Suputin I hook mine up at every oil change and check everything out every 500 miles, it only changed on me one time where i had to reset it, so you should be good to go But the air fuel ratio changes with the weather, not much but enough to effect gas millage and performance ever so slightly. I am a tuner by trade and i like to stay on top of my tune up on our shop bike that is why I run the A/F gage all the time our weather never stays the same for any long period of time, that is why it is nice to have the A/F gage and the JD unite one touch of a button and your back optimized again plus you can set up for total millage or total performance Hope this helps out any other questions you might have I would be glad to answer or give it my best shot any way. Check this out I did not write this but I have used these princaples for years Tuning With A Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Meter TUNING MANUAL FOR RSR DIGITAL AIR/FUEL RATIO METER Computer or no computer, developing a fuel curve for a motor is a difficult process. There are many points to calibrate in a "digitized" system, which when totaled, comprise the base fuel map. This mapping process must be approached systematically with an understanding of the engine's fuel needs. This manual was written primarily to aid in the calibration of our RSR Fuel Injection Systems but the use of the RSR Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Meter has equal validity in carburetor jetting. Whether you are tapping computer keys or changing needles and jets you are after the same thing...the correct air/fuel ratio. AIR/FUEL RATIOS The mixture of the air and fuel can be expressed in three ways all based on a common point called Stoichiometry. Stoichiometry is the chemically “correct” point at which the most complete combustion takes place which is 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel by weight. Expressed In three ratios we offer the following correlations: AIR/FUEL RATIO FUEL/AIR RATIO FUEL RATIO ACTUAL/STOICHIOMETRY 9.80:1 .1020 1.5 10.50:1 .0952 1.4 11.30:1 .0885 1.3 12.25:1 .0816 1.2 13.36:1 .0748 1.1 14.70:1 .0680 1.0 16.33:1 .0612 .9 18.37:1 .0544 .8 21.00:1 .0476 .7 24.50:1 .0408 .6 MIXTURE REQUIREMENTS The proper air/fuel ratio for each particular set of operating conditions is most conveniently broken down into the two categories steady state running and transient operation. Steady state running is taken to mean continuous operation at a given speed and power output with normal engine temperatures. Transient operation includes starting, warming up, and the process of changing from one speed or load to another. STEADY STATE FUEL REQUIREMENTS IDLE: Due to the low port velocity and frictional losses Idle mixtures are typically set at a fuel ratio of 1.2 or, expressed differently, 12.25:1 air/fuel ratio. Your motor will idle at stoichiometry (14.7:1) or less than stoichiometry but this is very near misfiring and If operating temperatures are not stabilized at a high level the motor will die. For example, operational fluid temperatures can vary from 150 degrees Fahrenheit to 250 degrees Fahrenheit and Inlet air temperatures can easily vary 100 degrees Fahrenheit. These variations in temperature all necessitate different mixture requirements so it is far better to keep the fuel ratio in the 1.2 region to preserve idle quality and off-idle responsiveness. STEADY STATE THROTTLE: At a given RPM under steady state load conditions your mixture strength should be a 1.1 fuel ratio or 13.2:1 air/fuel ratio. At this point you will have your peak cylinder or Brake Mean Effective Pressure (BMEP) figures. The development of a base fuel map is generally done around this figure as It is 11% richer than stoichiometry but within the correction range of a closed-loop oxygen sensing system. This allows the base map to be calibrated for maximum power without excessive fuel consumption and still allows the closed-loop operation to self-adjust to 14.7:1 for normal steady state operation. TRANSIENT FUEL REQUIREMENTS The principal transient conditions are starting, warming up, acceleration (increase of load), and decelleration (decrease of load). STARTING AND WARMING-UP: Abnormally or very rich mixtures are required to start a very cold engine. The air/fuel ratios must be progressively reduced from this point during the warm-up period until the engine will run satisfactorily with the normal steady-running air/fuel ratios. Starting or cranking fuel is also a temperature dependent variable with more cranking fuel required for lower temperatures. Air/Fuel ratios on initial start-up In cold weather can easily be 50% greater than stoichiometry i.e. In the 11.0:1 to 10.3:1 air/fuel ratio range. ACCELERATION: When the throttle is opened for acceleration, thus increasing the manifold pressure, additional fuel must be supplied to prevent misfiring, backfiring, or even complete stopping of the engine. Injection of this acceleration fueling must take place simultaneously with the opening of the throttle. The optimum amount of acceleration fueling is that which will result In the best power air/fuel ratio in the cylinders. In general this varies with the engine speed and with the throttle position at the start of acceleration, as well as fuel volatility, mixture temperature, and rate of throttle opening. Since partial or slow opening of the throttle requires less than the full acceleration fueling, the amount of extra fuel is usually made roughly proportional to the throttle opening and the angle through which the throttle moves. Mixture strength under these conditions may be as rich as 12.7:1 on warm engines and perhaps as rich as 12.1:1 on cold engines. When an engine reaches normal operating temperature we should not see acceleration fueling richer than 12.7:1. DECELLERATION: Under closed throttle decelleration fuel must be controlled to prevent rich conditions or lean Induced backfires. This controlled fuel shut-off can be monitored with the digital air/fuel ratio meter. Decellertion fueling should be no leaner than 17.1:1. RSR DIGITAL AIR/FUEL RATIO METER The RSR Air/Fuel Ratio Meter displays digitally via 10 L.E.D.s your exact air/fuel ratio. The ten lights are divided into four color divisions: three green, four yellow, two orange and two red L.E.D.s. The air/fuel ratio Is as follows (G=green, Y=yellow, 0=orange, R=red). Ambient Light Sensor 0 G G G Y Y Y O O R R 17.1 16.5 16.0 15.4 14.9 14.4 13.8 13.8 12.7 12.1 To the upper right of the display Is a small window which houses an ambient light sensor. This automatically dims the display at night. Using this display you will be able to adjust your base fuel map under conditions of: 1.Steady State Running 2. Starting and Warm-up Cycles 3. Acceleration Fueling 4. Decelleration Fueling 5. Full Throttle Operation USING THE RSR DIGITAL AIR/FUEL RATIO METER You should be aware of the following limitations: 1. Your 0-Sensor must reach 600 degrees Fahrenheit for the display to become active so it will not "read" any exhaust gases until it reaches this temperature. This takes one to two minutes. 2. Your 0-Sensor will become contaminated if you run leaded racing gas and the display will not give true readings. Using unleaded pump gas the 0-Sensor Is easily reliable for 50,000 miles. 3. Nitrous oxide will confuse the sensor because the Lambda 0-Sensor reads free oxygen content and the nitrous will add oxygen molecules to the system giving false readings on your meter. There is no magical, absolute, digitized answer to developing your applications fuel requirements. You must drive your machine and a considerable amount of judgement must be placed in such areas as cold start, warm-up, acceleration fueling, idle quality, and driveability. Each motor is different and the calibration will be only as good as the effort you put into it. Much subjective decision making will take place and the air/fuel ratio meter will not provide you all the answers. Stop watches, elapsed times, lap times and your own opinions as a tester are as equally valid. "READING" YOUR RSR AIR/FUEL RATIO METER Basically your 10 L.E.D. readout can be used on a dyno or when you actually drive your machine. The lights can go "out.' if the mixture is way too lean but the last red light will stay lighted no matter how rich the mixture is beyond 12:1:1. If the lights go green under anything except hard decelleratlon or during active 0 Sensing you are too lean. If the last red light goes on you are too rich to the point where the vehicle will "stumble". You should concentrate your development so that the operating range centers around the two orange lights. This is approximately 13.8 to 13:2:1 air/fuel ratio or about 11% richer than stoichiometry. Acceleration fueling will need to be richer than thls...to the first red light while under load. Full load steady state maximum power will be made in the second orange light or about 13.2:1 air/fuel ratio. Light load steady state operations can occur in the yellow lights but not below Stoichiometry. On carbureted vehicles or EFI systems that do not feature closed loop operations maximum economy will occur at Stoichiometry or 14.7:1. This Is the middle of the display. Idle can vary from the last yellow (14.4:1) to the first red light (12.7:1) depending on how cold the engine is on starting. Once again, judgement Is a major factor in idle quality and there are numerous variables such as warm-up curves, after start enrichment, and temperature corrections to deal with. Idle quality is as much a subjective decision as anything. Important: You should be aware that on fuel injected vehicles your electrical system's health affects your injector fueling. A poor charging system that cannot adequately support the Injection system's demands will cause the Injectors to "lean-out". As battery voltage drops below the systems built-in voltage correction factors the injectors won't stay open to their preprogrammed values and the system will slowly lean-out as voltage drops. TESTING PROCEDURES STEADY/FULL LOAD: To do different steady state load readings at the same RPM use different gears and vary your test route by using level ground and by going up and down constant grades. Full load readings can be done In the placing the vehicle in a higher gear. test RPM and then go to full throttle lower RPM ranges by Stabilize at the (load). To avoid warp velocities you can get high RPM full-load readings by using your lower gears. Just stabilize at the test RPM and then Instantly go to full throttle (load). During your full load or during any transitional load shifts you should look at your acceleration fueling. If the meter goes momentarily lean increase your accelerator fueling. If you see a rich stumble decrease your accelerator fueling. On the RSR Fuel Injection systems you can adjust both your timed (synchronous) and your untimed (asynchronous) acceleration fueling to meet these requirements. DECELLERATION FUELING: Adjusting the closed throttle fueling at various decelleration RPMs is important for three reasons. 1. Prevent an over-rich condition. 2. Prevent lean back-fires. 3. Meter the correct amount of fuel so there are no hesitations when you re-open the throttle. Using your air/fuel ratio meter you want to keep the lights out of the red or orange lights under any decelleration. You also want to avoid having the light go "off" or out of the green (lean) range where backfiring can occur. The decelleration fueling requirements in each RPM range will have to be evaluated to provide instantaneous throttle response when suddenly getting back on the gas". Increase the fueling in these ranges if the vehicle hesitates. SUMMATION The development of the fuel curve or map for your engine is not as simple as some firms will have you believe. Using the RSR Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Meter you can shorten your development time considerably. The meter will instantly show you if you are outside the envelope by being too rich or too lean. To summarize you should try, once normal operating temperatures are reached to keep the steady state running in the two orange lights and full power to include acceleration fueling not past the first red light. One final point concerns the mounting or wiring of the digital air/fuel ratio meter... It is imperative that the black wire of the meter be grounded at the negative terminal of the vehicle's battery. The other two wires, the red and the green are attached to switched + and the 0-Sensor output respectively. If you ground the black wire of the sensor to any other location you are in danger of picking up minute electrical signals from other electrical grounds. These other signals will cause false 0-Sensor readings and can cause the display as well as the fuel Injection to malfunction. Once again...ground the black wire of the air/fuel ratio meter to the negative terminal of the battery. There is a direct relationship between Carbon Monoxide (CO) exhaust gas percentages and your engine's air/fuel ratio. Your RSR Air/Fuel Ratio Meter is not designed to set CO levels and should not be used for these purposes. The following chart gives the relationship of the percentage of CO to your air/fuel ratio. % CO A/F RATIO %CO A/F RATIO % CO A/F RATIO % CO A/F RATIO 0.1 = 14.71 0.2 = 14.53 0.3 = 14.41 0.4 = 14.33 0.5 = 14.27 0.6 = 14.22 0.7 = 14.20 0.8 = 14.16 0.9 = 14.14 1.0 = 14.10 1.1 = 14.08 1.2 = 14.03 1.3 = 14.00 1.4 = 13.97 1.5 = 13.93 1.6 = 13.89 1.7 = 13.85 1.8 = 13.81 1.9 = 13.79 2.0 = 13.76 2.1 = 13.72 2.2 = 13.68 2.3 = 13.62 2.4 = 13.58 2.5 = 13.55 2.6 = 13.53 2.7 = 13.48 2.8 = 13.44 2.9 = 13.40 3.0 = 13.37 3.1 = 13.33 3.2 = 13.30 3.3 = 13.26 3.4 = 13.23 3.5 = 13.19 3.6 = 13.14 3.7 = 13.11 3.8 = 13.07 3.9 = 13.02 4.0 = 12.99 4.1 = 12.95 4.2 = 12.92 4.3 = 12.89 4.4 = 12.85 4.5 = 12.82 4.6 = 12.79 4.7 = 12.74 4.8 = 12.69 4.9 = 12.66 5.0 = 12.63 5.1 = 12.58 5.2 = 12.53 5.3 = 12.50 5.4 = 12.45 5.5 = 12.42 5.6 = 12.39 5.7 = 12.36 5.8 = 12.32 5.9 = 12.29 6.0 = 12.24 6.1 = 12.21 6.2 = 12.17 6.3 = 12.12 6.4 = 12.09 6.5 = 12.06 6.6 = 12.02 6.7 = 11.99 6.8 = 11.95 6.9 = 11.92 7.0 = 11.88 7.1 = 11.85 7.2 = 11.81 7.3 = 11.78 7.4 = 11.75 7.5 = 11.71 7.6 = 11.68 7.7 = 11.64 7.8 = 11.60 7.9 = 11.57 8.0 = 11.53 8.1 = 11.49 8.2 = 11.45 8.3 = 11.42 8.4 = 11.39 8.5 = 11.36 8.6 = 11.31 8.7 = 11.27 8.8 = 11.24 8.9 = 11.20 9.0 = 11.15 9.1 = 11.11 9.1 = 11.07 9.3 = 11.04 9.4 = 11.00 9.5 = 10.96 9.6 = 10.93 9.7 = 10.89 9.8 = 10.85 9.9 = 10.81 10.0 = 10.78 ALTERNATIVE FUELS Your RSR Air/Fuel Ratio Meter can be used with Alcohol or Methanol or Propane. A visual short-hand version of your 10 L.E.D.s corresponding Air/Fuel Ratio for these two fuels Is as follows: DISPLAY LIGHTS GREEN G G YELLOW Y Y ORANGE O RED R ALCOHAL 7.6 7.3 7.1 6.8 6.6 6.3 6.1 5.8 5.6 5.3 PROPANE 17.9 17.3 16.8 16.3 15.7 15.2 14.6 14.0 13.5 13.0 Tuning with these fuels is exactly the same as with unleaded gasoline. The tuning instructions on pages 1-7 apply equally to Alcohol/Propane.
The 511 already has an O2 sensor. Can I just unplug that and use the A/F mixture system in the OEM fitting or does the ECU need that O2 sensor and I will have to install a second O2 sensor for the A/F gauge? I looked into the A/F gauge a bit more and it def seems like the way to go.
Are you running the o2 sensor in your bike now,if so you will have to remove it and put the power up plug in the harness where the stock o2 sensor pluged in, then you just put the o2 sensor for the air fuel gauge where your stock one went in the mid pipe
I have the power up plug installed. I didn't realize the OEM O2 sensor plugged into that same plug. I have my O2 sensor installed but from what you are saying it is not actually plugged in to anything. I will have to have a closer look.
Here's what a plugged pipe looks like. Pic a few posts down http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/br...roblems-and-cutting-out-problems.21583/page-2
This is correct if you have the power up plun in the o2 plug should be just hanging there when you get your A/f set up just take the OEM narrow band o2 sensor out and replace it with the wide band o2 sensor that comes with the kit hook up your JD unit and start tuning.
This is what mine looks like right now. That was something else I was going to ask. The Innovate propoganda mentions something about auxiliary plug ins for piggy back fuel tuners. So the JD box actually gets plugged into the O2 sensor? I figured the two would work as separate entities but I was a bit worried the ECU might need the O2 sensor input in order to work properly.
They do work separate the o2 sensor has it's own control unit In the picture it looks like the O2 sensor is pluged in,is that the case
Well it is plugged into something. I haven't look at it closely yet. I could have sworn the power up plug was not plugged into anything before we plugged in the jumper. However it was done by the dealer so I am not certain.
Interesting usually when we do a power up on the old motors we remove the O2 sensor and put the O2 sensor plug in the manifold like in Glangston's picture (thank you for that sir) so I don't know why they did not do that I have not had the chance to work on any of the BMW motors yet so maybe there is some different method with the keihin EFI set up, I would talk to your dealer and ask them to explain what's up
FYI the weather is getting hot and i noticed that when it hit the 90's last week my A/F gauge said I was starting to run a little on the lean side, I could notice a lean surge in 4 and 5 gear around cruse speeds so I bumped up the JD unit half a step in G,Y,R and everything came back into play, This tells me for sure something I have been looking at for a couple of years,neather The stock or the JD unit is a set and forget, it requires adjustment's with the change in temperature to keep the tune up optimized, The whole Husqvarna EFI system behaves just like a carb in respect to changes in the atmosphere, with out a wide band 02 sensor hooked up to the ECU it can not make the necessary changes to maintain a desired AFR where you want it,nether will the power commander, with that unit you have to leave auto tune in all the time and constantly be hooking it up to the computer and accepting the new changes, so the power commander with auto tune is over $500.00 and a JD unit with a A/F gage is around $375.00. With the ability to monitor and make adjustments on the fly I believe the JD A/F set up is the way to go (Just a thought for all you tuner super freaks).
I agree 100%, it's an electronic carb. and I'll extrapolate from your posting and say that the Mikuni TE EFI DOES NOT change a thing when I move from riding at 800 feet elevation to 8000 feet elevation.
I am going to ride in the mountains will I need to lean out the tune? Normally no. All of the factory-specified and required settings for temperature, altitude, and barometric pressure adjustments are still made by the ECU. I just picked this out at random when I googled "does Mikuni efi require adjustment at altitude. My understanding was that it didn't but that you could run oxygenated fuel and pick up some power that you normally lose at altitude. George (Uptite) said that you're fine running regular at altitude as it's the oxygen that's missing, not the octane. My bike, an 08 EFI 310 idles lower, but is still tractable....about 1500. I believe other sensors modify the AF mix but for race bikes they may be tweaked a bit, especially if they're running oxygenated fuel.
Point out the sensor on a Mikuni TE Husky that measures the air temperature and also the sensor for altitude and the one for barometric pressure. I do not believe that there are any such sensors. If there were, they'd be going out like the water temp sensor and guys would be needing to replace these sensors.
Modularized Air Quantity Sensor at 40 and I believe it may contain the air temp sensor and pressure sensor as the schematic points to the M.A.Q.S when you see the separate listings. M.A.Q.S There is also an Air Temp Sensor and a Pressure Sensor listed in the schematics at 32 and 34 that have a (40) in parenthesis which is the MAQS I actually thought the masq was a mass air sensor but it's apparently something different. ETA lookng closer it also is the TPS and so is taking throttle position into it's measurements and adjusting as per it's instructions.
the MAQS (Modularized Air Quantity Sensor) consists of air temperature, mapping and TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) sensors. The above seems to be a marketing/brochure statement about the bike, its all over the web, but no explanation of what it is or how it works. Also, where IS the MAQS? Air Quantity would indicate how much air, like a car's mass airflow sensor wires in the air intake system. I find no such sensor on the Husky. I do not find any part number reference in the parts catalog for a MAQS. And the marketing statement above, does it mean that the MAQS is air temperature alone, or it does some mapping, and it includes the TPS sensor or not?Lambda sensor Here are all the matches I get for the word "sensor" in the 2010 parts catalog: Temperature sensor (rad fluid sensor) Throttle sensor (carburetor) Magnetic sensor (front wheel) Fall sensor (SMR models for tipping over) Tilt sensor (???)
Isn't the MAQS the big white plug (that I can't get off to save my life) into black plate on the left side of the throttle body?
I don't know why things became so contradictory and speculative...sudenly There are old ancient CafeHusky threads that went into it... basically for me I accepted the info and moved on... The MAQS is listed on your Schematic, and it is located on your Throttle Body- that big plug with all the wires connected to your throttle body is the MAQS connector and includes the wires for the tps.
