• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1972 WR250 the beginning

You may want to review my post on removing stuck sprockets, I noticed you commented on it in 2018.
I tried to attach the link to this 2018 post but the system wants to embed it. I tried a few times but gave up. You'll have to find it yourself.

Looks like your broken sprocket may be a defect as described in the above mentioned post.

Heres a modification to the Husky sprocket puller that I found helpful. The holes are .400" wide and .200" deep. Allows the sprocket teeth a place to go so the puller gets a bigger bite on the sprocket hub. Drill a 3/8" (10mm) dia hole in each puller leg for the sprocket teeth. About .200" (5mm) deep.
20250409_185425_001 15%.jpg

Also, your sprocket looks like its has a large hub that doesn't allow the puller to slide on all the way.
You'll have to make the opening larger on the puller legs so they slide on all the way.
The puller pictured hasn't been modified for this because the sprocket is already broken.
20250409_190947_001 15%.jpg
 
Last edited:
Upping my game / loosing patience... applying pressure on the piston! Removed PO "chain slider" and chain guide mounts. Ordered a stud remover, so hopefully we can get the cylinder loose : )
 

Attachments

  • Move_Piston.jpeg
    Move_Piston.jpeg
    110.1 KB · Views: 6
  • swingarm.jpeg
    swingarm.jpeg
    91.9 KB · Views: 6
Or you can drill and tap the Sprocket and use a bar across the end of the shaft?
As was mentioned I have torque on one and heated and left overnight and found it on the floor in the morning.
 

Attachments

  • Frozen_Sprocketa.jpg
    Frozen_Sprocketa.jpg
    107.2 KB · Views: 2
DeathFromAbove said:
Or you can drill and tap the Sprocket and use a bar across the end of the shaft?
As was mentioned I have torque on one and heated and left overnight and found it on the floor in the morning.
Click to expand...
IDK but isn't the sprocket heat treated making it hard to drill? I broke a sprocket once and ended up welding two bolts to it, then used the puller while applying oxy/acetylene heat. Popped right off. Oh yeah, I also cut off all excess sprocket material to reduce the mass so it would heat faster.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top