I haven't followed exactly what you guys did, but maybe one of you could put up a step by step on the DIY cable...? .
I havent been able to get ibeat working either. The friend that gave me the ELM 327 interface cable had a go and failed and hes very computer savvy. Using virtual PC complicates things The baud rate setting on the back of the interface is 38400 so i set it to that I have the ground to pin 5 not 4, will change it over to see if it makes a difference. I keep getting communication stops.
I paid my money to Semco and have never regretted it.I have it running on three separate computers. The service he provided was excellent. Just saying.
I just completed the iBeat process and all worked fine. I did have to find an old laptop that ran 32bit Windows (though I understand there is a workaround for the 64bit version). Bought the cable, downloaded the software and got the drivers set-up. If you follow the steps outlined by eddychecker above it works fine. I have the JD Powersurge but wanted to check on the base CO readings to see if they were all at 100. I'm still playing with the JD settings to get rid of the "stumble" on acceleration. I also checked the TPS setting which was off a little. It's a fair bit of $$$ and set-up for iBeat, but if it's your thing, it's nice to know you have all the analysis tools.
Hi guys, new on this forum but have been watching carefully last few days all posts related to the husqy`s. I have the 08 510 smr, had the usual popping/stalling/dying issues, nearly fixed that by doing the pwr up along with a full Arrow Ti system. Now I have ordered the cable from Semco, I`ve got V2 software from your link and looking forward to adjust the TPS and CO ( as I believe that's needed to make it run perfect) So, what I`m curious about if any of you know what are the CO setting for a pwr up 08 510? And still not sure how its better to adjust the tps.. in the ibeat manual it says just to get a read of the mV with engine off and set it and that's it. Thanks for your future replies.
I am assuming that the OBD2 pin out diagram shown is for the female port in the vehicle and would be reversed for the male usb adaptor? If looking directly at the pins on the usb cable pin 1 would be top right and pin 16 would be bottom left. Am I correct?
Hi Guys ... I'm happy coming back to this thread after 2 years and finding that somebody has the software and also the used OBD II protocol by Mikuni has been determined. But I'm a bit uncomfortable because I cannot make it work for me. The problem: each time iBeat starts I get a "Communication stops" message and sometimes it crashes (especially when I change the default COM port settings), other times it does not. Clicking the ONLINE/OFFLINE button at the top right corner leads me to the same message. First of all I have a TE 250 from 2008, but it is also equipped with a Mikuni EFI. Here is my setup: I have the software on a 32 bit windows machine. I have a bluetooth ELM 327 OBD II device which connects to the windows machine and opens ports COM3 and COM4. (the ELM 327 device looks like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBD2-OBD-...332?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a8ff2449c) The correct port is set in iBeat (COM3 outgoing, named SSP dev). I also tried COM4 (which is incomming) but I get the same behavior COM settings (for both ports) are: 9600 bits/s, data bits 8, parity none, stop bits 1, flow control none. I have tried using the ground pins on the OBD together (4&5), then separate a couple of times 4 and a couple of times 5 ... nothing. The data pin on the OBD device I use is 7 and on the bike connector is 1. The -/+ pins on the bike connector are 5&6 and on the OBD device are (4/5 for - and 16 for +). The scenario I use: connect the cabling and the OBD device, turn the key (the device led goes on), sometimes I turn on the red start button at the right hand, sometimes I do not (it makes no difference), the engine is NOT started, then I make sure the device is connected in windows over bluetooth, then I start the iBeat software ... and get the error message "Communication stops" One other addition is that if I set the wrong port in iBeat I get the error "Cannot open communication port" ... but if I set it right then I do not get this ... but instead I get "Communication stops" which leads me to believe some data is exchanged with the OBD device / ECU. A second addition is that initially I suspected the used protocol is SAE J1850 and I tried to connect the data cable to pin 2 of the OBD device ... same result. Then tried pin 7 (ISO9141) and then pin 6 (CAN) ... nothing, the same result. A third addition: cabling is done with standard electrical cable (aprox 1 square mm in section) and of about 10 inch / 25 cm long. There is no soldering, the cables are just forced into the pin holes and on the OBD device are they are tied with a plastic tube. As far as I know this should not be a problem for a serial connection ... Any hints? Am I doing something wrong? Any help or ideas are welcomed, Thanks
I can't speak for others but the ODB2 cable I ordered was the same one in the amazon link above (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271803567443?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT for Au customers) If the links become unavailable then what you are looking for is a 'Vagcom' OBD2 to USB cable. On one side it is marked with "VAG KKL" and has a red LED. The other side says "KKL VAG-COM for 409.1" I believe other cables will work if they support the ISO9141 protocol The iBeat software only seems to work on 32 bit systems. If you have a 64bit system you can use a virtual machine to install a 32 bit copy of windows without having to reformat the computer. Instructions are in my post above - Connect the OBD2 cable to the computer (and mount it to the virtual machine if thats what you are using) - Drivers should be installed automatically, otherwise use the disc that comes with the OBD2 cable (NOT the iBeat drivers) - Once instlaled, check what COM port has been assigned to the adapter by opening device manager. In XP click start-run and then type 'devmgmt.msc' and hit ok In Vista/7 click start, right click 'computer' select 'properties' then click 'device manager' at the top left Then expand 'Ports (COM & LPT) Note mine is COM4, double note that if you plug it into a different USB port it'll be assigned a different COM port. So if you do disconnect the cable just recheck the COM assignment I also checked the port settings as shown above, these are the defaults and shouldn't need to be set. However if they differ, set them to that - Start the iBeat software (install it if you havn't got to that stage) and then double check that its assigned to the correct COM port in the options menu Note that sometimes I got a communication port error, even though the cable was plugged in and the COM port was correct. If this happens try replugging the cable and restarting iBeat - Once the COM port is set click 'OK' - Now over to the bike side... first thing to note is this black thingy should be removed I went full retard on this one and got it completely wrong, I removed the 6 little black plugs that fit into the cap and then inserted wires, thats NOT the way to do it. The cap itself can be completely removed as one piece, and will expose a yellow connector like so - Connect the bike & OBD2 cable as follows Note that as helpful as 'eddychecker' has been with his posts and we should be grateful he worked out the OBD2 cable in the first place. His OBD2 pinout diagram is reversed since we are NOT looking at a vehicles female plug. So here is what it should be. This was the cause of 2 days swearing at it without much result - Once thats all hooked up then turn the key on the bike to the on position, make sure the kill-switch is at the 'RUN' position (you'll hear the fuel pump prime). Starting the engine is completely optional, i'd advise leaving it OFF for now - Either restart iBeat, or click on the orange 'OFFLINE' button at the top right to retry the connection. You should now be online and working Few things to note - The red LED on the vagcom cable is ALWAYS on when connected to the USB port, it does not signal anything is right/wrong/connected/disconnected in this instance, so completely ignore it - Note that i'm using pin '4' not pin '5' for my ground. Try either one if its not working for you - If things aren't working then yes you can check pins 5 & 6 for voltage, 5 is positive and 6 is negative. You should get 12 volts when the key is set to the ON position. If no voltage is present then there's a problem elsewhere - It doesn't seem to matter what order you do things in. Feel free to start iBeat first and hook it all up last if you want, just make sure you click the orange 'OFFLINE' button at the top right to retry the connection once its all connected and key is turned on I hope this helps anyone having issues
Also I should note that 'Communication stops' does not necessarily mean any data has gotten to the program. It happens even if nothing is connected. It's worded incorrectly and should be treated as "no data received"
Slight correction to the above. Pin 5 on the bike is 'negative' and pin 6 is 'positive' if you are checking voltage. We can't edit posts on this forum???
Check here for my iBeat setup. Great little windows tablet that you can fit in your pack. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/great-tablet-for-ibeat.80770/
Some ibeat settings . Mates 12 630 with power up - ehs filter - snorkel in place - barrett pipes with quiet insert - jd tuner . He was having a stumble between 3-3.5 revs and fidling with the jd didnt seem to help . Based on dyno bobs recommendation 100-105-118.. Jd set to all green (so no change in fuel settings from tuner) bike runs well through out with no stumble. My 12 630 - power up - barretts with quiet insert - snorkel removed . Was running like crap and will s helped and we set it at 106/110/118. It pulled strong and ran well but i started to notice it was a little slow to turn over and was maybe a touch thirstier then some others . Today i tried 102/106/118 - it started better but was a bit slow to pick up in mid range .. It was a bit dull @3-4k but went hard right @4k . I tried 102/108/118 and now it is pulling better from about 3400. No noticeable stumbles or stutters . So i will leave it at this - i like to plod along around 3-3.5k and power is right where i need it now at about 3.5k revs.. Hopefully it will be a little less thirsty . Interesting how different bikes with similiar set up run a bit differently - i wonder if my mate removed his jd would it make any difference ? And or is the ehs giving a little too much air ?
A big thanks to figuring out the obd2 cable adaptor as it allowed me to pull the codes on the bike I just got 2009 sm610. Now if I could get some help from you guys in fixing the codes and tuning the bike. Also where did you guys get the blade electrical connectors for the plug where the ibeat would plug in? The codes I pulled were 02 sensor high value and 02 heater open circuit. The bike has an uptite exhaust with the power up kit and 02 sensor plug. Also when I trying to get into the co adjustments it said the option was not available for my year bike 2009 sm610. I was able to look at the co levels they were all at 100 however the adjustment arrows were grayed out. When I was looking at some of the wiring and fuses this harness and fuse looked funny to me almost like they had resistors in them, see pics below.
1. The codes you have sound like maybe your PU plug is bad? 2. I tried to adjust the CO settings on a fellow members '09 610 and ran into the "grey" cells also. After the fact, I thought maybe it had to do with the sequence of turning bike on/launching software/kill switch/etc but never got to plug into his bike again. Maybe someone with a 610 will comment if they've been able to adjust their CO settings. 3. I think there are fuses that light up when blown, could it be one of those? .
I purchased iBeat (the cable) from Semco last week, shipped the same day and it should be here any day now. Reason I bought it is because I have this intermittent neutral light blinking problem...and I also want to be able to work on my bike myself... I had brought my bike to the dealership (I brought my bike to change the fuel setting after I change the exhaust with Barett Exhaust), they cleaned the TPS connnector, check the setting with their diagnose tool, but I still have this blinking neutral light. Then I read in the old thread that it's suggested to get iBeat to diagnose and fix it. So I decided to buy it. Now, my question is what is it that I do with iBeat to fix the neutral blinking light problem? Thanks, bob
Page 1 of thread shows how to pull error codes. It could be the dealer didn't clear the codes they found. If you plan to keep the 630 you'll be glad you have iBeat. .
Thanks Dynobob. I plan to keep my 630, I really like the bike...and now that it has Barett exhausts, I like it even more
I have a sm610. I always have to pull the hot start lever inorder to start the bike. Recently, I got the ibeat from a friend and connect it up with my bike. Initially, I get a value of 962mv for the TPS. I adjusted the throttle stop screw to bump it up to 991mv. Thereafter, i adjusted the idle screw to have a idling rpm of 1800. After some test run, i notice there is some poping on deceleration but i notice the acceleration is cleaner now. Guys, did i set the TPS correctly? Anything wrong with poping?
