But thousands of people use it for decades without issue. there are gears in a motor, oil pumps, cam gears, timing gears, turbos spinning 40K RPM, etc. to each his own, I have run car oil exclusively in 20 plus bikes for 20 plus years. No problem. IMHO just stay away from the friction modifier ones and your good to go. Clutches wear into the oil no matter what oil you run. Thats why we have to change it so often. Just make sure the oil you use has nothing written in the lower half of the iID circle on theback of the bottle.
I use this stuff now speced for european cars. 0-40 synthetic no friction modifiers (see lower part of the ID circle is blank)
I'm not going to get into a oil debate with anyone. I'm just going to throw this out for people to consider. Tribology is an exacting science, it is not conjecture, speculation or opinion and lubricants are not engineered from someones desk, they are formulated and tested both in the lab and in the field. With all that in mind do any of you truly believe that there is some sort of conspiracy between oil manufacturers to get you to spend a few cents more on motorcycle specific oil?
I use rotella t-6 synthetic in all my bikes with wet clutches. As long as the oil is "jaso ma certified" your good to go.
Me too. It's done well for 155,000 miles in one FJR, 40,000 on another, and 3,000 so far on the TR. Non friction modifiers, reasonable price, and nice gallon jugs via Wal-Mart.
Most modern 'car' oils have friction modifiers. That is my biggest issue with 'car' oils. And Rotella is a diesel oil, formulated for big-rigs, not cars. And yes, it is used successfully by many bike users and even spec'd as an alternative by at least one huge American motorcycle manufaturer (I won't mention any names). But as long as my new TR650 is under the manufacturers warranty, I will use an oil that meets spec.
That's exactly the kind I bought. 2 and 1/4 bottles tops it exactly to the max line. From what ever the dealer put in on my first service. I do find now shifting is way smoother and the engine noise has definitely quieted down....seems to run a bit cooler too, well the motor doesn't feel so hot against my legs.
I match Tinken point of view.. Surely they do. Mostly important the weather conditions where you live..and your are riding.. Anyway i still go on thinking cool system in Terra 650 not enaugh to hot countries in summertime. They should be installed much bigger cooling radiator..
That oil might not have moly or other friction modifiers, but SN/SM rated oils also have very limited zinc and phosphorous, two very important elements for a high performance engine oil.
It's actually only couple hundred parts per million off due to government regulations and that would be the SM rating. This keeps the ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) from adhering to the platinum in catalytic converters. Also, ZDDP is a friction modifier and too much out of balance may interfere with your wet clutch. The SN rating is for the added detergents in this oil which are commonly not found in very many oils on the market today. This rating allows the oil to clean out as much as 40% more sludge than SM rated oils.
It doesnt require a conspiracy, just a recognition that you can market differently to people with high performance engines who use lower quantities of oil at each change. They all went to the same business schools. Just imply some extra benefits, put in small packages and charge much more per unit. I started using Mobil 1 in a SRX600 Yamaha circa 1986 because the bike needed all the cooling help it could get. I was quite sensitive to the possibility of clutch slippage...but never detected any unusual behavior after several thousand miles of use. Im now running the 0w "European" Mobil 1 stuff in my 511 (started with a leftover bottle from the last oil change on my wife's former MB) and still find no problems either when using or when examining the frequently changed oil.
Not to be contrary, but ZDDP is an antiwear, antioxidant, and anti-corrosion additive, not a friction modifier. It forms a sacrificial layer on metal parts that reduces scuffing if there is a boundary failure of the lubricant like when the oil gets squeezed out between a cam lobe and a tappet. Molybdenum is a common friction modifier.
SPECTRO, there is no other oil except what the Sheik sucks out of the ground. I listen to old wisdom as well. < George
I was reading up on oils recently and decided to go with the Castrol Actevo x-tra.4t from Walleye World. It's a 50/50 syth blend. I forget who was going to do the Hare Scramble and had a clutch slip and decided against it. My Terra has had minor slippage, and after reading decided to try a blend. Castrol Act>evo XtraTM 4T Motorcycle Oil Castrol Act>evo XtraTM 4T with Trizone Technology is a part-synthetic, 4-stroke motorcycle oil specially formulated with Heat Protection Molecules to protect your motorcycle’s engine against high temperature deposits and wear. These advanced molecules combat and minimize the formation of harmful high temperature combustion deposits which start to occur when your bike is working hard – on the open road or in dense city traffic. Features and Benefits Continuous protection of engine and transmission Excellent engine wear protection during long trips, short commuting and stop/start conditions Superior high temperature oil consumption and oxidation control Outstanding high temperature air-cooled engine performance for hard working bikes Good gear and wet clutch performance . Warranty and Protection Requirements Exceeds engine manufacturer’s warranty requirements for applications requiring API SG and JASO MA-2 I see no reason to spend 12 bucks a quart for oil.
That stuff is probably just fine, I have been a loyal Castrol fan since the 80's. I did however, inquire about the Eneos oil since Kyle Larson picked up their sponsorship.
