250-500cc wr 250 or 300

no surprise on the revalve and spring.

I might have missed something in the thread but i thought i read through it pretty good but if you could only have either the 250 or 300 to race what would it be? Does the 250 rev quicker and wear you out less? or is the 300 better in a race situation? I understand there are different situations that you would rather have one over the other but factor that out for right now please i'm just curious because i'm considering one of these bikes or a txc 310 for my next bike

Id go with the 300 for that little bit of added torque and lower end power. I rode my TE449 on some of the same single track i ride with the WR and I was getting tired quicker. I was stalling out trying to clutch thru tight/large rocks in real tech sections where the WR almost never stalls. The price is almost identical, why not go with the 300? You could always find someone with a 250 who would be happy to swap you top ends haha

Ok I have both a Wr 250 and a Wr 300 The 250 is stock the 300 has a stock motor but with Cr electronicts and Ohliens front and rear .As far as motors goes they are really
about the same.The 300 might just have a little more grunt,but really you would never really need it.If you are going to race it get the 250 as you will be at the top of your class.
If you get the 300 and race it you will have to race against the 450 and open class.Can be done just a little harder.
Yesterday I rode my 300 testing for King of the Moto riding in the rockest stuff I could find.Today I rode the 250 in the same stuff Other then the suspention the bikes acted the same.I flat could not stall the 250 and it climbed every hill I pointed it at. So only difference I would say is the 250 should be cheaper and if you race the 250 class is easier then the open class.Plus you can always make the 250 bigger if you hurt the cly.
Hope this help you Side by side if I was getting a new bike and the 250 was cheaper i would get the 250

Yes it does help thanks either way I still race open class its more competitive on my circuit and I like the fact there are always more entries in that then the 250 class. I want to stay away from a thumper since the last one I had was an absolute tank and when trying to ride for more than 2 hours as fast as possible that becomes a burden

some more very good info on this. is there any weight difference between the 250 and 300? i'm guessing no. what is a fair price on a 10 left over in each flavor?

are these bikes wired for lights from the factory?

I'm not sure where you live but I would give Bill at BMP or Halls Cycle a call. I had all the same questions before I bought my 09 WR250 so I called Bill and he answered every question in a short phone conversation. I bought a new in the crate bike and he shipped it to Oklahoma where I used to live for about $200. Halls in Springfield IL is also a great source for information and parts.

My 09 WR250 has a 55 amp stator and was wired for a headlight and tail light only but with a 55 amp stator has plenty of power for add ons like heated grips or a brighter headlamp.

i live in ma and wouldn't have an issue having a bike sent out for the right price. i see bills has a 12 250 for 5900, thats what my local wanted for a 10. the real deal is the price on a 250 4 stroke. 4200.

A 2012 250 for $5900 is high; that same price for a 2010 is NUTS.

Husky FACTORY incentive pricing for a 2012 250 is $5549 (http://heroesridehuskys.com/pages/13promo.html). I see no reason why someone should pay any more than that. I paid $5100 for my 2012 WR 300, and I didn't have any kind of inside line or anything.

I would not pay more than $5500 for a 2012 leftover 250/300. For a 2010 leftover (who still has one of those?), I wouldn't pay more than, I dunno, maybe $4000, $4500?

dealer bought the 10's as stock from another dealer i believe. i was thinking 4k when i talked to him. when he said 5500 i walked out.

I paid $4,900.00 for my 09 WR 250 in the fall of 2010. The 2010s and newer have a different fork but other than that they are about the same. Some like the open Zokes better for the woods and others like the KYBs. I've had Yamahas with open and closed KYBs and in the woods I like the Zokes just as much. No matter what you end up with fork wise you can re-valve and be extremely happy and still have more money in your pocket to do mods than if you had bought another brand bike.

Mostly trails-the 300
Racing at the edge of your strength, ability and energy-the 250

Toytech in PA (near harrisburg has a 250 and a 300. They are titled as 2013s. I'll ask Scott what his price is on those two units.

speaking of tittled, how do these come tittled? offroad only? my plan is to get a plate for it, while it won't be a road warrior, it will need to be plaed for some stuff that i do.

Depends what your dealer puts on the pink slip. OR or MC.
There are WRs in the country with lights but they were apparently not intended to be sent to the States and are European models. The new Ducati igntion is not strong enough to run a light from what Ive been told. On the other hand, I ride with a guy who has a 2012 WR250 and has no issues with his light or ignition..at any rate, having a stock headlighr will make things easier for you if you title it for the road.

I was able to get a title and tag for the 09 WR250 that I got from Bills. This was in Oklahoma and much of what OK does is pretty sketchy and depends which tag office you walk in, they usually just want your money.

mass sucks, but i have ways around it. send it to a buddy in nh and have them get it tittled.

I tried to get a tag for the '09, but since it wasn't done when NEW, and I was the 4th one on the MSO, Floriduh said I would have to track down the original owner or some stupid stuff. Was too much trouble so if you're thinkin' about it, do it with a new bike......... But I was able to get a plate with the TXC by buying a DualSport Kit with it, funny.....