• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1972 Husqvarna 250 WR and 1971 400 Cross barn finds! Help me bring these beauties back to life!

Source for manuals, parts books, and more courtesy of a Cafe Husky member:

http://www.3medesign.com/technical-data.html

For bearings and seals, go to a bearing supply house. You can choose the level of quality you want and may be less expensive. Many times the parts manual will call out the manufacture (SKF for example) and size.

Many of the sources you mentioned will have rubber parts. Here is another source to consider:

https://kawasakikt.tripod.com/vintageperformance.html

Source for flywheel pullers:

https://www.dssalesusa.net/store/c8/HUSQVARNA.html
 
Red Leader said:
Here is the shaft I got - whoopsee!
If y'all can confirm for me that this definitely won't work in either the 4-speed oval case nor this '72, I'm down for sending this to someone that can use it.
Click to expand...

That is the counter-shaft for the mag 6 speed motor 1974-1979.
 
Vinskord said:
Source for manuals, parts books, and more courtesy of a Cafe Husky member:

http://www.3medesign.com/technical-data.html

For bearings and seals, go to a bearing supply house. You can choose the level of quality you want and may be less expensive. Many times the parts manual will call out the manufacture (SKF for example) and size.

Many of the sources you mentioned will have rubber parts. Here is another source to consider:

https://kawasakikt.tripod.com/vintageperformance.html

Source for flywheel pullers:

https://www.dssalesusa.net/store/c8/HUSQVARNA.html
Click to expand...



Well, this is simply fantastic - THANK YOU! That early service manual is pure gold. Going through that, it shows disassembly, assembly, tips, things to remember and watch out for. Wow. For someone that has never rebuilt one of these, this is invaluable. Thank you so much.

I suppose the next step is to invest in a flywheel puller, a case splitter, and a case...joiner?

Yesterday I didn't get a chance to 'hang up' the bike, but I did find a bunch of extra straps. I'm thinking I can make some wood spacers and use those to take up most of the tolerance of the cylinder head, so that if this thing lets go, it only has to drop 5mm or so.

As soon as I have the setup, I'll throw some pictures up. While I'm at it, I think I might pull the head off of the 400 Cross and throw some penetrating fluid on top of the piston, and also confirm where it is at. If it is at BTC or TDC it may make things a bit more challenging, but challenging is fun, right?
 
Don @ Vintage Viking
619 415 9176
Great Guy with LOTS of INFO!!!

If you must part with the shaft, Let me Know. I still have a few motors to build! Chris
 
Sorry about the lack of updates - between watching the kids (wife had a trip) and work I haven't really gotten a chance to put our special 'cylinder head removal plan' into action.

I did have some 'garage time' today, but instead of Huskies, I got to spend some good quality time w/ the kiddos working on this:

IMG_7093.jpg

Just got the throttle kit in the mail and actually got it installed and attached AND working, amazingly. I didn't think it would be that easy! This thing is a mess...multiple frame cracks, broken off footpegs, no brakes, bent forks, flat tires (both), and before the throttle, I had to jam my hand down on top of the carb to actuate the butterfly valve to get it going and hope to not get shocked by the open sparkplug attachment point. But it runs and I get to throw a kid on it and take them on a wild ride down the street! Going to try to borrow a welder from work this week, and fix the cracks, weld on some footpegs that we got from an old CB750, straighten the forks, and start maybe thinking about a rear paddle brake - maybe:D

And I'll do all this AFTER we have a Husky hanging from the garage rafters:thumbsup:
 
DeathFromAbove said:
Don @ Vintage Viking
619 415 9176
Great Guy with LOTS of INFO!!!

If you must part with the shaft, Let me Know. I still have a few motors to build! Chris
Click to expand...



If I cannot use it for a 71, 72, or 73 Husky, you'll probably use it way quicker than me!

PM an address and it's all yours.
 
Red Leader said:
Sorry about the lack of updates - between watching the kids (wife had a trip) and work I haven't really gotten a chance to put our special 'cylinder head removal plan' into action.

I did have some 'garage time' today, but instead of Huskies, I got to spend some good quality time w/ the kiddos working on this:

View attachment 106364

Just got the throttle kit in the mail and actually got it installed and attached AND working, amazingly. I didn't think it would be that easy! This thing is a mess...multiple frame cracks, broken off footpegs, no brakes, bent forks, flat tires (both), and before the throttle, I had to jam my hand down on top of the carb to actuate the butterfly valve to get it going and hope to not get shocked by the open sparkplug attachment point. But it runs and I get to throw a kid on it and take them on a wild ride down the street! Going to try to borrow a welder from work this week, and fix the cracks, weld on some footpegs that we got from an old CB750, straighten the forks, and start maybe thinking about a rear paddle brake - maybe:D

And I'll do all this AFTER we have a Husky hanging from the garage rafters:thumbsup:
Click to expand...


Brakes, we don't need no stinkin brakes.
 
Okay, here is the update for tonight -

Bike is hanging from the rafters. Have a strap through the cylinder w/ the stud nuts on and a wood spacer to take up the slack. If/when it lets go, its only going to need about 1/4" or even less. This way there is less shock and hopefully the bike stays balanced. Just to be sure, I put two more independent straps on it to hold it up in case something goofy happens and it wants to fall.

IMG_7112.jpg

I took a heat gun to the gasket area and rapped on it a bit w/ my rubber mallet. So far, zero movement at all, but, we are early in the war and still fighting from the trenches.

IMG_7115.jpg

IMG_7113.jpg



While up on the ladder I just had to get a shot of that 400 Cross. There's no mistaking that nice, original stance. She's ugly, but oh so beautiful. Most beautiful motorcycle ever made IMO.

IMG_7117.jpg
 
What's the latest?

Another thought - instead of using a rubber mallet on the fins, use a flat piece of aluminum or brass (just thin enough to fit between the fins) to strike the core of the cylinder - this would transmit greater direct force on the barrel.

Let us know - even if it's just touching base. We all have been there.
 
Vinskord said:
What's the latest?

Another thought - instead of using a rubber mallet on the fins, use a flat piece of aluminum or brass (just thin enough to fit between the fins) to strike the core of the cylinder - this would transmit greater direct force on the barrel.

Let us know - even if it's just touching base. We all have been there.
Click to expand...


Hey there! Its been a busy couple of weeks. The kiddo was showing a lot of interest in the minibike so I snagged the welder from work and we went to town on that sucker. Repaired several cracks, welded up some foot pegs and mounts from a CB750 and will do another set for the front for 2 riders. Will need to also fab up a rear paddle brake. Then last weekend had more kiddo stuff and of course Mother's Day so garage plans are out:D

All this time, the 250 WR has been hanging off the rafters, giving me the middle finger and laughing at my so-far pitiful attempts to break the cylinder free. I checked it every couple of days since I hung it up, to see if there has been any progress. No way Jose! No even with heat! So I think I'm going to bump up to ATF/acetone mix as some have suggested, then get a manual extraction technique for around the bolt studs, just to see what crud is in there. I'm thinking the engine is going to have to come out. My first steps will be ATF/acetone, then scrape around down in there, w/ some teeny tiny non-existent tool I don't have, then maybe blow out w/ some nitrogen, and see if we can get any crud flying.

The suggestion about a tool to fit in-between the fins is a great one!

What do y'all think about trying to remove the studs so that knocking around the cylinder head will actually get us somewhere? Thoughts? Is that a no-no to try and rip those out if they are in there pretty good?
 
Okay! Y'all inspired me to go back out there and give it another go.

WE HAVE MAJOR PROGRESS!!!

I decided to roll the bike out in front of the garage to 1) give myself a little more room and 2) just to look at it. Yes, I know its a roach, but it is beautiful!!!

IMG_7408.jpg


I kept thinking about another method I had employed early on, which was to take a wooded wedge, and place it between the top of the engine cases and the bottom of the intake, since there is a natural angle there. Because the clutch lever was in the way before, I never really good any good whacks with it, although I thought the theory was sound.

Also, you guys had the idea to use the bike itself as a way to act against the cylinder. Well, I decided to combine both techniques. I moved the clutch arm out of the way, cleaned the cases, used the wedge, and then wrapped the intake barrel with a ratchet strap.

IMG_7410.jpg

IMG_7411 (1).jpg




And...we have separation!


IMG_7413.jpg


I think with a few more whacks with the rubber mallet, and maybe a ratchet strap around the front exhaust port again, we'll be free! Stay tuned. And thank you for all the awesome suggestions!
 
Took at look at the bike today, gave it a few tugs, it's still not wanting to let go, holding on for dear life. But its gonna come off! I'll let y'all know when we finally git 'r done!
 
I had this problem with my 450cr. The gap between the steel studs & alloy barrel fills with corrosion, dust and dirt over the years. Vinegar or Diet Coke will gently dissolve enough of the gunk to allow you to double nut the studs to remove them. A proper stud extractor is even better. When you rebuild the engine grease the studs & slip silicone washers tightly over them before fitting the head, these will keep the dirt & moisture out. You could also use titanium studs to prevent corrosion, I think HVA might have some.
Good luck
 
Red Leader Is Not able to get into the Cafe Husky forum. He sent me a letter and has not been able to access the site. I sent his request to the Admin. No Reply as of this post.
 
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