get it done this coming week..
It's still a bummer that this happened but at least it can be rectified with the removal of a few nuts & bolts and replacement of the head.
The first photo shows the second fin crack/bent..the second photo shows the broken outside fin. Photos are not the best...sorry

At least, with a Husky, you dont need a head gasket, you might want to lap-in the new head with valve grinding compound.

I always hear that "lap in"...what exactly does that mean?.. I am really ignorant about machine shop stuff.. Ok I read about lapping valves but they are "loose".. the Husky Jug has the studs that come up etc.. Can I "Lap" without pulling the Jug? (Jug set with new base gasket etc..)

The valve compound is abrasive and will have a sanding effect on the two sealing surfaces, I once changed a head on one of my Husky's without doing this and there was allways some seepage between the two. The proceedure is in all the Husky manuals, you will have to pull the cyl. off and clean it when your done. http://www.yourhusky.com/files/MK-ML_workshop_manual.pdf

THANKS dumbdotdog....that is better than my Clymers CD....

getting the wheels set, sprocket etc... these were taken with camera phone. The Nickel platimng doesnt come out well. I will take better ones later

Some clearer photos. Waiting on the replacement head.
Nickel plated the axels, bolts, replaced all springs - stainless steel

Don't be afraid to look on Ebay. Just look under your year and you will be surprised what is there.

And while you are on Ebay, check out the case stickers I'm selling for $5 free shipping. It will dress up that clutch cover and make it look great. Look under Vintage Husqvarna Case Stickers.

"Pucker".... Thanks But I have the sticker...its just not visible in the angles I took

I think its a good idea to tackle the motor first, because regardless whether you are going to ride it or sell it, if it smokes like an environmental hazard, it needs seals, and while you have it apart, you can check the condition of the gears, shifting forks, and lets not forget some cases experience corrosion so bad that I have actually found holes in the case that have to be repaired from the inside.

Thanks "Pucker"...I agree....motor was re-built by John Le Fevre @ vintage husky

Do you have this same manual for an MJ? Or know where I could find one?

Thank you!

Do

sorry but maybe check web for clymers & Husky workshop manuals

I decided to use plastic fenders. The front fender has the bracket molded in it & the fender mounts to 2 metal tubes on the lower triple clamp. My question, what is the best way to mount the fender and 'find' the metal tubes without trial & error - multiple holes in the fender trying to line everythig up

lots of measurements & got the fenders fitted...sorry about the photo quality

With the expansion chamber in place.I also have a silencer/spark arreestor I want to use so I went to a muffler shop and had them make the "shiny" adapter in between the expansion chamber & silencer. My next step is to use a band saw & cut slots into the "adapter" & use stainless steel "aircraft" or "T Bolt" clamps to secure it all together