• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 125 / 144 / 165 Owners Poll

Do you have a WB165?

  • Yes, I have the WB165 kit and loving it.

    Votes: 25 29.8%
  • Not yet, but I plan to buy it.

    Votes: 42 50.0%
  • No interest. I'm happy with the 144 kit.

    Votes: 12 14.3%
  • No interest. I'm happy with it as a 125 only.

    Votes: 5 6.0%

  • Total voters
    84
I would definitely recommend riding a 165 first if you can before you commit. I rode Walt's when he was visiting and it is not for me. Imagine a good handling Bultaco 250 Alpina without the blubbery Bing carb. Very torquey bottom end followed by a strong mid-range and early sign-off. I love it when my 150 hits on the top end and screams. May not be the fastest way down the trail but it makes my old heart go pitty-pat. :D

Buddy Blake was on the fence after riding mine to thinking it actually had to much power and not enough over rev for his liking. He ened up getting a 165 kit and PC pipe from Walt and he is VERY happy with it. Is for sure softer on the bottom but revs out like the 125 and makes more power everywhere. I prefer the FMF piped motor and big bottom and mid. This 165 allows you to have whatever powerband you want via the pipe.
 
Ive just come back from my first enduro and can report some good and bad things. Starting with the bad first, im 211lbs fully clothed with camel back and this could be why the wr125 has no bottom to mid range power. Ive emptied the 7ltr petrol tank in 12 miles causing me a dnf result. The good news is its a tool in the woods and it has enough top power. Im interested in a big bore kit and would like to see dyno results if this is available? I would say about 20-30% increase in bottom to mid power will make this bike perfect. So again if someone has all three dyno results from the same dyno house for the 125/144/165......converting my bike to either the 144 or 165 is not cheap$$$$$ i need to make a decision on whether to keepi this bike or sell it.

Sorry of im slightly of topic with these questions.
 
Ive just come back from my first enduro and can report some good and bad things. Starting with the bad first, im 211lbs fully clothed with camel back and this could be why the wr125 has no bottom to mid range power. Ive emptied the 7ltr petrol tank in 12 miles causing me a dnf result. The good news is its a tool in the woods and it has enough top power. Im interested in a big bore kit and would like to see dyno results if this is available? I would say about 20-30% increase in bottom to mid power will make this bike perfect. So again if someone has all three dyno results from the same dyno house for the 125/144/165......converting my bike to either the 144 or 165 is not cheap$$$$$ i need to make a decision on whether to keepi this bike or sell it.

Sorry of im slightly of topic with these questions.


First of all you need the big tank. Next you for sure need to set your float level to about 14mm. Mine was set at 8mm and pumped out fuel all the time. Be sure to run correct jetting.
 
Ive just come back from my first enduro and can report some good and bad things. Starting with the bad first, im 211lbs fully clothed with camel back and this could be why the wr125 has no bottom to mid range power. Ive emptied the 7ltr petrol tank in 12 miles causing me a dnf result. The good news is its a tool in the woods and it has enough top power. Im interested in a big bore kit and would like to see dyno results if this is available? I would say about 20-30% increase in bottom to mid power will make this bike perfect. So again if someone has all three dyno results from the same dyno house for the 125/144/165......converting my bike to either the 144 or 165 is not cheap$$$$$ i need to make a decision on whether to keepi this bike or sell it.

Sorry of im slightly of topic with these questions.

What gearing? my wr125 has 12/52 and it rips just about everywhere.Maybe something else is amiss(jetting)? I will be going 165 when my top end wears out but until then I'm really happy as is.
 
13/51 gearing will go to 12/51 thanks. Premix is 50:1? Not checked jetting as yet orr float height, but the bike idles fine and blipping the throttle im not hearing any engine bogging. A large fuuel tank sounds like a good idea, bit i need to have the bike pulling harder bottom to mid power talking of which aniy news on the dyno reports im seeking gentlemen?
 
You havnt mentioned what year your WR is
There is a load of low end hidden in most of these things but you have to do a fair amount of fiddling to find it
Mine was awfull when I first bought it but I soon thanks to some sound advice from members here had the thing pulling my lardy ass around with ease
A mates one from day one had a superb motor with no mods at all and I have measured every part including port heights ect and all are exactly the same so it make no sence how some need work and some do not
 
Try moving the powervalve arm to the top (do a search on here) this helped mine no end
Mine also liked a a 5 slide and a richer needle but in the end I went to the PWK as jets needles ect were easier to source
Walts powervalve springs are raved about and have cured many others problems, again its worth a search
Still want more then ship the top end to Walt and get it turned into a 144 or a 165, I can personally say his work is superb and even as a 144 the gains are well worth it
 
Spud1968,

The 09 WR 125 was the least consistant runner of the 125's since 98. Some ran great from new, most took a lot to make them work, and some like mine never ran well as a WR125. The 165 kit was born from the frustration this caused. By switching the 125 to a high compression 144 and cr ignition it became a sweet machine. But I am a height/weight/talent challenged rider. I ride mostly very steep, technical single track so I wanted more bottom/mid than the 144 offers. The 165 after a year plus of refinements is everything I could ever want in a dirt bike. My actual riding weight is close to 245#(I am one of those idiots that thinks they need to carry enough to rebuild the whole bike on the trail), the 165 makes me feel like a feather weight riding the flat lands. A year and a half ago I dyno'ed the cr 125/cr 144/cr 167 back to back with everything being the same(using the fmf fatty 125 pipe). The 167 made 50% more power and torque than the 125 to 7 K rpm. The 125 surpassed the old 167 at 11K rpm when it was done. The 165 kit with fmf fatty 200 pipe makes 50% more bottom/mid than the old 167 with the 125 pipe. Powerband curve with the 200 fatty mirrors the 167 with the fmf 125 pipe. If you run the 165 with the 125 pipe it revs quite a bit further than the 167 did simply due to a more efficient piston/ring and less weight.

What's the bottom line: If you like the hard hit of a tiddler then the 125/144 are the way to go. The less dynamic bottom/mid of those motors makes the hit even more pronounced. They both rev to the moon. The 144 is a nice compromise between the 125 and the 165. It has about 20% more bottom/mid than the 125 and still sings to 12.5K rpm. Your 09 WR125 maybe an issue going to 144 as the WR ignition exacerbates whatever it is that made many of those models a dog. I know the dog problem can be cured with the 165 but might need a switch to a cr ignition in 144 form. John has been down the same road as me with inspecting lots of parts to try and find out what the issue was. Actual upgrading cost to either the 144 or 165 is pretty close to the same. You will need a new pipe with either. Total difference between the two is probably $200 US total.

By all means also reset your float height as Dwight sudgests. You should be getting at least 15-20 miles per gallon. Good luck and I hope you get it running well. These bikes are simply brilliant when working well.
 
Wallybean, i do like the sound of the 165 kit, has there been any failures or reliabilty problems? Im sure what you claim power wise is true, im just an old sceptic and proof of such power comparing the 125 144 and your 165 is available? This is not me doubting your power claim its just if the engine power is strong bottom and mid revs with your kit then ill need source other parts in theq future like a new rear spring, larger fuel tank, but i need the engine to perform a little better before i start looking at these other parts.
 
Spud1968,

You bring up a good point and I plan on doing a series of Dyno runs with all the new stuff this winter and posting the results. I posted the results when I did it previously. Hopefully the dyno I use has the ability to give me the results in digital form now. This won't happen until winter though as it is a full day for me with each engine by the time I drive to the dyno and back. I will also be mounting up a trials tire for the tests as the 167 really wouldn't sit still with a knobby when it hit the pipe even tied down. I expect that problem to be even worse with the new 165. The 125 and 144 won't change much but the 165 will be much more.

I have only had a couple of failures in all the kits. Had an issue with too little piston clearance with a few kits which I fixed with only one serious problem. Had one of the older cylinders that was sent into me burning head o-rings. I had to get the top deck re-surfaced and it cured the problem. I just traded him out of the cylinder and head from that kit even though it was a provided cylinder. I have had some issues with compression being a bit high. My original gauge ended up being gunnybag and I am at a high elevation. I have invested in a better kit and adjusted for altitude. The kits have been in general bullet proof. My original 165 piston has over 110 hours on it and was still in spec although I installed a new piston kit when I swapped it onto my '12. John Kearney has many hard racing hours from the entire season on one piston kit. I think he might install a new ring in it for the fall season but then again maybe not. I think a lot of the longevity comes from the fact you don't need to wring its neck to make haste. This motor allows you to really ride in the meaty bottom/mid without giving up anything and still rips when you want it. I have one buddy who I ride with when I actually make it out. Installed a new kit in his 01 CR this spring early. He has many many many hours riding since and it just keeps going better and better, he is an A Vet rider. He rides at least 2-3 times a week. There are now 40+ kits in service so considering this all started last November the results have been pretty good with only minor growing pains to date. I don't expect anyone to absorb any of the cost of growing pains so I just replace anything that is an issue from that kind of thing.
 
Wallybean, thanks for being honest and the winter promise. I will buy a 165 kit and id like the exhaust to be supplied as well. If the chap, i forget his name is reading this he does the shipping i think, can you let him know ill remove the barrel and head and try and get it in the post in the next couple of days. I may be back to ask a few questions like have you received my parts etc....
 
Oh! I rode a KTM 200 yesterday for a few minutes....WB165 would stomp it from bottom end to mid range at least, I didn't get a chance to really open up the 200. The KTM was very linear, almost electric like through the RPMs, WB165 has great bottom end torque and mid range, it feels more lively than the KTM, the orange bike almost felt boring to ride if that makes sense?
 
Nice poopy

Update.......

Just took the spark plug out it was black and wet. Im going to check the main jvet size the bike has a mikuni carb is this standard? I spoke to a uk husky dealer about the amount of fuel it is using he said the bike can dump fuel out of the camber overfLow when riding over rough terrain the float bounces up in the chamber and can sometimes stick flooding the carby chamber. So im going to run all the carb breather pipes up into the air box including the crank case pipe too. If fuel is leaking out of the overflow it shouldnt run upwards so this will either,do nothing or the running will bw affected. Next thing mentioned was the carb slidea can stick but im not noticing this as yet. The spark plug is iridium and it is suggested i run a standard plug. Barrel, head, pv now on there way to kelly ........im sure ill be first inline to have mine done because us uk riders are always special......lol
 
292382_3957063256987_1102047306_n.jpg


Jimmy Lewis
5 hours ago via mobile



Husky 125 getting some top end love. Simple things.





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I have an FBF 135 on my CR and it hauls azz when the weather is right for the jetting....need to get a PWK for this bike!
 
Wallybean, i do like the sound of the 165 kit, has there been any failures or reliabilty problems? Im sure what you claim power wise is true, im just an old sceptic and proof of such power comparing the 125 144 and your 165 is available? This is not me doubting your power claim its just if the engine power is strong bottom and mid revs with your kit then ill need source other parts in theq future like a new rear spring, larger fuel tank, but i need the engine to perform a little better before i start looking at these other parts.


Like I posted before watch some of the videos I posted about the 165.I have done Wide open desert where the 165 will pull a 450 across the desert Not my fault the 165 made the 450 look bad and we were talking expert class.Then up in the trees over 8,000 feet still running fine.Then a gran prix motorcross race where the 165 did well again.Then a video of a Last Man Standing race with lots of endurocross in it.Once again the 165 pulled every hill and I finished every inch of that course.Tons of low end
Botton line the 165 has been just as tuff as when it was a 125 I have many races on it no problem
With over 30 kits out there and NO complaints you should not worrie.The only thing to worrie about is if I can keep up with the demand for FMF pipes to go with the kits
 
Like I posted before watch some of the videos I posted about the 165.I have done Wide open desert where the 165 will pull a 450 across the desert Not my fault the 165 made the 450 look bad and we were talking expert class.Then up in the trees over 8,000 feet still running fine.Then a gran prix motorcross race where the 165 did well again.Then a video of a Last Man Standing race with lots of endurocross in it.Once again the 165 pulled every hill and I finished every inch of that course.Tons of low end
Botton line the 165 has been just as tuff as when it was a 125 I have many races on it no problem
With over 30 kits out there and NO complaints you should not worrie.The only thing to worrie about is if I can keep up with the demand for FMF pipes to go with the kits

Have you ever thought about becoming a salesman....lol...a very good sales pitch that and i will hold you to your 450 claim not unless you want to back down?.......and the videos are where?

A bit more info/advice needed:

Im looking for a 2010 petrol tank do the 4bangErs fit i think they are 9.5 ltrs this should
be able to stretch to 2hrs, or what are you guys racing with?
 
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