• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

09 TE 310 overheating and clutch drag issues...

michaelyogi

michaelyogi

Husqvarna
AA Class
I know another overheating issue... I've search the forums and haven't found a solution yet, so here is what I'm dealing with...

Bike overheats a spews fluid from overflow tank on hill climbs or tight slow singletrack... also bubbles after engine is shut off. Fan works overtime all the time except when cruising down the asphalt at 50mph... no overheating issue at speed. Bike still makes great power... Tasky's says the head gaskets are an issue in the TE 310...
I've ordered a new TC radiator hose, 1.6 bar cap and HF impeller... should be here tomorrow.
Clutch is a real drag, literally. Almost impossible to get it into neutral with engine running and the bike tries to move forward when starting. Sometimes I have to put it into neutral in order to even start it. In order to get into neutral with engine running I have to blip the throttle and hit neutral... with out the throttle blip I cannot get the bike into neutral.
Bike has 4000 miles on it... PCV and Autotune... EE radiator guards and louvers are in place...
 
shilo020 said:
Clutch fluid ok? Maybe need new pistons. Now that was a space out... Bike is new to me this summer... forgot it had a hydro clutch... fluid is low... I'll get some fluid into it and report back.
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OlderHuskyRider said:
Are you running a 15w50 fully synthetic oil? During the spring/fall- 0-40 synthetic... during the summer- 20-50 synthetic.
Are the aftermarket radiator louvers a different design from the OEM? OEM.
Click to expand...

Tinken said:
Do you use EngineIce coolant? I picked some up... just waiting for the new cap and hose... so I can do it all at once.
Click to expand...

Thx for the replies... the rest of the new parts should be here soon... I'll get them in and report back. I'm sure the dragging clutch is contributing to the heat issue.
 
Wow, someone that uses 0w40 other than me. The difference between 0w40 and 20w50 @ 302° is .5 viscosity (basically nothing). Might as well run it year around. ;)
 
Tinken said:
Wow, someone that uses 0w40 other than me. The difference between 0w40 and 20w50 @ 302° is .5 viscosity (basically nothing). Might as well run it year around. ;)
Click to expand...

There was an article posted out here on oil :) ... The guy writing it was all about the cold rating of the oil and continued to stress the importance of the thickness of the oil at start-up time and was not too concerned on the oil at operating temp (212 degrees?) ... Not sure if he ever mentioned a SS filter as a way to increase oil flow at start-up time ... Thicker oil and paper filters == by-pass valve opening on the filter when the oil is at cool temps ... SS filters are more free flowing at all temps ...

Myself, I'm not ready for 0WT oil (the same thickness as water) in my bike but I do have an SS filter to help thicker oil circulate at start-up time ...

My bike needs a true synthetic oil or the clutch drags very badly as Michael describe above ... I'm OK with this as I'm on the clutch always on the trails and my bike has worked flawlessly almost with the synthetic oils ...
 
ray_ray said:
There was an article posted out here on oil :) ... The guy writing it was all about the cold rating of the oil and continued to stress the importance of the thickness of the oil at start-up time and was not too concerned on the oil at operating temp (212 degrees?) ... Not sure if he ever mentioned a SS filter as a way to increase oil flow at start-up time ... Thicker oil and paper filters == by-pass valve opening on the filter when the oil is at cool temps ... SS filters are more free flowing at all temps ...

Myself, I'm not ready for 0WT oil (the same thickness as water) in my bike but I do have an SS filter to help thicker oil circulate at start-up time ...

My bike needs a true synthetic oil or the clutch drags very badly as Michael describe above ... I'm OK with this as I'm on the clutch always on the trails and my bike has worked flawlessly almost with the synthetic oils ...
Click to expand...

No argument here over the use of SS filters, they flow much better than paper ones and is covered in Haas's article. 0 weight oil actually has a viscosity of 40 when cold, 11 times thicker than the oil should be lubricate at normal operating temperatures, still too thick to lubricate properly cold, and half as thick as 20w50 cold. Therefore 0w will attain full oil pressure from the start and will out flow higher weights of oil. Because flow = lubrication and not pressure, 0 weight will lubricate better from start up. The question that arises is if 0w40 can maintain oil pressure at temperatures higher than 302°. Ferrari recommends the use age of 10w60 when oil reaches higher temperatures such as 450° during circle track races where the engine is ran hard for extended amounts of time. The engine suffers from the increased wear until the engine reaches these higher temperatures, but when racing, the engines are torn down regularly anyway and it doesn't matter.

Some oil contains additives which keep seals pliable and soft. These additives tend to swell the seals and make them leak resistant. The same additives will swell clutch fiber material and cause them to drag. I know that Mobil 1 does not include these additives except for their high mileage oil product, which should be avoided. Stay away from oils which claim "A formulation designed specifically for vehicles with over 75,000 miles, High Mileage motor oil helps extend engine life and contains seal conditioner to help prevent leaks." Almost every oil manufacturer has one product line with this formulation.

I'm sure there are many factors, such as hydraulic fluid levels, etc.
 
0W mineral based multi-grade oils use VIIs to obtain the higher rating ... VIIs can break down over time and back to 0W performance at all temps ...

Synthetic are a different story but still not sure on 0W ... Not too smart here and it takes time for an idea, even the correct idea, to sink in ...
 
4000 miles is not a lot for an 09 310. It seems the issues are more akin to previous maintenance tardiness. I would do a radiator flush prior to putting in the good stuff. Use White vinegar (descales the innards) for an initial flush, then a water flush. I usually pour in and out a little of the nice new coolant say half a litre/1 pint to dispell the water then put the new coolant in and Bobs your uncle.
 
ghte said:
4000 miles is not a lot for an 09 310. It seems the issues are more akin to previous maintenance tardiness. I would do a radiator flush prior to putting in the good stuff. Use White vinegar (descales the innards) for an initial flush, then a water flush. I usually pour in and out a little of the nice new coolant say half a litre/1 pint to dispell the water then put the new coolant in and Bobs your uncle.
Click to expand...

4000 shouldn't be much at all with the newer technology motors... Flush is a good idea. Thx.
 
Ok, so I got the new impeller and radiator hose in... flush and Engine Ice. Rode for a bit to heat it up and check for leaks... all good so far. Flow is much improved... the '10 TC 310 radiator hose and the HF impeller sure made a huge difference. When I start the bike up, I can see the flow out the right radiator inlet (cap off of course). Whereas with the stock impeller, I couldn't tell if coolant was flowing or not.
So, I'm gonna' say it here.. the '10 TC 310 radiator hose does fit the '09 TE 310 and eliminates the problematic Husky "T" and is cheaper, by almost half the price, than the Uptite "Y" (sorry George). I found this info out buy searching the site...I do want to support the site sponsors but sometimes the price point is the choice... and Halls got the dollar... so, still supporting a site sponsor.
Clutch tomorrow... and hopefully a test ride. Woot!
 
michaelyogi said:
Ok, so I got the new impeller and radiator hose in... flush and Engine Ice. Rode for a bit to heat it up and check for leaks... all good so far. Flow is much improved... the '10 TC 310 radiator hose and the HF impeller sure made a huge difference. When I start the bike up, I can see the flow out the right radiator inlet (cap off of course). Whereas with the stock impeller, I couldn't tell if coolant was flowing or not.
So, I'm gonna' say it here.. the '10 TC 310 radiator hose does fit the '09 TE 310 and eliminates the problematic Husky "T" and is cheaper, by almost half the price, than the Uptite "Y" (sorry George). I found this info out buy searching the site...I do want to support the site sponsors but sometimes the price point is the choice... and Halls got the dollar... so, still supporting a site sponsor.
Clutch tomorrow...
Click to expand...

I put that HP water pump on my bike also and it really helped on the cooling ... The propeller fit the on the shaft loosely but it has never came off... I added some loctite on the shaft just to ensure it stayed on...
 
ray_ray said:
The propeller fit the on the shaft loosely but it has never came off... I added some loctite on the shaft just to ensure it stayed on...
Click to expand...

Yeah mine was loose also until I put a whopping 6# of torque to it... I'm hoping the red Locktite will insure it stays "torqued".
 
So I got the hydro clutch bled and refilled. Upon starting the bike, there is still a slight movement forward but I don't have to apply the brakes. Plus (big plus actually) I can actually get the bike into neutral while the motor is running... no blip necessary. In fact I had to do it a few times just to be sure!
Test ride soon... this weekend sometime.
 
michaelyogi said:
So I got the hydro clutch bled and refilled. Upon starting the bike, there is still a slight movement forward but I don't have to apply the brakes. Plus (big plus actually) I can actually get the bike into neutral while the motor is running... no blip necessary. In fact I had to do it a few times just to be sure!
Test ride soon... this weekend sometime.
Click to expand...

What about the engine oil? Any changes there?
 
OK I got a hundred miles in today... bike still over heated on a first gear single track trail... rather I should say, the bike still boiled over... all over my boot and pant leg. So what's next?
Clutch on the other hand seemed better, less drag at start but still cannot get her into neutral without a throttle blip.
 
michaelyogi said:
OK I got a hundred miles in today... bike still over heated on a first gear single track trail... rather I should say, the bike still boiled over... all over my boot and pant leg. So what's next?
Clutch on the other hand seemed better, less drag at start but still cannot get her into neutral without a throttle blip.
Click to expand...

Did you have have the new coolant in the bike?

Not trying to let the bike off the hook here but water cooled engines are gonna overheat if not kept at a certain speed ... Thats why many of us would like to see air-cooled engines back in some fashion ...

My 08 TXC250 is gonna overheat on technical stuff ...ESP on hot days in the sun ... I have to ride defensively to help the bike ... roll down hills with the engine off, shut the engine when stopped (no idling) ... maybe let my friends get ahead of me a good distance sometimes so that I can maintain speed ... If stuck in a section, I gotta get out of it quickly or I'll just kill the engine and let it cool off... I'm the issue many times for riding like a hondo guy I think and not the bike ...

Some of the Huskies have that neutral issue problem ...Mine does but I'm ok with it ... There were some things said about something in the tranny causing this sometimes but I can't remember the real cause or solution ... PM BMP and they might know something specific on this issue ...
 
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