• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1977 360 auto

DeathFromAbove said:
Checking the main shaft assembly closely I found the circlip is damaged and the spring retainer is extremely tight on the shaft. I also found some trouble with the engagement gear and teeth on the main shaft. Looks like someone welded the ends of the engagement teeth and the gear. I cleaned them up on the lathe and filed the sliding surfaces the best I could. I will probably have a problem with them so if anyone has decent replacements I am interested. I guess this is what... auto... warned me about!
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DeathFromAbove said:
After repair.
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Hi, I am afraid that your gear engagement will be very unlikely to work, George at Uptite will do the job, sourcing those new parts is extremely difficult!
Steve good mourning.
If you are asking if I can refurbish the Mainshaft that goes thru the Main drum and the gear that engages on to it. Yes I do fix them.
Just press the shaft out and send them.
Later George
Up-Tite Husqvarna/Beta
111 West Dyer Road #B
Santa Ana , California. 92707
714 540-2920
 
I had Forest Stahl repair three sets of the main shafts and 1st gears several years ago. I installed two and they are all still working great. You may also want to change that 1st gear with the one the has the needle bearing pressed in the bore of the bearing. I may have an extra set still available (can't remember for sure at this moment). PM if you want.

Marty
 
Thanks Marty I'll try him on Monday as I have two sets of these shaft and gear one of them is pretty roach but it does have the bearing in the back of the the gear I'll see what he says about them whether he can fix them or what if he can't then I'll be looking for shaft and and a gear so you may be my next call. Chris
 
Called George at Up-Tite, and he's too busy right now. Says he moved and has some 40 motors to build. Told him I would call back in late Feb. I'll try to run what I have and if I screw it up at least there is Feb. Seems Forrest Stal is still sick, he was when I talked to him last year. Hoping and Praying for him! Thanks for the info guys. Chris
 
Found both of the fork drain holes were stripped. Installed 3/8-16 x 6-1.0 thread serts, and milled them flat.
 

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The new main shaft has a bigger gear than the old one. So it wouldn't fit to the kick gear idler. I found that the rotted trans had the same big gear so I salvaged the kick gear and idler gear and they fit with the new shaft. I put the new (to me ) main shaft in the drum. Then assembled the trans by lifting the disengagement lever shaft. I put the main clutch drum on the crankshaft with the bearings and then the woodruff key, adding the clutch assembly and the spring cover by Gritzner on fleabay. It won't fit without some extra bending so in my BV&H it went for some massaging to make it fit without touching the springs. Then I made the holding tool for the clutch assembly and followed the instructions I got with the retainer for final assembly. New gasket and clean fasteners and it is together! The retainer misses the cover by about 3/16" so no milling the cover. I have some super magnets ordered and will put those on the cover when I change the oil after the first run as I'll need to re-torque the crank and fly wheel nut then.
 

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Yes OBD, awesome! Still the end is not near, chain and sprockets, cables, controls, and on and on! But after all the crap with the original and replacement motors !!:cheers: Does anyone know where to get a billet oil cap ??
 
Does anyone know why the size difference in the main shaft gear? Was it a year change, or to fix a part that was breaking a lot? I would think that more teeth on the gears make a more positive control and a less vague feel. Why were both the different gears on the same year motor, knowing that these early auto motors were kind of interchangeable. What's the diff and why? I don't have a disengagement cable yet, but the lever feels tight and I did not check the engagement gear 1st to the secondary shaft gear. Looks like I should take it apart to make sure. Sheesh! Sitting here drinking beer and second guessing my self.
 
DeathFromAbove said:
Does anyone know why the size difference in the main shaft gear? Was it a year change, or to fix a part that was breaking a lot? I would think that more teeth on the gears make a more positive control and a less vague feel. Why were both the different gears on the same year motor, knowing that these early auto motors were kind of interchangeable. What's the diff and why? I don't have a disengagement cable yet, but the lever feels tight and I did not check the engagement gear 1st to the secondary shaft gear. Looks like I should take it apart to make sure. Sheesh! Sitting here drinking beer and second guessing my self.
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Chris,
Your OK, Husky used the same 1st gear ratio on the 360, 390 and 420 autos. They changed the mainshaft/gear late at the end of the 360auto and the beginning of the 390amx. I have also seen the 360 autos with the two different mainshaft/gear. Double check the gear on the kick lever shaft matches the idler gear. If you need a different kick shaft gear let me know and I will send you one.

Marty
 
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