Thermostat Delete

[engineerk9]

Like I said in the other thread, go ahead and pull your thermostat out and inspect to see how it really works. I have had many of them apart and they do not function as intended.

True the TR thermostat does not operate in the same was as 90% of other installations, that's why I think it's a good design, even if the Thermostat it's self might not be reliable

 

[Tinken]

You guys need to take one apart and look again. When the thermostat is closed, the only coolant that can flow by is passing by the poor seal around the thermostat frame body. Coolant never flows through the thermostat when open, it flows around it's top plunger. There's no bypass, it's either leaking coolant past the thermostat body or when the top seal is opened.

 

[Mark_H]

Mark - I agree if the Thermostat fails in the open position (cold) then the motor could overheat, the dash bars will show it, also I understand the ecu has an alarm setting which would show on the dash

If the thermostat fails in the closed position (hot) the motor will run cooler, the condition might not even be noticed

Exactly like he said !

 

[Highfive]

So.....just to be certain.....Tinken, do you have any of these whizmos left to sell? Or, is it a dead-end now?

Put me on the list if you have one. It's an interesting piece.

HF

 

[Tinken]

I no longer work for ZipTyRacing, but as far as I know, ZipTy still has a few of them.

 

[engineerk9]

So.....just to be certain.....Tinken, do you have any of these whizmos left to sell? Or, is it a dead-end now?

Put me on the list if you have one. It's an interesting piece.

HF

I have the dimensions for the simplified version, any machine shop with a metal working lathe could machine one up out of 50mm aluminium bar stock in only a few minutes

 

[Highfive]

Sweet.....appreciate it, engineerk9. I've got people that could do that. Can you email it to me?

HF

 

[Tinken]

You can also make it out of Delrin. Delrin machines very fast and will never corrode.

 

[Mark_H]

Ok so I finally got my Thermostat out of the casing, I had tried before and found it near on impossible, but this time I persevered.

Following on from the 'Real Radiator Fix' thread where it would appear there is a possibility of Thermostat failure causing overheating and potential for damage to the radiator, I was keen to do away with the nasty little fitting all together. Here in Philippines I really see no need for a Thermostat and anyway I always allow my bike to warm up to normal temperature before I ride it.

Removal of the actual was very much more difficult that had previously been described, the unit did not just tap out of the casing. I had to remove the radiator completely and go to work with a fair sized hammer.

The results were not really as planned, but as this was a 'do or die' job I only needed the bottom part of the cage assembly.

So....with the bottom part of the cage assembly intact (that was about the only part actually)

I set about building my own Thermostat Delete using these parts.....



The spring is actually the one from the original Thermostat, it is not really necessary to have but it adds some stability to the set up.

The only modification is to drill the upper part of the cage assembly to accept the small self tapping screws which hold the washer in place.
When drilling this make sure you do it at the point where there is a 'leg' or support so that there is plenty of material for it to work on.



Next I assembled my parts, the nut and bolt goes through the washer and sits in the spring which sits in the base of the cage.
I did cheat and put a coin in the bottom to spread the load and make sure there is no way for the spring to rub on the plastic base part.

The four screws hold the washer down against the spring and they also act to hold the bolt head in place so nothing can come loose.



The washer is not a perfect fit in the recess, there is about 0.5 - 1.0 mm gap all round to allow a very slight by-pass, but not much.
(The Spring set up is not really necessary but it adds stability to the washer and stops the whole lot rattling around)

When the unit is fitted back into the radiator the four small screws are held in place against the outer casing and so nothing can come loose and cause any problems.

Results are excellent, my thermostat worries are gone and I shall be doing exactly the same to my Nuda 900R as soon as I possibly can.

 

[engineerk9]

Sweet.....appreciate it, engineerk9. I've got people that could do that. Can you email it to me?

HF

 

[Highfive]

Kind thanks!

HF

 

[M1A2TechPI]

Hi Mark, Excellent Field Engineering resulting in a Work Around and a somewhat cheaper. Regards, Chris

 

[teamkitty]

Hi Tinken, I finally got around to installing the thermostat delete last night. Everything came apart and went together without a hitch (thanks to Thor's hammer), but I'm wondering if I might have pushed it in too far? It's nice and snug, but when looking into the top hole, it sticks up about an 1/8 of an inch from flush. Does that even matter? (sorry for the crappy pics. )

 

[Highfive]

Well, good news.....I went ahead and placed an order for the Thermo-Delete in ZipTy's website last weekend. Never received a confirmation email from them. Bu the part arrived today at Rancho HighFive, just 3 business days later. Cost was $49.95 plus $9 shipping. Very nice looking piece, I must say. So, they obviously still have stock on this item.

I'm not really having any radiator or temp issues. Just thought it would be a good idea to have something like this on hand, in the event problem arises. Undecided yet, if I will proceed with install at this time. Kind of the 'ol "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule.

My compliments to Tinken on a nicely designed part. Aaahh heck.....I'll probably end up installing it this winter, just to have a "project" when I get bored.

HF

 

[engineerk9]

Ok so I finally got my Thermostat out of the casing, I had tried before and found it near on impossible, but this time I persevered.

Following on from the 'Real Radiator Fix' thread where it would appear there is a possibility of Thermostat failure causing overheating and potential for damage to the radiator, I was keen to do away with the nasty little fitting all together. Here in Philippines I really see no need for a Thermostat and anyway I always allow my bike to warm up to normal temperature before I ride it.

Removal of the actual was very much more difficult that had previously been described, the unit did not just tap out of the casing. I had to remove the radiator completely and go to work with a fair sized hammer.

The results were not really as planned, but as this was a 'do or die' job I only needed the bottom part of the cage assembly.View attachment 63525

So....with the bottom part of the cage assembly intact (that was about the only part actually)

I set about building my own Thermostat Delete using these parts.....

View attachment 63526

The spring is actually the one from the original Thermostat, it is not really necessary to have but it adds some stability to the set up.

The only modification is to drill the upper part of the cage assembly to accept the small self tapping screws which hold the washer in place.
When drilling this make sure you do it at the point where there is a 'leg' or support so that there is plenty of material for it to work on.

View attachment 63527

Next I assembled my parts, the nut and bolt goes through the washer and sits in the spring which sits in the base of the cage.
I did cheat and put a coin in the bottom to spread the load and make sure there is no way for the spring to rub on the plastic base part.

The four screws hold the washer down against the spring and they also act to hold the bolt head in place so nothing can come loose.

View attachment 63528

The washer is not a perfect fit in the recess, there is about 0.5 - 1.0 mm gap all round to allow a very slight by-pass, but not much.
(The Spring set up is not really necessary but it adds stability to the washer and stops the whole lot rattling around)

When the unit is fitted back into the radiator the four small screws are held in place against the outer casing and so nothing can come loose and cause any problems.

Results are excellent, my thermostat worries are gone and I shall be doing exactly the same to my Nuda 900R as soon as I possibly can.

Mark_H why didn't you just epoxy/glue a small disc on top of the cage? Somewhat simpler

 

[glitch_oz]

Hi Tinken, I finally got around to installing the thermostat delete last night. Everything came apart and went together without a hitch (thanks to Thor's hammer), but I'm wondering if I might have pushed it in too far? It's nice and snug, but when looking into the top hole, it sticks up about an 1/8 of an inch from flush. Does that even matter? (sorry for the crappy pics. )
View attachment 63637View attachment 63638

As long as the C-clip goes into the bottom grove of the T-delete unit, all's well.

 

[teamkitty]

As long as the C-clip goes into the bottom grove of the T-delete unit, all's well.

Thanks Glitch! The c-clip is in. We're good!

 

[Mark_H]

Mark_H why didn't you just epoxy/glue a small disc on top of the cage? Somewhat simpler

Epoxy glue and hot water is not the way to go when you cannot see if the glue is remaining intact. My design cannot disintegrate and is quite simple.

 

[Caiman]

After much annoyance and unnecessary kerfuffle I managed to order a Thermo delete for my Nuda. Can't wait to see Michaels expert design works

 

[Tinken]

You are missing something on your drawing. At first I thought the little tab positioned the spacer for flow, but it really doesn't matter which way it is turned. Pretty sure BMW designed it to keep it from moving under expansion and contraction. Might want to think about putting that in there.