TE/TC ZipTy Racing 4CS mod suspension A++++

What about the "huck valve" that Kreft and MX-Tech sell which is supposed to act as a bottoming control device and allow for lower fluid levels?

I like Adam's mid valves, great design, but I am not impressed with his machining on his other parts. He offers a high resolution image, you can take a look for yourself. He is very expensive @ $1075 for forks alone, not including oil, seals, etc. I'm not sure how well his diamond finish works or if it will actually wear the fork seals faster. Our system does the same thing without the cut grooves and we don't charge you for it.

Well halls revalved my front and rear. If I don't like it I know where I'll send it for sure......

that 2 port valve must work well at the beginning but without doing any engineering studies I "think" they will have bent shims leading to always open valves in no time. The industry standard 3 way OEM valves prevents the taco folding of the shims as they open thus reducing single point metal fatigue. thats my My opinion without an engineering metal analysis

Had a couple of hard bottoms cha ching metal sound and couple of softer bottoms , consulted with Ty he recommended I add 20cc oil (5w) per leg for bottoming resistance.
(No clicker movement at all, I don't want to screw things up)
We added 10cc per leg and I will go do the same spots again and see where she's at, its easy to add more if needed. I just want the most air gap with the most bottom resistance---well crap I just want everything don't I?

Slight change Ergo wise my bar clamps are in the fwd mount with the clamp in the aft offset position, bars are almost directly over the ctr of fork legs. OEM Neken Bars
Balanced my front wheel with stick on weights, Ive been using the rim lock on the front even with the mousse.

No recall for US on 4CS-----my recommendation do a self recall them and get them properly tuned for your personal preference. I could not come to grips with them, even after lots of tuning, adjusting, science and playing around.
Ty and crew did a fork reconfigure that works perfectly for me, its the plush but up in the stroke feel I was looking for.

suspension is stupid good.....missed our little step rock launch spot and hit this undercut 4 foot rock step dead on from only a load unload move rode right over it. Its really un explainable but this really is an advanced hit, some of my crew simply go around it, and this is the first time ive ever just hit the thing straight on with no pre rock front wheel loft. There isnt even really a run up to it a sharp downhill left into a low spot sandy area then wham you are coming at this ledge from an angle.

I may add 5cc more, more testing tommorrow for day 2 of the 2 day enduro grand prix!! heading to a new zone, have not been there with the TE300, its a great trail with hard embedded sharp rocks and steep drops and climbs, smooth is the key, get too throttle happy and get pitched.

ride done.....big long.....27 miles..., yesterday was 25mi on easier more flowing stuff with some high level stuff thrown in. Today was a real hardcore Tecate training test. The bike is amazing and with only one semi hard bottom yesterday I will leave oil level as is (with the 10cc added). Today no bottoms with some waterfall type stuff up and down. Bike is so well balanced now. really amazing thanks ZipTy Racing Ty you guys nailed it really nailed it. As I get more in tune with the machine Im smoother and she is just eating loose sharp rocks as well as hard solid stuff. Today was a leg burner big time I just juiced up with RynoPower to feed that burn!! we rode a high level loop today, Im also proud of the other Ty D who is the new owner of my ex TXC310R, the guy held his own all morning (also on ZipTy suspension) the most I gapped him in sections was about a minute. I'd put him now as a solid 40B/Intermediate enduro rider the guy has really raised his game!

Also shout out (RLR) for the east coasters (Norm et al) I used some very serious Mike Lafferty (and RLR) tips today to clear very low hanging branches for oak and big rip you off the bike manzanita= don't sit in those duck under corners, crouch opposite and tuck the bike under, it actually gives more clearance to sneak under while maintaining forward motion and control.

I like this thread... lol

Ha ha and to think I considered taking the offer of trading my 4cs forks for cc chamber forks off a 14 KTM... I like the adjustment clickers on top. Didn't my 96 husky with right side up forks (zokes I think) have this same feature? Revalved they were pretty darn good. In fact that bike was just plain good

I might know the trail you're talking about-my boy and I went to Lake Morena last week; there's one single-track trail that's definitely third-loop stuff! Only trouble is, I rode it when I was fresh. In Tecate they'll throw this at you after 80 hard miles!

the one i was speaking of was not in the park....

I don't really want to give up my fork adjustment up top since I do races in locations I've never ridden I will make adjustments here an there as I ride. Can zip ty make this fork better without the bottom valve? Would you just be getting a basic revalve a that point or would they modifiy any other internals plus valving? I'm just curious and I don't mind basically one click up top equalling two clicks on a normal set up but if they're saying I need to ditch the top adjustment for a traditional top and bottom to actually make the fork better then that's another thing. Anyone know the answers?

Our rebuild comes with full spring and re-valve.

Yes.

Chums, nobody can tell you what you need, especially from the all mighty internet. the OEM set up may be perfect for you and your style/ terrain etc.
Im only saying what was done to mine to get them the exact way I wanted them to behave. what they did was inconsequential to me, I did not care if they completely replaced my entire front end, I just wanted them to work the way I dreamed they would/could work and now they do with this current configuration installed. R

with this internet thing everyone gets biased from folks (me too) coming up with all these mods to fix this change this etc etc . Get out and thrash your stuff feel it learn it and make personal informed decisions about where if any mods you feel you need. All my stuff is always to improve my comfort, confidence, speed and safety, this fork configuration that the ZipTy team did for me accomplished all these items. confidence is big one for me,,i was super gunshy with the oem forks...now I just slam stuff, AA stuff ugly stuff with confidence.

Disregard...LOL

I hear ya but I have had mine sprung by two different places and valved and now getting the springs and valving redone since it sucked the first time. I, like you, just want the things to work but really do like the top adjustment at an arms reach thus the question. Between the set ups below I've logged over 50hrs and 17 races this summer and 5 different front tires and it never felt good.... I'm frustrated and tired of spending money, set me up with a try it before ya buy it deal and then we're talking lol!

1- spung 48 and 61 stock valving soooo soft I couldn't hit anything at speed, front end unpredictable and washing or tucking in corners never knew which. Nice trail rider though.
2- sprung 52 & 61 stiffer valving front and rear. Could blast anything wide open and know nothing crazy was going to happen but so rough I felt every bump still pushed bad in corners no tucking anymore.
3- sprung 50 & 61 lighter valving have not ridden....throwing on 22mm offset clamps, front has always felt to light and twitchy at slower speeds.

Mid pack A rider 230lbs out of the shower. (Working on lowering that 230 number lol!)

I agree with Robert on this one.....

It all depends on you....

First you need to be able to figure out what you front end is or isnt doing.... then translate that to your suspension guy....need to be able to tell if its highspeed/lowspeed compression/rebound.... most people have a hard time with it.... also making sure its set up right...

I'm not a big fan of the 4cs forks that I've ridden so far and some bikes I switched to older forks.... I like the sound of the ZipTy stuff tho....

So some how the bottom adjusters give you more than just more adjustment or allow something to change inside that helps this fork. So I'd need to give up the top only adjusters. That's what I was wondering.