’13 TE511
Engine Mods:
Race map 3
PCV running Zip-ty Burson FB with richened up low RPM mix
FMF with silent insert (not very silent)
Self-modified, opened up airbox
Stock gearing
And now, removal of the FBW, secondary butterfly (20 minute, free modification).
When I first started the bike after removal of the butterfly I was scared. I blipped the throttle and it bogged. “OH NO!”… I disconnected the positive battery terminal for 20 minutes then hooked it all back up. It wasn't until the following morning that I was able to take it out for a full test ride. The initial cold start up still had a very slight bog. I let it warm up idling then off for a test. The bog was very short lived and disappeared completely after warm up.
Throttle response was dramatically improved. I don't think I can overstate it. Regardless of gear, regardless of RPM, regardless of throttle opening the bike shot forward with more authority than it ever had. There wasn’t a single hint of poor “carburetion” at any engine speed. Prior to removal of the butterfly, I had cured the flameout problem 99% with the PCV. Every once in a while it would stall; less than once every-other 2 hour ride, but there was always a hint of it and the possibility of flameout was always on my mind. With the butterfly removal, there wasn’t even a hint-of-a-possibility of a flameout. In testing it, I could ride in 3rd gear at very low speed, wack the throttle open and it would launch forward like a supercross bike pivoting out of a hairpin turn right before an 80’ triple. No hesitation, just hard acceleration. It reminded me of increase of low end power that some have described after installing an FMF megabomb header (which I don’t have… yet.)
Theory: #1
At least part of the flameout problem with the TE’s is momentary poor coordination of the two butterflies. I don’t doubt that it’s “lean fueling” at very low RMP but I suspect it’s caused, at least in part, by the two butterflies not playing well together at those low RPMs.
Theory: #2
The initial bog I was getting with the cold engine is a product of richening up the PCV at low RPMs in order to avoid flameouts at low engine speed. If #1 is correct, I should be able to dial back the rich setting of the PCV and still avoid flameouts. As I’m writing, the engine is still warm from my 2 hour test ride so I’ll have to update on that later.
Theory #3
Cheep, small amounts of auto parts store penstriping can personalize a bike just fine.