2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

[9880sts]

I am in Queensland. Our bikes have only one airbox according to the parts pdf (TC or TE), but come with an Akropovic slip-on muffler supplied, so similar to your mods.
I would get your ECU maps updated first by a dealer, the map change made mine go hard.
The other things helped with stalling, throttle crispness & hanging idle that I had with my bike.

I really have no idea if these things will help a 2013 model, there are some ecu/wiring differences.

If you do decide to make ANY changes, mark/measure the things you change so they can be returned to standard if it makes it worse. This is important.

On my own bike, there was no adverse affect from removing the FBW 2nd throttle plate at all, but I have kept it with my other parts for later, just in case.

I just removed the FBW one, but not without testing and idling it, more like try to get it to stall. And it did with no problems. Then i removed the Flap and started up again. Now the bike is a bit snappier and as u said, once the Manual flap opens, the FBW one sometimes didnt open quick enough, shaft doesnt turn . Thats when the bike stalls.

So flap is gone... Saturday ill go riding and check it.

But the other thing with Idle etc... i don't really have issues with idle and or idling up.


So i am not going to touch the other parts for now.

One thing thou i got. When i stall the bike with Compression and i hit the Start button right away, it won't start. i have to crank for ages and if i turn the throttle just a tiny bit, it just spits and does nothing. I have to push the STOP button once and hit start and it will do it.

What can i do to get that under Control ??

Cheers.

 

[9880sts]

Disclaimer -

The following worked for my bike.
I am a mechanic, but I'm not a dealer, nor am I Husky trained.

I've gone from 5-10 flameouts per days ride to just ONE in the last 2 rides still with a factory ecu!

About my bike -

- 2011 TE449 bought new 08/2012.
- Supplied Akro slip-on & jumper plug fitted from new at the dealer.
- Everything else standard until dealer updated map to the AKRO racing exhaust map.

- Rode (rather than towed) my bike home from the dealer to put some easy Km's on it,
removed the huge number plate holder & mirrors & when to the local marked trail to run it in.
(The track has several big hills & some fast open trails.)

- The bike stalled several times & the idle stayed high a couple of times.
- Took the bike home & adjusted the idle screw, still ran the same.
- Took it to the (BMW) dealer, they 'made some adjustments' & said it was fine. (It still played up the same)
- I started to try things myself & make adjustments. Some for the better, some for the worse, over about 6 months.
- I tried all the 'resets', idle screw set at the magic no. of turns etc, no change.

- Just prior to the 12 month warranty expiring, I took it to another local dealer (Berg & Husky) for them to check it out & left it there for a couple of weeks.
I was told they reset the TPS adjustment, reflashed the ECU, swapped ECUs with another bike (which is still in it as the VIN no. on the sticker doesn't match my frame now) Replaced the spark plug, checked the valve clearances, cleaned the earth & terminals etc.

- It ran well for half of the first ride until I stalled it on compression & then had the 'hard to crank over' thing they do, lost the data from the trip meter & clock.
From then on, it returned to flame-outs & erratic idle.
- I replaced the battery with a Lithium one with 90 more cranking amps & the dash now keeps it's memory.
- Went through resets & idle settings again & again, no change.

- I had also noticed if the throttle was just cracked off idle, the revs increased, but it sounded laboured (fuelling not correct)
- I had also put a fair bit of thought into why it flames-out sometimes & not others.
I believe the Fly-By-Wire 2nd throttle doesn't open quick enough at times when you crack the manual throttle, so the ecu sees the throttle open, dumps in the fuel, the FBW plate is still partially closed so not enough air arrives & cough, flameout.

What can I do about the FBW throttle?

- My original plan was to get the ECU for a TC449 as it doesn't have the second throttle & modify the harness to suit - N.G., too hard.

- You can't remove the FBW throttle set-up. as the ECU 'looks' for the motor & 2nd TPS.
So I stripped the air-cleaner out of the bike & removed the FBW throttle plate & screws from the shaft.
As far as the ECU knows, it is still running the show, all it is doing is turning a shaft & making sure it is where it told it to be via the TPS
I still have control of the cable throttle, and the ecu sees the 1st TPS signals as normal. All good.

View attachment 39047

View attachment 39048

What about the hanging idle?

- Obviously the ecu is not capable of making any sort of decisions about idling!

I stripped the throttle cable cover off the throttle body, removed the cable cam from the shaft & removed the arm from the manual throttle section. (This is the arm that the FBW throttle lift & lowers to control idle) Now the ECU can turn the shaft all it wants & not idle the motor high & spit me off into the trees every second time I ride it I set the idle speed off the brass idle screw exactly how the TC is done, simple

I have left the brass spacer behind the cable cam & made a plastic guide for the throttle spring to run on (As the arm has a 'cup' for the spring built onto it)
I also took a measurement of the factory gap for the set screw(yellow paint in picture) in case I fell the need to refit it later.

View attachment 39049

And the dead spot off idle?

I decided to play with the TPS adjustment after finding other Keihin bikes are very picky about the idle output voltages (Most 0.45 -0.6)
It is pretty difficult to get at the pins on the TE449 to actually measure the voltage, so I decided to crack the TPS screw & move it just a bees-whisker in the direction of acceleration of the throttle shaft.
As I moved it slightly, the idle smoothed out & now transitions smoothly to cracked throttle.

Over-all, I'm stoked at the changes.

No more driving over the 'bars into that creek bank or log you just tried to pop the front wheel over when it flames out.
No more spearing off the outside of a corner after you expect 450cc engine-braking &
get 125 2-stroke engine braking instead.

And, I haven't bought an aftermarket ecu & had to tune it, fiddle with it and deal with extra wiring in a crowded frame. I ride all sorts of terrain, mud, beach, rain, creeks, dust, I didn't want non-factory wiring & plugs in that.

Hope this helps someone else, as I've mentioned at the start, it worked for my 2011 model.
It may not do anything for someone elses bike.

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Where can i find the TC Idle adjustment procedure ??? or any pictures of it. I got no info what so ever?
The plastic guide you where talking about, could u upload a pic of it ?

thanks

 

[Dangermouse449]

One thing thou i got. When i stall the bike with Compression and i hit the Start button right away, it won't start. i have to crank for ages and if i turn the throttle just a tiny bit, it just spits and does nothing. I have to push the STOP button once and hit start and it will do it.

What can i do to get that under Control ??

Cheers.[/quote]


Mine does the same thing too from time to time, but always has.
It has always needed throttle after a stall (not normal for an EFI system) but does start up.
My last ride I stalled the bike myself - as in NOT a flameout - & still had to crank it with some throttle to make it fire, so no change there.


The restarting has been much better since fitting the Lithium battery, it cranks over much quick & is easier to start (Also saves 1.5 kg of weight too).

 

[Dangermouse449]

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Where can i find the TC Idle adjustment procedure ??? or any pictures of it. I got no info what so ever?
The plastic guide you where talking about, could u upload a pic of it ?

thanks

I just adjusted the brass TE's idle screw to get a nice speed that will idle cold & not be too high when hot, similar to setting the rotating TC knob as Tinken mentioned.

The guide I made was actually the nozzle for a silicon tube, trimmed so it wouldn't foul on anything once all in place.
Basically, you want to centre the throttle spring and DEFIANTLY not have it foul & or jam up, obviously. (Don't have a pic, sorry)

 

[9880sts]

One thing thou i got. When i stall the bike with Compression and i hit the Start button right away, it won't start. i have to crank for ages and if i turn the throttle just a tiny bit, it just spits and does nothing. I have to push the STOP button once and hit start and it will do it.

What can i do to get that under Control ??

Cheers.

Mine does the same thing too from time to time, but always has.
It has always needed throttle after a stall (not normal for an EFI system) but does start up.
My last ride I stalled the bike myself - as in NOT a flameout - & still had to crank it with some throttle to make it fire, so no change there.


The restarting has been much better since fitting the Lithium battery, it cranks over much quick & is easier to start (Also saves 1.5 kg of weight too).[/quote]


ok.. BAttery comes tomorrow.

Thanks

 

[Dangermouse449]

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Where can i find the TC Idle adjustment procedure ??? or any pictures of it. I got no info what so ever?

thanks

Any factory info on Husky bikes for our market are avail. at http://www.husqvarnamotorcycles.com.au/ under the heading 'Support', just choose your model & year.

You can look up other years of the same models to compare part numbers or procedures in the manuals & catalogs.

 

[9880sts]

i already checked the TE throttle body 2011 and 12/13. both the same. its in the Software.
Tomorrow i am on the bike and cant actually wait to get out.

 

[9880sts]

so i was out with the bike and yes , it is like a completely different bike.... Not a single flame out. The bike is snappier and pull's even harder. Now when u drive along, you actually can lift the Front over a puddle without a big struggle.
Plus installing a 180cca Lithium battery , the hot start issue is pretty much gone with that. Now when u stall under Compression, and hit the Start button, the ENgine starts right away. No cranking and cranking....

RESUME>>>>>>>>>>>> WHo ever came up with such a Crap double flap System and smooth Power should have been fired right away........

Thanks to DAngermousse449.

 

[Lon]

So 9880sts, you just removed the second butterfly only?

 

[9880sts]

So 9880sts, you just removed the second butterfly only?

Yes, only the second butterfly is gone. It is so much more fun now.

For the Engine Braking, i will remove parts on monday.

Butterfly removed, Bypass screw 2 1/2 turns out and just a tiny bit more.

better battery. makes starting much easier.

And a TPS Sensor CAlibration.

Just open the Airbox, don't remove the whole Airbox. loosen up the Hoseclamp and pull out the Intake hose. easy and quick. You r done within 15 min.

what u get is a Bike with much more Grunt.

When u remove the Butterfly, keep a Magnet beside the screwdriver , just to make sure u dont drop the little Screws ...

 

[danny318]

Do you just remove the butterfly or do you have to mess with the throttle cables as well?

 

[HusqRacr]

Sounds like my weekend just got a little busier. I never really realized how much the inconsistent engine braking was and the delay when trying to loft over a whoop or something. I've just learned to accept it..until now

 

[Motosportz]

very interesting. While my bike runs hard and very good I am interested in this mod as it makes sense. Keep it coming.

 

[9880sts]

Sounds like my weekend just got a little busier. I never really realized how much the inconsistent engine braking was and the delay when trying to loft over a whoop or something. I've just learned to accept it..until now

when i was reading that flame outs become less with more KM onnthe meter, i thought ok then. But now i realised that you only adjust your style of riding to the bike. you know uphill the bike maybe flames out , so you throttle differently. Yesterday as i was out, i was completely free of that. You dont have to worry about it.

 

[9880sts]

Do you just remove the butterfly or do you have to mess with the throttle cables as well?

Yes only the Butterfly itself. Leave the Shaft in there...

 

[danny318]

thats what she said

 

[Dangermouse449]

Just open the Airbox, don't remove the whole Airbox. loosen up the Hoseclamp and pull out the Intake hose. easy and quick. You r done within 15 min.

what u get is a Bike with much more Grunt.

When u remove the Butterfly, keep a Magnet beside the screwdriver , just to make sure u dont drop the little Screws ...[/quote] - Good tip!


When you guys are doing these jobs, be 100% sure you have the rubber air-ram to the throttle body re-sealed back into the air-filter housing. (See pic)
There is a pair of lips that seal inside & outside the housing.
Obviously if it isn't in correctly it will leak dust into the engine!!

Glad someone else is finding this mod useful too

 

[9880sts]

Just open the Airbox, don't remove the whole Airbox. loosen up the Hoseclamp and pull out the Intake hose. easy and quick. You r done within 15 min.

what u get is a Bike with much more Grunt.

When u remove the Butterfly, keep a Magnet beside the screwdriver , just to make sure u dont drop the little Screws ...

- Good tip!


When you guys are doing these jobs, be 100% sure you have the rubber air-ram to the throttle body re-sealed back into the air-filter housing. (See pic)
There is a pair of lips that seal inside & outside the housing.
Obviously if it isn't in correctly it will leak dust into the engine!!

Glad someone else is finding this mod useful too

View attachment 39360[/quote]

Hey Dangermousse,
i reckon this modification will be soon in many TE 449 and 511's.

All we want is grunt .... forward movement and front wheels popped when we twist the throttle.

We dont ride on Ice to ask for smooth power...

And thanks, i never really realised that the Trip meter went to 0 after some Engine restart. The Bigger LITHIUM Battery was another huge improvement.

 

[Dangermouse449]

True, but what can I say, I'm a mechanic & like to fix things

On the note of the PCVs, how do they 'see' load & revs etc?
As I see it (And correct me if I'm wrong), don't they only connect to the injector wire?
Revs come from the injector pulse, I guess, but surely it must be hard for the PCV to know exactly what the load (throttle settings) are from just pulse width???
The pulse width can change according to throttle setting, engine temp, air temp etc....MAP sensor output in most efi set-ups (but doesn't look like it on TEs)
Must be a fair bit of maths going on in there.

Tinken,

This web image is what made me think the PCV had only the injector connector.

As I'm aware now, it is much smarter than this.

 

[Dangermouse449]

Glad someone else is finding this mod useful too

View attachment 39360[/quote]

Hey Dangermousse,
i reckon this modification will be soon in many TE 449 and 511's.

All we want is grunt .... forward movement and front wheels popped when we twist the throttle.

We dont ride on Ice to ask for smooth power....

And thanks, i never really realised that the Trip meter went to 0 after some Engine restart. The Bigger LITHIUM Battery was another huge improvement.[/quote]



Great to hear, I never met a horse-power I didn't like!! lol.

Yeah, with regards to the trip meter, until I fitted the new battery, I'd never had it measure a full ride before.

I can finally now see how many km I get for a given amount of fuel. We ride fairly rough country, so an 80-100 km ride is about it for a tank.

It is handy to know if you're going to need fuel.

After I worked out it was a voltage drop,I opened up the speedo ages ago, but didn't pursue it.

It looks like they were going to put in a back-up battery system, but didn't for some reason.

Someone else can have a crack at it if they like