• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1983 Husky 430WR Resto NETRA Hare Scrambles

MikeDi, if you're still looking for an exhaust stateside, you might want to give HVA guru Marty Strouse (AHRMA member, previous Husqvarna dealer and owner of Paradise Cycle-Kart in PA). He just might be able to help you find what you're looking for.

In Jan 2013, he rebuilt my 83 Husqvarna motor -- very pleased with his work and HVA expertise. Here's a contact info link: http://www.yellowbot.com/paradise-cycle-kart-reynoldsville-pa.html

Sidebar: I have an old Dirt Bike magazine test article on this bike, and it stated that this was the best big bore enduro of '83 -- aka, the ultimate "Lazy Man's" bike. True talk, for sure. After the motor was done, I had my Ohlins rebuilt by Drew Smith, installed a proper set of Racetech fork springs, changed out my stock KS for the 84 & up KS lever, went one tooth down on the CS sprocket (from 12 to 11), and finally, put on some very nice aftermarket footpegs. What a difference properly setup bike makes. This bike will go up & around & through anything that's thrown at it...very smooth,tractable with stable and predictable handling. Actually like my aircooled WR430's (82 & 83) more than the four LC 400WR's that I previously owned. Wish you the best on your 430 resto.
 
Thanks for the information, I appreciate any advice at this early stage of the build.


MikeDi, if you're still looking for an exhaust stateside, you might want to give HVA guru Marty Strouse (AHRMA member, previous Husqvarna dealer and owner of Paradise Cycle-Kart in PA). He just might be able to help you find what you're looking for.

In Jan 2013, he rebuilt my 83 Husqvarna motor -- very pleased with his work and HVA expertise. Here's a contact info link: http://www.yellowbot.com/paradise-cycle-kart-reynoldsville-pa.html

Sidebar: I have an old Dirt Bike magazine test article on this bike, and it stated that this was the best big bore enduro of '83 -- aka, the ultimate "Lazy Man's" bike. True talk, for sure. After the motor was done, I had my Ohlins rebuilt by Drew Smith, installed a proper set of Racetech fork springs, changed out my stock KS for the 84 & up KS lever, went one tooth down on the CS sprocket (from 12 to 11), and finally, put on some very nice aftermarket footpegs. What a difference properly setup bike makes. This bike will go up & around & through anything that's thrown at it...very smooth,tractable with stable and predictable handling. Actually like my aircooled WR430's (82 & 83) more than the four LC 400WR's that I previously owned. Wish you the best on your 430 resto.
 
Hey Guys,
When installing the kick start return spring, do you have to wind any tension into the spring or just assemble as is. I took it apart to replace the O ring and felt it snap back.
 
Separate topic, but should the nut that holds primary crank gear on be threadlocked? And does that nut only take 40Nm of torque? When we pulled the primary gear with a puller, it shot off the shaft like it had 200bps of torque on it.
 
It is a right hand thread so the normal engine rotation will keep it from backing off. I have never found any anti lock compound taking a primary gear off.

When a taper lock has line to line contact, it takes very little torque to seat it, but so much more to release it when removing. You may have noticed there are no key slots in the gear or crankshaft end. Because keys are not needed for a proper taper fit. They were used quite a bit for counter shaft sprockets on some older Euro bikes.
 
Separate topic, but should the nut that holds primary crank gear on be threadlocked? And does that nut only take 40Nm of torque? When we pulled the primary gear with a puller, it shot off the shaft like it had 200bps of torque on it.
do not over torque it. you wont get it off. husqvarna engineers arent stupid, theres a reason it has that torque spec.
 
I modified a pitman arm remover (2 arm) with an exhaust cutoff wheel to fit under the primary gear then use an air impact to break the taper. You can also use a 3 jar puller but be careful as some are thin enough to break
 
15780719_10211927418240257_6152607261556519704_n.jpg
 
scuff off where the front engine mounts touch frame (4 holes) to ensure good ground. same where coil mounts.....swingarm to frame (inside) helps too
 
Some have added a secondary ground wire between engine and frame as a backup. If you intend to run a single wire kill switch you will need to add a ground between the handlebar and frame. Otherwise use a 2 wire kill switch as one lead goes to the frame. Essential if you have rubber mounted bar clamps.
 
Back
Top