• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

09 TE 310 overheating and clutch drag issues...

So you are talking about the Mobile 1 0w40 for cars right? I don't see a motorcycle specific 0w40 offered on the Mobil 1 website. i too have significant clutch drag and it is very hard to push the bike in gear with the clutch in. When the engine is hot it doesn't like to start in gear. I am running the Castrol racing full syn 10w50 now.
 
I changed oil last night (used the Mobil 1 0w40 Euro syn) and I noticed better shifter right out of the box. Downshifting seems buttery smooth. Clutch drag seems less but I only rode for about an hour. I am headed up North for 2 weeks of heavy riding with plenty of deep sand so that will be a better test.
 
I'm afraid my 310 has a leaky head gasket also. It has been blowing coolant from the overflow bottle for a while now but the motor or radiators never get "hot" as in over heating. Bike runs 100% perfectly but after a quick ride the other day after repairing some electrical problems I noticed some milky oil through the sight glass :(. The bike hasn't been submerged since the last oil change and hasn't sucked in any water.

I'm a little pissed off as the motor hasn't been ridden very hard with frequent oil changes with fully synthetic. Will talk to my mechanic tomorrow.
 
duggoey said:
I'm afraid my 310 has a leaky head gasket also. It has been blowing coolant from the overflow bottle for a while now but the motor or radiators never get "hot" as in over heating. Bike runs 100% perfectly but after a quick ride the other day after repairing some electrical problems I noticed some milky oil through the sight glass :(. The bike hasn't been submerged since the last oil change and hasn't sucked in any water.

I'm a little pissed off as the motor hasn't been ridden very hard with frequent oil changes with fully synthetic. Will talk to my mechanic tomorrow.
Click to expand...


One cause might be that the head bolts get a little loose, and then compression starts seeping out past the HG in one vulnerable area, then coolant starts seeping back the other way, and it starts small and just gets gradually worse, it happened to me.

It's not a hard thing to replace AND you get to check the feel of the camshaft bearings, I checked all mine for play and for rough rolling, they were all perfect.
 
Ok back here again. This time with a stripped water pump shaft. Taskys in Everett, Wa to the rescue. Parts on the way. I'll post a pic when I get it opened up again.
I think I rode the Foggy Dew loop and Horsehead Pass to S. Navarre before I discovered this. These are tough motors. Delicately put together though...
 
michaelyogi said:
Ok back here again. This time with a stripped water pump shaft. Taskys in Everett, Wa to the rescue. Parts on the way. I'll post a pic when I get it opened up again.
Click to expand...


There's a way to replace the water pump shaft without removing the cams, when are you gonna start the job?
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
There's a way to replace the water pump shaft without removing the cams, when are you gonna start the job?
Click to expand...
As soon as the parts get here. Winter's comin' and I need to get some more ridin' in.
I saw your technique with the bungee holding the main cam gear. How hard is it to remove the shaft itself?
Taskys is sending me a complete water pump they pulled off of a blown TE450.
 
michaelyogi said:
I saw your technique with the bungee holding the main cam gear. How hard is it to remove the shaft itself?
Click to expand...

You still have to pull the cam chain tensioner, so that the WP shaft will be relaxed. Pulling the tensioner will cause there to be a bit of shifting in the valve train, but you keep everything where it's supposed to be, and the gears engaged, your cam timing will stay exactly the same.
 
Got parts in yesterday. I'll be tearing into the water pump tonight. Anything I need to know about removing the cam chain tensioner? Do I need a new gasket? I didn't think about that...
 
When you remove the CCT, try not to bump it or jostle it so that it stays at its' adjustment position, and you can count how many clicks the plunger is protruding into the chain, supposed to give you a rough idea of the stretched status of the cam chain.
 
Did you get the overheating issue fixed and what was proplem.I got 2011 te 310 having proplems with heating and starting it when it gets hot ( takes +15minute to start again and eats always about 5cm coolant from radiator when riding enduro ) I think head casget leak hot air to cooling system like ohr:s bike did
 
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