• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

I'm still having issues so I've also completed the mod as per the OP, come on weekend, hurry up so I can test it out! :D
 
If your running Map 3 is there any problem if I run 20 miles down the road? Are the high revs plus the map 3 an issue or just issue for the emissions?
 
michiganguy said:
If your running Map 3 is there any problem if I run 20 miles down the road? Are the high revs plus the map 3 an issue or just issue for the emissions?
Click to expand...

I think you are asking if sustained high RPM whist running Map 3 (assuming mode B) is an issue. The answer is no, if anything running Mode B of Map set #3 is better for your engine, given its richer A/F ratio. Yes, Mode A is for emissions and leans the engine out quite a bit.
 
When I had my 511 I remember posing the question of removing the top butterfly then Tinken said bad idea. Glad it's working out for those who did this mod. Not sure who blazed the path here . Seen 24 or so pages so I just had to click on this one. No surprise here. :)
 
Rearwheelin said:
When I had my 511 I remember posing the question of removing the top butterfly then Tinken said bad idea. Glad it's working out for those who did this mod. Not sure who blazed the path here . Seen 24 or so pages so I just had to click on this one. No surprise here. :)
Click to expand...


Check out page 1 of the post :)

Tinken said it was a bad idea as he had personal experience with having damaged a TE throttle body motor & didn't want people to suffer the pain of having to buy expensive parts if they made a mistake. He also talks to Husqvarna, so explaining why people are pulling parts out of bikes they built could be awkward.
All good & fair judgement.

It also makes no sense that the mapping still works on the near standard bikes like mine (just the Arka slip-on), but work it DOES and works well.
Anecdotal evidence suggests there are a few dealers over here in Aus that have done this on their race bikes also & got good results.
For the guys that have a little more done to their bike, a piggyback ecu AND the butterfly removal together is great by all accounts.

For a zero dollar mod, it has transformed my bike from unrideable (literally) to 'can't wait until the next ride'!! :thumbsup:
 
Dangermouse449 said:
Check out page 1 of the post :)

Tinken said it was a bad idea as he had personal experience with having damaged a TE throttle body motor & didn't want people to suffer the pain of having to buy expensive parts if they made a mistake. He also talks to Husqvarna, so explaining why people are pulling parts out of bikes they built could be awkward.
All good & fair judgement.

It also makes no sense that the mapping still works on the near standard bikes like mine (just the Arka slip-on), but work it DOES and works well.
Anecdotal evidence suggests there are a few dealers over here in Aus that have done this on their race bikes also & got good results.
For the guys that have a little more done to their bike, a piggyback ecu AND the butterfly removal together is great by all accounts.

For a zero dollar mod, it has transformed my bike from unrideable (literally) to 'can't wait until the next ride'!! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...



cant wait either for next ride.... agreed and nuf said.****************************************!!
 
N4544D said:
I think you are asking if sustained high RPM whist running Map 3 (assuming mode B) is an issue. The answer is no, if anything running Mode B of Map set #3 is better for your engine, given its richer A/F ratio. Yes, Mode A is for emissions and leans the engine out quite a bit.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the answer!!
 
Dangermouse449 said:
The primary TPS is on the right side below the bulky fly-by-wire idle motor. It has one Torx screw in a slotted hole for adjustment. On my bike, swinging the plug end upward very slightly smoothed the idle & fixed the flameouts. If you move it too far, the engine will cut, you can move it back from there & restart & adjust again.

I've been able to mess with my air bypass screw (air) & TPS (fuel)to get a smooth idle around 1900/2000 rpm. On mine the air screw is at 3 1/4 turns out from full in.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will try that. I am kind of surprised such an important sensor like the TPS is in such an open location and is plastic secured with a single screw. Seeing as these bikes are designed for use over rough ground I'd have thought the TPS would be more securely fastened. I mean what are the chances the TPS could move a hair while the bike is being caned over bumpy ground? [/sarcasm]

I don't have a tach so accurately setting an idle is gonna be difficult. My air screw is the recommended 2.5 turns out. When the weather improves I am gonna play with it and see what effect it has on the A/F numbers.
 
Dangermouse449 said:
Sounds like it mate.
Tinken has mentioned TXCs have different maps.
The mod may not suit it by the sound of it.

That said, it is only air & fuel, it should be able to be tuned out but trial & error tuning is hard without being able to measure the results.
Click to expand...


THIS is why I got an A/F gauge. Without you are just guessing.

I also have one on my WR and once I decided to actually get the tuner sorted I discovered that the tune numbers everyone on the inter webs were accepting as gospel were actually way off. For the most part those numbers were too lean at the bottom end and way too rich at the top end. The controller settings that gave me A/F numbers in the 12-13 range ended up being mostly zero's with only the bottom end requiring any extra fuel.
 
danny318 said:
Is a flame out not by definition a 'stall caused by an overly lean mixture' ? If you are rich, then perhaps the stalling is something else? I know I easily mistook my own poor clutch work for 'flame out' when I first started riding (and reading), especially with the stock tall gearing.
Click to expand...


Off the top of my head I don't remember the A/F number for my bike at idle but IIRC it is not lean. I get flameouts when the throttle is cracked. It takes virtually no input to the throttle and the engine instantly stops.
 
Suputin said:
Off the top of my head I don't remember the A/F number for my bike at idle but IIRC it is not lean. I get flameouts when the throttle is cracked. It takes virtually no input to the throttle and the engine instantly stops.
Click to expand...
Agreed.
On my own bike, JUST off idle, there is a hole in the fuel map.
Like someone forgot to put some data in a box there!
Was there before all my mods, masked now after & doesn't stall/flameout now.
 
Suputin said:
THIS is why I got an A/F gauge. Without you are just guessing.

I also have one on my WR and once I decided to actually get the tuner sorted I discovered that the tune numbers everyone on the inter webs were accepting as gospel were actually way off. For the most part those numbers were too lean at the bottom end and way too rich at the top end. The controller settings that gave me A/F numbers in the 12-13 range ended up being mostly zero's with only the bottom end requiring any extra fuel.
Click to expand...

Been building a kit meter, but not getting enough time yo finish it off :(
Might just buy one & be done with it....
 
Dangermouse449 said:
The primary TPS is on the right side below the bulky fly-by-wire idle motor. It has one Torx screw in a slotted hole for adjustment. On my bike, swinging the plug end upward very slightly smoothed the idle & fixed the flameouts. If you move it too far, the engine will cut, you can move it back from there & restart & adjust again.

View attachment 41625
Click to expand...


I tried adjusting the TPS today. Once I worked out which way to move it, it def seems to have made a difference to the idle. Moving the TPS up slightly seemed to smooth out the idle and even increased the idle speed slightly. I need to get the bike out and ride it now. I guess I should do a TPS reset as well.
 
I wouldn't do the TPS reset myself.
It is the new value that the ecu is seeing they I believe helps, not sure if it will revert or help?!?
Haven't tried it as yet myself, but at least on my own bike, it never used to make any change to the running.
 
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