• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1986 WR400 restoration

Apologies I didnt make it clear, Andy at HVA factory has had some carb/Inlet flange rubbers re-manufactured to the original HVA design at around a £100 ea. The two bolt universal is available in the UK from Allens and Sudco and IRC the website that has all the dating info (sorry cant remember which site, hopefully someone who knows will give the right website) in the US.
 
Rhodeislander said:
So, a husky dealer for the rubber piece. The billet section is aftermarket? What do I say the rubber piece is for? Is it a stock piece for another year? I guess I'm confused that the original is one piece, the two sections here are a mix of aftermarket, and something stock? I did see the rubber section alone on a website, but there were a dozen different sizes and bolt patterns? Thanks guy, just want to get the right thing.
Bud
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Not necessarily a Husky dealer as it is a standard Mikuni spigot to reed case adapter. You would need to get the billet piece to get the bolt spread and buy the adapter to fit that and your carb
 
N
husqyman said:
Apologies I didnt make it clear, Andy at HVA factory has had some carb/Inlet flange rubbers re-manufactured to the original HVA design at around a £100 ea. The two bolt universal is available in the UK from Allens and Sudco and IRC the website that has all the dating info (sorry cant remember which site, hopefully someone who knows will give the right website) in the US.
Click to expand...
No problem, I'm a little slow sometimes...
 
Ok,
the new billet intake ordered. Motor back together. Getting better.
I have a new issue, a small crack in the rim near the edge. Is this something I can have welded? Any luck with this type of repair?
Bud
 
Rhodeislander said:
Ok,
the new billet intake ordered. Motor back together. Getting better.
I have a new issue, a small crack in the rim near the edge. Is this something I can have welded? Any luck with this type of repair?
Bud
Click to expand...

The "crack" you see is likely a separation of the unwelded portion of the rim seal. If the crack is perfectly straight above a shallow dent in the rim, then structurally no need to repair
 
Warwick-20120427-00207.jpg


Not big, but not sure what to do.
 
I was trying to get a set of forks for the 83 430WR I am trying to put together. There is a guy somewhat local to me that may have a L/C 250 engine, I do know he has parts for an 87 430WR. I will be listing his stuff in my eBay store soon when I get the chance to pick the stuff up. I have an "extra" 250WR lower end that can be converted to L/C very easily seeing I am putting an L/C crankshaft into it
 
jimspac said:
I was trying to get a set of forks for the 83 430WR I am trying to put together. There is a guy somewhat local to me that may have a L/C 250 engine, I do know he has parts for an 87 430WR. I will be listing his stuff in my eBay store soon when I get the chance to pick the stuff up. I have an "extra" 250WR lower end that can be converted to L/C very easily seeing I am putting an L/C crankshaft into it
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I'm correct that the 250 lower is the same as the400 right?
Oh, and what is l/c?
 
Rhodeislander said:
I'm correct that the 250 lower is the same as the400 right?
Oh, and what is l/c?
Click to expand...
Yes the 250 lower end bolts right in as the cases are the same outside profiles from 82 through 87. I am using a set of centercases from an 84 250CR to replace centercases in an 82 430WR engine I am building. I will contact my friend and see if he has or know where he can get an L/C 250 topend. I know he parted out an 86 250XC so he might still have the topend. Water Cooled is not appropriate as in these engines as you should only use premix coolant mixed with deionized water, not tap water
 
jimspac said:
The "crack" you see is likely a separation of the unwelded portion of the rim seal. If the crack is perfectly straight above a shallow dent in the rim, then structurally no need to repair
Click to expand...
Now that you have posted a pic of the rim, I see the seam did not separate. You can have that welded and should or replace it. You would have to paint the rim if you were concerned about appearance. The seam is actually unaffected
 
Rhodeislander said:
Warwick-20120427-00207.jpg


Not big, but not sure what to do.
Click to expand...


I had a crack, damaged rims on my 450 rims.. I went to woodys wheel works in colorado, the wheels could be repaired but the time, labor, $$ etc.. was weighed against the cost of new rims. I am keeping and riding the bike so I went with 'new' Akront - Morad rims I ordered from UK. The rims are blanks & needed to be sent to Buchanans in California to get drilled for the offset etc .. just food for thought, lots of 'issues'..I can post the links if needed
 
M
jimspac said:
Now that you have posted a pic of the rim, I see the seam did not separate. You can have that welded and should or replace it. You would have to paint the rim if you were concerned about appearance. The seam is actually unaffected
Click to expand...
My old 430 had a crack similar to that, all I did was drill a small hole at the end of the crack to limit its chances of spreading & watched it for 2 years with the end result being 2mm growth in that time after lots of hard rocky riding.
Just make sure the spokes are tight.
 
speedyauto said:
M
My old 430 had a crack similar to that, all I did was drill a small hole at the end of the crack to limit its chances of spreading & watched it for 2 years with the end result being 2mm growth in that time after lots of hard rocky riding.
Just make sure the spokes are tight.
Click to expand...
Hi,
That's an issue also. Some spokes are hand tight. I was going to drop off at my local shop to have them done right, this not something I can do my self correct?
 
Ive found with wheels that you can tighten everything up in the spokes department just enough so it doesn't rub on anything then ride real fast down a long road and they can straighten them selves out and you just tighten the loose ones up. ive done it on a couple of bikes that have had major spoke loosening and out of shape rims and it works..
 
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