• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1988 TE 510 Husqvarna project4 stroke

Yes the KLR is very slow, but you may love it, you won't know until you ride it. I would think the Husky would be worth double what the KLR is worth, at least here in Australia it would be.
 
ajcmbrown said:
Yes the KLR is very slow, but you may love it, you won't know until you ride it. I would think the Husky would be worth double what the KLR is worth, at least here in Australia it would be.
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I just need something street legal, if only that guys klr was a 610 lol.
this one super enthusiast husky guy wants to buy it for 2100$. He plans on completely restoring the entire bike. Like completely, everything removed from frame, all paint stripped, he might actually do it cause the engine is apparently in excellent running condition.
I kinda just want it to go to someone who will restore it to the extent where it looks brand new and not used. Ill eventually get another husky and fix it up because this was a fun project to do.

he said he has tons of huskies. hes in MD
 
okay so it looks like I have another problem. maybe a major one. so as I was doing a routine run to keep the fuel flowing and I rode it around for 3 minutes. I brought it to decent speeds and on the second gear cruising back I hear the engine make a weird crackling noise. Then it started to slow down (the running of the engine) it bogged down until it finally shut off.
( I never bring it to its max RPMS. ITs also kept low and slow, only rarely do I ever hit anywhere near max rpm)

hmmm now what could this be. Could this crackling just be my mind? maybe it was the ignition coil? Maybe it was the timing chain...? Maybe the valve springs? I'm just gonna remove the engine and inspect for myself. The guy from md is interested but if I sell it to him I gotta sell it for 1600$ instead of 2100. (dude that's not bad though). So being curious ill just peek inside the valve area and the clutch area and see whats happenin. It shifts fine and it has very high compression, sounds normal when in neutral and clutches well.


EDIT:
Actually, I do think it's the coil. ill start it up again and try and determine. do aftermarket coils work if you can modify them and correctly wire them?
I was thinking of using a coil from a ktm since huskies and ktm have very similar engines and flywheel sizes. Correct me if I am wrong

clattering noise is just me pushing the clutch down and the engine being shut off at a high speed. so stator is to blame. Thank Christ it isn't anything else. I suppose rewrapping the stator is in order here? thing is full of unknown problems lol.
 
lol, this is like riding a roller coaster..could be something simple...or not..
all brands take patience...
(cue axl) just a lil paaatieeeeence...
 
justintendo said:
lol, this is like riding a roller coaster..could be something simple...or not..

all brands take patience...

(cue axl) just a lil paaatieeeeence...
Click to expand...



ik but I'm like dead broke and I gotta have some transportation for college. Believe me selling this thing is gonna break my heart. I got patience but college man.... Car insurance is expensive lol. I'm sure ill sell it to someone who will take better care and know how to work on it. Yeah it is has been a roller coaster. When I have a steady income and more time ill pick up another husky (or the same one...) and do a better job
 
well once again, I did not go through with selling it. I fixed it at no cost.so now it runs alrighty. Needed cleaning is all, but a new problem sprung up and hit me in drubles, The kickstart spring broke. Know where I can get one or any after market that may work? thanks

I know I am silly, I flood this thread with "Omg this bike is broke" and "omg I can get a fortune for this thing"
and last but not least, "omg street legal!" I apologize but everything I am doing is either a guess or lightly researched upon because it's such a hard bike to find info on.
I wonder when i'm finally gonna pull the plug on and sell the bike.... probably never.... lololol
 
is anything missing from here?

lbHU5tq.jpg


I've decided to go ahead and restore this much more, i'm probably gonna use it for the street/motocross, I know I cant make up my mine but selling this is pointless.
ill have a small job over the summer and ill be microfunding this bike.

It looks like there is a lot missing here. Please look at my post above.
Also I don't have the original light/kill switch, do you know any alternatives or aftermarkets? I found a site that sells the lights rather cheap, 150$ for both.
I feel like there is a light regulator behind it, and don't worry this is before I had done any work to the bike, it's just an old photo but electronics looks the same
 
That little orange (NOT RED) orangish looking wire is cut, is there a regulator that goes there for the power? I could be wrong but at the same time they told me the bike can somehow, someway be made for the road. I'm sure I could manage something. But it's fun either way, I just wanna get everything going all well.

I know yellow is lights, the other yellow wire is hiding behind the CDI.
 
One of the yellow wires goes to the regulator you do not have. You can find the wiring diagram for the Euro models that are street legal in Europe. That will get you close.

Also, go to Halls website and download the parts catalog for your machine. That will help you determine what is missing and what you will need. Most of the chassis wiring is common to the 2 strokes so lights and regulators are universal within Husqvarna.

With 2 yellow wires you must have the SEM ignition. It puts out 140 watts of lighting current when it works so enjoy it while it lasts.
 
Yeah I have the SEM ignition. It works rather well, ill get a regulator. Found on for only 20$ on ebay. Do you know of any killswitches or light switches? I still cant find a wiring diagram for this motorcycle. As for speedo I can always use a smartphone. The existing killswitch is a hunk of junk from china. Ill do some research. Thanks!
 
all the kill does is ground a wire..some kill switches are single wire and some are 2 wire. just wire up a universal kill switch...
 
justintendo said:
all the kill does is ground a wire..some kill switches are single wire and some are 2 wire. just wire up a universal kill switch...
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well when I say killswitch, I mean the light switch with the kill button or whatever. aren't the both included? if not my mistake. but idk which light switch to get and both my kill wires are not working. I do what you said and connect to the switch but the bike still runs loud and proud.
 
i suppose you could find a combo unit that does both included in one housing..but in your wiring the kill is just one wire..and when its grounded it kills spark.
pretty sure a street legal machine has its headlight on all the time, the only switch is for high/low beam. all actual streetbikes are that way. even if you install a keyed ignition, i would still have a stand alone kill button on the bars.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ34322?utm_source=none&utm_term=[74945928010:product_type_l1==vehicles%20&%20parts&%20product_type_l2==land%20vehicles&%20product_type_l3==mot&cid=Google SEARCH NON-BRAND PLA - Shopping Campaign&adpos=1o3&creative=42616780690&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CjwKEAjwxoG5BRCC7ezlzNmR8HUSJAAre36jBKoS6UqHo1wKIbJRLkou2Ax7KktcgQqkgpYhCgzlgRoCCxDw_wcB

this site has other switches for lights and such..
 
I know about the kill switch grounding, I used to work on outboards ranging from 1950-2010. kill switches were exactly as you say they were, however mine seem to not work. Ill order another or try to figure out why neither work. Connecting the kill wires do not shut the engine off either. Ill check for cracked or broken wires tomorrow. And thanks for the switches. I know I sound like I'm being a hard time and I apologize but I really feel like getting this thing up and road ready.
 
If you have rubber mount handlebars you need a 2 wire kill button. If you actually want to shut the engine down you need to run a ground back to the frame.
 
jimspac said:
If you have rubber mount handlebars you need a 2 wire kill button. If you actually want to shut the engine down you need to run a ground back to the frame.
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lmao ill figure it out. I guess no street legal for now, theft is a big issue, but damn this thing is fun as a motocross bike! ill figure out the lights, ill order a regulator soon, I tried grounding the wire to where it was originally wired and hooked up the other wire to the black wire. It still doesn't work. It's a really cheap Chinese killswitch so maybe it broke... idk... Ill figure it out. I really appreciate everyones help for making this bike as cool as I can get it to be! :D


and yes, I have the SEM CDI unit!
 
jimspac said:
If you have rubber mount handlebars you need a 2 wire kill button. If you actually want to shut the engine down you need to run a ground back to the frame.
Click to expand...
his should be the straight bar mounts that are not rubber damped...but you make a good point, the 2 wire kills are probably more reliable. i still run the old magura style, lol..
 
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