• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

My 2c

I live at 5000ft in NM. Most of the riding I do is 2nd and 3rd gear rocky and sandy single track, 2011 txc449 with JD.

I removed the butterfly. First trip out after the mod, every time I opened the throttle quickly from idle the bike would flame out. My bike didn't have this issue before. It also idled rough after removing the butterfly.

Got home and made a very minor adjustment to the air bleed screw to increase the idle speed. No adjustments to JD settings. Since then I haven't been able to replicate the flame out issue, despite trying a lot. I went from flame out very time I opened the throttle quickly to no flame outs just with the air screw adjustment. The throttle response does seem snappier but not to the extent that my bike is more rideable. I'm considering putting the butterfly back in since I'm unsure if my air bleed screw adjustment has any other impact.

Would appreciate feedback on the impact of the air screw adjustment.


Great feedback, thanks. :thumbsup:
 
how did you seal the ends up ?

See my post a few pages back. If you have air space above the water (so there is a section of header above the water on both ends) you really don't need to seal the ends. The cold air freezes the surface of the water first, creating a bit of a plug. Then as the water trapped between the ends freezes, it expands outwards instead of upwards because it's sealed by the ends.

In my case, I did my steel header, one time in the freezer got it near perfect. Only the deepest dent was still there, but barely noticeable. Two times would have been the best but I waited too long on the project and had to get it back on the bike for my up-coming ride.
 
My 2c

I live at 5000ft in NM. Most of the riding I do is 2nd and 3rd gear rocky and sandy single track, 2011 txc449 with JD.

I removed the butterfly. First trip out after the mod, every time I opened the throttle quickly from idle the bike would flame out. My bike didn't have this issue before. It also idled rough after removing the butterfly.

Got home and made a very minor adjustment to the air bleed screw to increase the idle speed. No adjustments to JD settings. Since then I haven't been able to replicate the flame out issue, despite trying a lot. I went from flame out very time I opened the throttle quickly to no flame outs just with the air screw adjustment. The throttle response does seem snappier but not to the extent that my bike is more rideable. I'm considering putting the butterfly back in since I'm unsure if my air bleed screw adjustment has any other impact.

Would appreciate feedback on the impact of the air screw adjustment.


I'd go back to just slightly (1/8 - 1/2 extra) over spec'd adjustment on the air screw. Spec, I think, is 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 out. And use your JD to bump up the idle (green + blue setting) richness a little. And bump up the JD accelerator pump (red + blue setting) to almost the top. I have my red/blue set to #6.5 or 7. No flame out. Nice quick idle. Only problem I'm having is that it's running rough on the low end. I.e. at 5% throttle, cruising in 2nd/3rd.
 
Anyone ever try this on a 2 stroke pipe? Will that work or split the seams?

I haven't tried it on a 2T, but when I was reading up on how to do it, I saw that some guys did their 2Ts this way. I also saw the guy on youtube who almost killed himself by heating his 2T pipe up to a nice blazing red/orange color then adding air pressure directly from an air compressor. The thing popped sending red-hot metal flying, and the header shot out of his hand, spinning, and hit the wall next to him. That's why I chose to try the freeze method. :thumbsup:
 
We have a special fixture and use compressed air. We can even remove dents in Titanium. Better to ass pipe protectors and not get the dents in the first place.

Yea, what ever you do, think twice before using a torch at home. Send it to Tinken if you are even thinking about doing that. It'll be cheaper than having the emergency room pull out the molten shrapnel.
 
I haven't tried it on a 2T, but when I was reading up on how to do it, I saw that some guys did their 2Ts this way. I also saw the guy on youtube who almost killed himself by heating his 2T pipe up to a nice blazing red/orange color then adding air pressure directly from an air compressor. The thing popped sending red-hot metal flying, and the header shot out of his hand, spinning, and hit the wall next to him. That's why I chose to try the freeze method. :thumbsup:


Exactly why I will never do this myself. I do have a local friend that does it. Just thought the thinner 2 stroke pipe might pop out EZ with the freeze method.
 
Can any australians here recommend any good preferably local places I could order a pcv from ? I'm looking at them online and have no other options other then from the states.
 
Anyone ever try this on a 2 stroke pipe? Will that work or split the seams?

Motosportz my local bike shop mates have tryed it on a 2 stroke pipe and it did work bearing in mind the pipe is a little thinner. I have also used compressed air and a little heat on these and that worked as to much heat would cause the metal to stretch.
 
do the pcv and fbw throttle removle work hand in hand or is it suggested that I replace the throttle plate when I install my pvc ?
 
The PCV would a great way to tune out any lean or rich points if you have any after the butterfly mod.

Tinken is working on a map for this on modded bikes. (Ones with more flow, open exhaust, head etc...)

If not heavily modified, just a slip on, you might be lucky like my own bike & be able to have it all work with just Map 3 & adjusting the TPS sensor....
 
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