09 TE 310 overheating and clutch drag issues...

[woodzi]

I had similar problems with my 310 this year and yes, it was the head gasket. First time the cylinder and head looked flat, so we just put in a new gasket, but problems came back. So I took it apart again and had the cylinder and head measured properly and we found that the head was not flat.

 

[michaelyogi]

I had similar problems with my 310 this year and yes, it was the head gasket. First time the cylinder and head looked flat, so we just put in a new gasket, but problems came back. So I took it apart again and had the cylinder and head measured properly and we found that the head was not flat.

I just had a block test done... no exhaust gasses found in the cooling system. Did you suffer any power loss during this? Any other symptoms, other than boiling over/ puking?

 

[woodzi]

Power was good, no smoke, no sparkling clean spark plug - just kept blowing out coolant. Tried a new rad cap and still did it. When we took it apart, we could see where the head gasket was leaking.

 

[michaelyogi]

Power was good, no smoke, no sparkling clean spark plug - just kept blowing out coolant. Tried a new rad cap and still did it. When we took it apart, we could see where the head gasket was leaking.

Did your 310 puke all the time or just when it the ambient temps were above 80 degrees? My spark plug (last I looked) is a beautiful brown color. I think it should have puked on this ride... tough slow climbs, first gear occasionally second gear.

 

[michaelyogi]

Ok so I wanted to revive this thread 'cause the spring season us upon us. I decided to break the Dawg outta' winter storage.... Lo and behold what do I find... a cracked intake mainfold. Not really sure if this was leaking or not I ordered a replacement. Upon replacement I inspected the original a little closer...


Quite possibly a small intake leak. I can open the gap in the second photo more than is shown in the pic.
Temps are cool here right now. Won't really get the chance to test this 'til the temps heat up some.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Let's talk about head gaskets... anybody ever have overheating issues caused by a head gasket? Like I said in an earlier post, great power all through the throttle and temperature range. Could I have a head gasket issue that just never gets worse?

Just got a "block test' done... head gasket is not leaking. I think I might just run it and see if she seizes... maybe it has too much fluid in the rads. I keep the level at the top of the cooling fins... Dunno' at this point.
Bike runs great at all times... even when puking on my boot.

If you haven't seen my head gasket experience, check my thread, I did a blue liquid coolant test for exhaust gasses, came up negative, I had no bubbling in my coolant stream, no white smoke out the exhaust, but I was overheating and the bike ran great except it started a problem where it would get waterlogged after 5-10 minutes of sitting hot. It could be a small leak in your head gasket.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/dual-sporting-a-2010-te-450-with-cheap-tricks.15347/page-9

 

[michaelyogi]

OlderHuskyRider I'll be watching out your thread also. Thx.

 

[michaelyogi]

Head gasket! Bike started boiling over again with the hotter temps. Runs great, it just boils the coolant. I drained out the Engine Ice and replaced it with the Zip-Ty waterless coolant. The old coolant was dark and sooty looking. No more boil over now. I'll start collecting parts for replacing the head gasket.
OHR you called it!

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Head gasket! Bike started boiling over again with the hotter temps. Runs great, it just boils the coolant. I drained out the Engine Ice and replaced it with the Zip-Ty waterless coolant. The old coolant was dark and sooty looking. No more boil over now. I'll start collecting parts for replacing the head gasket.
OHR you called it!

Yeah, these very small HG leaks don't really leak enough to show on a blue-liquid leak test, but the compression gasses really do heat up the coolant, way beyond boiling.

Don't try and get a HG thinner or thicker than the one on your bike now, it will screw up your positioning for cam timing and you might lose your cookies trying to figure out the adjustment that has to be made when re-assembling, I almost did...if your bike has a 1.1 HG, get a 1.1, etc

I did not pull the cylinder nor replace the base gasket.

Get your cams aligned ti TDC and take a picture of the cam lobes. Also, go over to the left side of the bike and takes pics of the dimple dots on the left side of the cam gears when at TDC, this will allow you to re-do the cam timing without resorting to dfecfkel's technique.

You have a 310, you might be able to get the head off without pulling the cylinder studs or motor. If not, you'll have to choose 1:
pull the cylinder studs with a vise-grip,
or
pull the motor out of the frame.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Head gasket! Bike started boiling over again with the hotter temps. Runs great, it just boils the coolant. I drained out the Engine Ice and replaced it with the Zip-Ty waterless coolant. The old coolant was dark and sooty looking. No more boil over now. I'll start collecting parts for replacing the head gasket.
OHR you called it!

You could also try that leaky HG repair snot stuff, I chose not to, didn't want to pollute my sweet 450 motor, it's been very good to me even as I have been very cruel to it....15,000 miles and still runnin' strong.

 

[Tinken]

Did you ever fix your clutch drag?

 

[michaelyogi]

Did you ever fix your clutch drag?

I got it to be better but not totally gone. I've purchased a new control rod. Should be here soon... back ordered. I did put a new o-ring on the slave piston. That helped some also.

 

[michaelyogi]

Don't try and get a HG thinner or thicker than the one on your bike now, it will screw up your positioning for cam timing and you might lose your cookies trying to figure out the adjustment that has to be made when re-assembling, I almost did...if your bike has a 1.1 HG, get a 1.1, etc
How do I tell which HG I have presently?

I did not pull the cylinder nor replace the base gasket. Nor shall I.

Get your cams aligned ti TDC and take a picture of the cam lobes. Also, go over to the left side of the bike and takes pics of the dimple dots on the left side of the cam gears when at TDC, this will allow you to re-do the cam timing without resorting to dfecfkel's technique. Ok.

You have a 310, you might be able to get the head off without pulling the cylinder studs or motor. If not, you'll have to choose 1:
pull the cylinder studs with a vise-grip,
or
pull the motor out of the frame. Keeping my fingers crossed on this one.

Thx for the info OHR.

 

[michaelyogi]

Damn! 09 TE310 head gasket is flippin' expensive! Seriously!?

 

[Tinken]

We switched all of our 310's to 0W40, no more clutch drag.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

I got it to be better but not totally gone. I've purchased a new control rod. Should be here soon... back ordered. I did put a new o-ring on the slave piston. That helped some also.

Be sure and put a tape measure on both rods, I'm thinking for the new rod to help, it needs to be longer.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

How do I tell which HG I have presently?

There's a little tab on the HG that sticks out from the rear, under the water temp sensor, it's stamped on that: 1.0 or 1.1 or 1.2

 

[michaelyogi]

We switched all of our 310's to 0W40, no more clutch drag.

Motor oil?

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Motor oil?

It's a new Euro type of "improved flow at start up" kind of oil, I've got a bottle of it and am mixing it with my 15w50.

I've never had any drag on my clutch and you and I have the same motor, my theory is the clutch rod is too short for some motors, motors that are a little wider than normal, you could have tried to shim the clutch rod a little, but if your new rod is about a 1/16" longer, I think your problem will be solved.

 

[shilo020]

I have the 0w40 and the clutch still drags. I don't worry about it much. Sometimes it's a little hard to start in gear. That is better with the new oil. And can be hard to push in gear but pushes fine in N so...